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Fairly happy with the RC-1 even though it's still not quite complete yet.
Yahoo, and the Mossie has arrived. I actualy ordered this one 1st, and as it was going to be a bit of a wait for it to arrive, and also a strange hankering for a semi-accoustic, I decided to try the RC-1 as a practice run.
Going to keep the Mossie build as simple as possible. Stoked that my better half has offered to help with the painting !
Cheers folks !
Even though the Ricky is still a couple of steps off completion, I've made a start on the mozzie. Like those gone before, I've reshaped the head and looked closely at the screw hole spacing for the neck, as this seems to be a problem spot.
Like other posts, I see the holes don't line up with the backing plate very well. I can live with that. But I have a real concern about the backing plate being wider than the body!!
It's a little hard to see in the photo but the plate overhangs the sides of the body.
Just wondering if anyone else has seen and overcome this? https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c03014c236.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...322b835928.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a9f1c2fe60.jpg
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I'd ditch the backing plate and just use the metal neck plate. It's what Fender and almost all other bolt-on neck manufacturers do. You want the neck held hard to the body, and placing a piece of soft plastic/rubber in between the plate and the body can only add some compliance to the joint, which isn't really what you want.
Plus, you really don't want it going over the side of the heel.
Thanks Simon.
I'm finding that even the plate on it's own, is just slightly wider than the heel. The heel is slightly rounded on those edges.
If I sand down beyond the rounded edge, making the corners square, then there might be a less visible gap. Additionally I can file the edges of the plate slightly.. That might help as well..
It sounds a bit drastic, but it's only going to need half a mm or so, I think.Sent from my D6653 using TapatalkQuote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
What's the neck fit like?
I really like your headstock design!
Hi Simon, been away from the forum for a while. Neck fit is really loose!!. I'm going to have to make some shims to firm it up. Lots of side to side movement...Sent from my D6653 using TapatalkQuote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
Thanks Try. It's a bit shorter and fatter than the real thing, but the vibe is there. ;-)Sent from my D6653 using TapatalkQuote:
Originally Posted by trv
Nice to see another Mossie on the go, I haven't checked the back plate alignment on mine yet, thanks for pointing out a possible minor issue.
Haven't put any time into this for ages but saw mosriteslab was finding all the same head scratching issues as me.
I too went down the moslike roller bridge path and will opt to dowel the factory holes and redrill. I have to anyway because the holes are too big even for the factory supplied ToM bridge.
Originally I was going to go with a wraparound.
My neck fit is really loose. I've just this arvo made some shims to glue into place tomorrow.
I've decided to fully assemble the beast and make it playable before finishing the body work. I don't want to risk having to redo the finnish if I need to move something. Bridge holes, stop holes. Neck to body holes etc.
I'll be in a better position to grapple with nut slots then too.
There's quite a lot to this build, surprisingly.
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Happy with my shims and neck fit is snug as! now. (Needs a firm hand to push it into the pocket now, and it seats admirably firmly but still removably).
Going to pick up some 12mm dowel from Bunnings, for the bridge post holes today.
Decision made, I'm definitely going with the roller bridge, and mounting it vertically as opposed to offset.
Still out to lunch regarding using a Moslike trem, or just keeping it simple and going with the stock To'M stop.
Feels good to be on the move again with this project.
that's a pretty common toss the black plastic its not needed as Simon said you could re dowel the hole and re drill it that's what i do once it bolted up you wont see it you can get 4mm-5mm dowel from a hobby shop they use it as wooden ship model masts
All warts and glory. Well... More warts than glory atmo, but getting there! More work needed on B and G nut slots and some remedial work required to hide an errant drill hole. Luckily, I have mastered this dowel plugging gig!
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Updating the build diary. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5814c4e7ca.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...e5b19291f2.jpg
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Twas a busy day. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...769939cf06.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5f433c2229.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ac4c05fa0b.jpg
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Hopefully enough polishing will fill the crack https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d0d1d0c2b3.jpg
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Wiring complete and working. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a8979dea47.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...9b20546900.jpg
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In pieces again, to start the finnish. Neck first. In gloss jarrah.
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I see you've dowelled and re-sited the bridge posts, presumable as they were slightly out of line with the roller bridge ? I wasn't going to bother but with the anniversary of Johnny's death last Saturday lots of photos kept appearing on social media. It was only then I noticed that the stop on his white guitar is a lot further back, past the lead jack socket. I've decided to put mine there too and also take the opportunity to check the bridge posts now I've screwed the neck on as it appears to be about 1mm out of square when measured from the last fret. They're also a little bit loose.
Yes. I had to dowel the bridge posts too. They were really loose. Too loose to use as they were. Have decided to go without a trem. But am changing the pickups to 2 x humbuckers. So making a new scratch plate to suit. Also had to dowel a hole I put through the back... Oops. Long funny story.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mosrite Slab
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well... after much stagnation (and some distraction by the IB-1S) and still tinkering the 'Ricky, I have finaly made some good progress with the Mossie ...
The two holdups were, How to finish the body... Solved now... plain gloss black ! no fancy designs here !
the second issue was, I decided to swap out the stock HB and SC pickups to 2 x HB... (Tonerider Rocksongs)
This in turn meant I needed to make a new scratch plate.
