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Was in a rush to just finish off the stain on my maple top. Did not check for glue, spots, tried to hack out the veneer and match colour with timber mate as had no luck with goof off technique, sanded through spots, etc.
Attached is the result. What should I do from here, paint? Where I've dug out the spots are quite deep. It's worse than I could capture.
Took my time on the back and it turned out quite nice :( so very upset.
https://imgur.com/a/sp8W7cJ
Try and find a blue sharpie marking pen the same colour so that you can cover the white lines and once dry apply top coats.
Cheers, Waz
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The problem is they're quite deep and irregular. I thought about just cutting a thin even strip then filling with coloured timber filler or painting pin stripe for the centre? Could be a disaster.Quote:
Originally Posted by wazkelly
For some of the marks I think the sharpie or even pencil ideas I've heard sound good. Either way I don't think I'll get a great result in the end.
I've also found that when applied a permanent marker colours can change alot aka black turns a sort of purple.
Picture to save using the link:
https://i.imgur.com/mpFaYev.jpg
I've touched up finish blemishes with Sharpies. On top of a finish you get less variation in colour than on straight wood, but sometimes you need to bend a couple of colours and also use your fingers to smear out the ink to blend it in. If it looks awful, then naptha/lighter fluid (not lighter gas) on a cloth is good for removing the ink, though without any finish on the wood, it may well remove some stain as well.
I've also used acrylic paints to try and match finish colours. It's not easy, as the wet colour never looks the same as the dry, but it's a lot easier to mix paint than Sharpie ink.
Symmetry is also important in making it look natural, so if you end up with a slightly darker spot on one side, try and reproduce it on the other.
Good advice there from Simon.
It would be handy to know what you used for the stain? Water based or Spirit based?
Sorry to hear about your troubles. Before you decide how to deal with this you need to decide how much work you're willing to do. Sharpie would be the easiest and you might be satisfied with the result. Maybe you can get creative and add other colors to the top in a haphazard fashion. It might look really cool! Painting over it would certainly have the most potential for a great result and also the most work.
Been away for a while. I filled the gouges with natural timber mate sanded it smooth. I applied the same mixture of acrylic stamp ink with in water, using a cotton rag with moderate pressure as before.
To my suprise about 90% of the timber mate came off leaving me back at square one. I'm scratching my head as to why this happened??
Timbermate is water-based and water-soluble. So adding more water is going to soften it. Add even more and it will come away as a slurry.
Maybe it's not really sticking because of the glue in the wood prevents it grabbing the surface of the wood. The same reason the stain isn't taking.
Makes sense.Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
Would getting some sealer in there help adhesion? Or I I could try a pure ink/less dilute stain but then I would have to blend it with the rest of the body. Not quite sure at this point.
I would have a go at doing Timber mate filling the crack, leave for at least 24 hours to fully cure & dry out before sanding back, then leave for another few days.
If the moisture/water content is too high when applying stain over timbermate it will rehydrate and turn to crap real fast.
There are a couple of ideas to contemplate:
1. very light, almost dry dabbing stain on with a small square of cotton - this may require a few attempts to allow each application to fully dry out.
2. use stain as the liquid required to turn firm timbermate into a filler slurry of the desired colour - you may need to be a couple of shades darker that what you think is necessary. If it turns out a fraction darker that stlll does the job of hiding light coloured veneer joins.
Cheers, Waz
I have no good answers. I'd either just try colouring as previously suggested, then fill in with whatever clear finish you're using, or else try again but use a solvent-based grain filler that won't be affected by the water in the stain.
Using water based stains with Timber Mate is very challenging but if you want the filler to absorb some colour there aren't too many other choices.
Probably best to dye the timbermate first before applying it.
I can't imagine it would. (wood??? ;)) Typically bonding to timber is best achieved with clean natural fibres exposed. It would be akin to trying to glue two pieces of painted timber together.Quote:
Would getting some sealer in there help adhesion?
This won't help with your adhesion issue, but since your stamp ink is water based, you can also use it to tint the Timbermate prior to application.