AG-2 first kit build

Thought I'd share my build progress here. Got this kit extra cheap with an ebay auction. Wasn't really planning on a new guitar but the price was right. :)

This is my first kit build. I do have a neck through guitar that I built from scratch some years ago with my dad. That guitar is full of issues. I'm hoping that this kit will be good practice for fixing my earlier project properly too.

I'm not planning anything too drastic. A little shaping of the body. Spray paint to finish the body and some sort of clear finish on the neck I think.

Questions:
Are the stock humbuckers ok? I'm considering getting a pair of gfs mean 90s instead.
Recommendations for an easy clear finish for the neck?
Any common pitfalls or anything I need to watch for with this kit in particular? https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...4623b860e5.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...36c9891a35.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...0d4b725b07.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...6096515e8f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...da5aaffe62.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...1701d32ff4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b54c0293c1.jpg

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Noice, love the reshaping. I’d build with the stock pups to start, until you figure out what it is you want from the guitar, then go chasing tone or output or options. They’re not fantastic pups, but they aren’t that bad.

I'm enjoying it so far. Your pickup advice sounds like a sensible way forward.

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FW's right, the pups are easy to swap out later without any mods.

nice bevel though, I think getting the bevel on an SG's a bit of a task.

I do a lot of thinking about what I want from the guitar whilst sanding, sanding and sanding.

Have you done a mock build yet. I think the most important thing at the start is to put all the bits (kind of) together (don't put the bridge and saddle posts in though) and make sure its all there, straight and the scale length is right.

If anything is off, its important to do any fix up mods at the start, rather than finding out at the end.

I have had a look and made sure everything is present and accounted for. Only thing missing was the pitbull decal. Will have to have another read of instructions and check scale. Thanks!

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Looks like the little fella can’t wait to make a start.

Looks good so far. I found cylindrical shaped blocks great for shaping the bevels in the cut away’s. You could also using some dowel with sand paper wrapped around it.

That looks great so far! I agree with the lots of sanding option. As said, the stock pickups, particularly the humbuckers, are pretty good and easy to swap later. I put a set of tonerider AC2 in my SG (link to build thread below). These to my ears sound totally authentic and warm. But I was after something specific and had saved my pocket money.

Btw, before gluing the neck make sure then neck centre line runs through the centre of the bridge post holes

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Andyxlh

Btw, before gluing the neck make sure then neck centre line runs through the centre of the bridge post holes

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Wholeheartedly recommend this :o

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Andyxlh

Btw, before gluing the neck make sure then neck centre line runs through the centre of the bridge post holes

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Looks like a bolt-on neck but still a relevant point to check how things line up before you get too far advanced, just in case modes are required.

The bevel work looks great.

Cheers, Waz

Having another look at the pictures indeed it does look like a bolt on! Oops.......😀

Thanks for all the encouragement and advice so far. Feeling pretty positive about it at this stage. Have done the dry build now. Everything sitting pretty nicely.
I did have trouble getting the stop bar tailpiece to go on the posts but five minutes of gentle file work sorted that.

I used the outside string method to get the (bolt-on, yes) neck situated in the pocket properly and drilled three holes as the fourth was covered by the clamp.

My boys are pretty interested and I'm making good progress this weekend as my wife's away with the other two. Strike while the iron is hot etc.

Progress shots bellow. [emoji106]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...92bd477ba4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...439a3b9067.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...e4385632be.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5eb27d949e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ae2310eda9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d39b1cd72e.jpg

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Nice work with the masking tape for the posts. I use plastic tubing from the big green shed when mock building and checking the neck seat.

Quick update. I believe I'm sanded up to painting stage. I've bought a dark forest green colour which my eldest boy picked for me. I also decided to do a little shaping of the headstock to follow the feel of the bevelled body (if not the shape). Feel like the rest should come together soon if I can get some extra time during daylight. Fun so far. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...355d475fb1.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...fd689ad6ab.jpg

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Forgive my terrible low light phone photos.

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Two coats of primer. There's a spot on the front where the grain seems to have stood up a bit. I guess just careful sanding there will sort that.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...218bd69816.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5386029ef1.jpg

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Looking good!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by brisboy

Two coats of primer. There's a spot on the front where the grain seems to have stood up a bit. I guess just careful sanding there will sort that.

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Totally normal spraying wood. It's actually good as the paint will 'wick' into the wood and create a good bond. Just sand it back and continue.

I actually think primer/undercoat is a bit unnecessary on wood, apart from helping to fill the grain a bit. The main reason to use a primer/undercoat system is to get the top coats to stick, usually to metal or plastic. Because wood is so porous the paint really soaks in, so I don't really see the point. I've previously done just straight automotive clear on wood and it's fine. You just need to gradually build up the paint thickness so you can sand it back and polish.

Cool. I'm ok with a bit of overkill. Nice to know that's a sign the paint is bonding properly.

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Question for the experts. I've given the bridge mount holes, control holes and tuner holes a couple of coats of primer to seal them; do I mask them off before spraying coloured coats? And if the answer's yes, how?

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I am no expert but...

I don't usually seal the bridge mount holes or spray them, the post bushings are a really tight fit so, what ever you put in there you may need to sand them out later. I would mask them off by cutting a bit of sponge and stuffing in down into the post holes (PS I do this with F holes too - remember that for you next hollow body build)

I prefer them raw and put parrafin wax in them. Its really just to stop the water getting in there and swelling underneath the paint job when you are wet sanding. Also the parrafin wax helps to pull the post bushings back out .....when you make a mistake....which sometimes happens......;)

Excellent. Thanks Andy. I'll have to find some sponge.

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First colour coat on. I let my eldest pick the colour so it was always going to be green, ha ha. A bit thick on the headstock but nice and thin on the body. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...38d9968438.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...57496f4b5b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...7d349e4144.jpg

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This is shaping up really well. I like the subtle bevel on the headstock to match the body - which you've also absolutely nailed. SGs just don't look the part without it.

Thanks! I'm not super convinced by my spray painting so far but I'll take my time.

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