After destroying the first two attempts I decided to let things rest a while, and put energy elsewhere.
last weekend I had a good jolt and my 3rd scratch plate attempt came out OK...
I'm now up to cutting the rectangular holes for for the new pickups.
Also buffed and polished the body, and fitted the bridge and saddle posts, and neck along with the new Diadario locking + auto trimming tuners.
Feels like I'm nearly there !
Attachment 29178
OMG - I love my new buffer !
Attachment 29179
Yes.. those are my feet !
Attachment 29180
Oh...AND I even remembered the earth wire this time !!!
Finished the scratch plate last night and have done a test mounting/fitting...
Attachment 29196
failed on the decal (red on black... not a good color choice for DIY decals), and resorted to making a sticker instead....
Attachment 29197
Strap locks, wiring and intonation next !
Well the Mossie has come up a treat !
It's very different to play compared to the Ricky330.
I put Dimarzio locking / auto trimming tuners in the head, and they work great ! But they are heavy !!
The nylon guitar strap I used for this one will swap out for a leather one, hopefully to help stop it tilting forward when you let the neck go.
It may have been a mistake to use a 'Moslike' bridge as the arch of the strings is quite apparent. Also seem to be getting a 'buzzing' noise with the strings, which I think might be related to strings at the zero fret.
Just going to play it as is for now, and when the strings come off next, I'll have another go at deepening the nut slots.
I did have two pretty major issues with the finish !
So happy was I with the silky slick shiny smooth finish...
Then...
[1] when I hammered the bridge and stop posts in... ouch. Enough stress on the wood between the two top posts and the two bottom posts, that the beautiful slick black finish developed stress cracks after a few days. [perhaps should have re-drilled the holes a little bigger ]
[2] a couple of holes developed swelling under the finish around them - mostly hidden under the scratch plate ! [wet sanding too wet]
[3] about two weeks later random cracks appeared elsewhere in the finish. (I think this is called 'checking') and may have been due to either the massive temp. fluctuations we had as I was finishing the finish.. or even heat build up from the buffer.
I can't control the temps. as I try to finish the 'Nez off, but I am planning on NOT using the buffer when I cut and polish. Also not going to wet sand, just very lightly dry sand and try to be real careful !
Like they say 'all you can do is try' ...
and if at first you don't succeed... there's always TV and beer !
Yeah, black is a really hard colour to do well, so live and learn. Otherwise, it looks like a weapon, these are a cool looking kit.
Buzzing might be on the TOM style bridge. The one in my SG/AG build rattles and buzzes a fair bit. It's scheduled for an upgrade as it annoys the crap out of me. But lowering the nut slots seems sensible if you think its coming from that end.
Nice work wcieslik. Black is hard to get all the scratches out. you got a pic of the new buffer? what kind is it?
Very nice but that decal would knock you out of GTOM, just putting it out thereQuote:
Originally Posted by wcieslik
Thanks Dave,
Out of curiosity, decal too cheesy, or too badly applied ?
Thanks Sonic,
I did wonder about the bridge, (and even the saddles, as there heaps of moving parts on the roller bridge)..
In relation to the paint 'checking', I made a small experiment with the Mibanez yesterday, and tried a small short buffing (with the buffer). Nowhere near as firmly or as long as I did on the Mossie... the surface temperature result was surprising! The buffed area was considerably hotter (not just warm), than the surrounding, untouched, areas. I think this rapid heating and cooling is what led to the paint cracking ! (Lesson learned !)
Hey, some people actually pay for this 'aged' effect !
Hi andy,
Just the std One Plus 18v ryobi from Bunnings...
https://2ecffd01e1ab3e9383f0-07db7b9...b89ee59705.jpg
Worked great, although I now question the use of it due to heat build up ....
(I didn't go lighly with the use of it ! )
One of the cardinal guidelines on logos is that you don't apply an actual brand name logo, it's a deal breaker for GOTM.Quote:
Originally Posted by wcieslik
Looking at it i think you've emulated the style of the original (circled M logo, with text after) it lacks the "Mosrite" name and the "of California" tag line, but the M in a circle is the brand identity alongside the actual guitar shape.
I would consider it an "homage" to the original but under a strict interpretation of the rules for GOTM, I think Dave may have a point. you'd need to get a ruling from an admin (Brendan, Adam are you listening?) before you submitted it for GOTM they may allow it or they may consider it too close and rule it out.
Best to check, send them a hi res close up of the logo/head stock and let them decide.
Oops...
This might be too close to the bone too then ...
Attachment 29628
Although I've made such a fist of the 'Nez, I don't think it would qualify as a starter.
Wait for the Tele ! I'll get that one right !
(Don't tell my missus!)
Mmmm yeah maybe....though the headstock shape is not typical I company. I don't think it is as mistakeable as the "Mossie". though again if you don't want to enter it in GOTM, there really isn't an issue.Quote:
Originally Posted by wcieslik
The way I read it is if it's an actual brand name.
Clearly both of these are a play on the style.
Much like the actual shape of the guitars mimic the real ones, and nobody seems to take issue with that.
Also there isn't exactly a sheep station hanging in the balance.
cheers, Mark.