Daves SG Build Whist Waiting for the clear to dry on my LP

I cant hang around waiting for the paint to dry so on to my next build.
I am in two minds may be four for the finish. I found this finish on the internet.
Attachment 22843Attachment 22856
But I really like solid black bazecoat with a tiny amount of pearl in it. Less than my Les Paul. similar to this one.
Attachment 22844
Or do I go radical with Holgrafix paint.
Attachment 22845
Or if I get bored with the black bazecoat I could spray over it with black chrome in a year or so when it cured.
I do not know what the Mahogany is like yet for option 1 I will have to wait and see hopefully it will arrive tomorrow.
The first option looks like more of a challenge but I would need lots of trips to the paint shop to get the right colours.
What say ye all.

Tend to think that if the body has good grain it deserves a stain finish. Solid colour if the timber is just plain jane.

How about like this but with darker edges. Of course only if the grain is good. What stain is compatible with 2k acryl
Attachment 22989

That looks nice.

No idea what exact colour is but suspect a combination of some gold in the middle and a brown outer. Dingo Tone Coolangatta Gold & Nullabor Ochre or Feast Watson Golden Teak with Teak Brown or Oak.

Never used acrylic so cannot comment on that aspect.

I did a test on plywood to see if acrylic would stick to my stain. I also used the same test to see what the stain would look like.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Swanny

I did a test on plywood to see if acrylic would stick to my stain. I also used the same test to see what the stain would look like.

---

And ????

Sent from my A101 using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by DaveC64

And ????

Sent from my A101 using Tapatalk

---

It looks like I need a simtec clear sanding finish. Then apply the 2k clear acryl

Sent from my A101 using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by DaveC64

And ????

Sent from my A101 using Tapatalk

---

In my case it worked, i was using water based stains, and an acrylic clear coat.

At the moment I'm using water based stains with True Oil, and it works.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Swanny

In my case it worked, i was using water based stains, and an acrylic clear coat.

At the moment I'm using water based stains with True Oil, and it works.

---

Excellent thanks swanny.

Sent from my A101 using Tapatalk

I have ordered a six pack of assorted 250ml water based coloured stains off ebay. cheaper than buying singles. I will have to experiment on some ply to check out the colour that I am looking for hopefully it is a nice piece of log. If Australia post can work out how to send a parcel to the correct address on the label I may see my sg today. Its done more gigs than me already.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by DaveC64

I have ordered a six pack of assorted 250ml water based coloured stains off ebay. cheaper than buying singles. I will have to experiment on some ply to check out the colour that I am looking for hopefully it is a nice piece of log. If Australia post can work out how to send a parcel to the correct address on the label I may see my sg today. Its done more gigs than me already.

---

Did you buy a 6 pack of Ubeat dyes?

Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk

No But I will if you recommend them.

Ubeaut dyes are great. I highly recommend.
http://i.imgur.com/4QbK9A0.jpg

Finally it has arrived it is 2 distinct planks. I will try to get the lighter plank darker before I Apply any stain on top.
Attachment 23004Attachment 23005

I have ordered the U Beaut dyes and the U Beaut Sanding Sealer 500ml.
I should have used that on my LP I did have a few issues with grain rising at the grey primer stage.
I especially like the bit where the sealer will stop the grain ends absorbing lots of dye and going really dark.
Wish My uncle was still alive he was a professional french polisher. The last time I worked with mahogany was when I made a coffee table at school I used wax to polish and finish the wood. It is too long ago to remember the process. I know I had to use assorted veneers on the table top because a mahogany top would have been beyond the school budget.
Any way thanks for the advice guys now the work can soon begin.

The winner is
Attachment 23007

2 distinctly different planks.....maybe go dark on the lighter one and light on the darker one.

I have spent a couple of hours sanding by hand whilst waiting for the sealer to arrive. This mahogany is as hard as I remember. Now I have it sanded to a good finish it has some fine what look like very fine band saw lines on the front almost like coarse sand paper grooves. If they do not sand out they could be an issue when I start on the dye. they could leave dark straight diagonal lines. I don't want to have to get the power sander out.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by DaveC64

I have spent a couple of hours sanding by hand whilst waiting for the sealer to arrive. This mahogany is as hard as I remember. Now I have it sanded to a good finish it has some fine what look like very fine band saw lines on the front almost like coarse sand paper grooves. If they do not sand out they could be an issue when I start on the dye. they could leave dark straight diagonal lines. I don't want to have to get the power sander out.

---

Sometimes you need to sand in the same direction as the machine marks and once they are gone revert back to sanding in direction of the grain.

Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk

Body and neck Sanded and sealed ready for the dyes when they arrive. Just got to sculpt the headstock
Attachment 23040Attachment 23041

Quote:

---

Sometimes you need to sand in the same direction as the machine marks and once they are gone revert back to sanding in direction of the grain.

---

Yep I tried that but the wood is so dam hard it is hard to make in impression hence I have used some sealer in hope that it will help with my next sanding pass.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by DaveC64

Yep I tried that but the wood is so dam hard it is hard to make in impression hence I have used some sealer in hope that it will help with my next sanding pass.

---

You may have just trapped those machine marks under a layer of sealer. They will not go away until they have been sanded out. Not sure adding more sealer will disguise things enough to be not noticeable when stain has been applied.
Acknowledge it is a lot of work, particularly with some timber species.

Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk

Yey it worked marks be gone. I used U buet sanding sealer. I did take your advice on one mark and went with the direction of a bad mark and then when it was gone sanded with the grain again. I have applied one more coat of sealer rub down tomorrow and onto the dyes when they arrive strange how the sealer arrived first when I ordered it last. Karma The wood is now looking much better and the colour is a lot less noticeable now.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by DaveC64

Yey it worked marks be gone. I used U buet sanding sealer. I did take your advice on one mark and went with the direction of a bad mark and then when it was gone sanded with the grain again. I have applied one more coat of sealer rub down tomorrow and onto the dyes when they arrive strange how the sealer arrived first when I ordered it last. Karma The wood is now looking much better and the colour is a lot less noticeable now.

---

Good to hear things are working out fine for you.

Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk

The dying commences I have used cedar to take the initial colour on the top plank down to match the bottom plank.
Attachment 23061Attachment 23062

I want to go cherry for the middle and dark almost black for the edges. I will have to experiment with the mix probably red and a little cedar. I will have to work out the ratio the dyes are extremely strong I only used probably 10% die rest warm water.
I think this is ready now.
Attachment 23065

Well done job!

After 2 coats of cuprinol Mahogany stain a few more coats still required to get down to the colour I am after.
Attachment 23079

Well done Dave, you evened that out nicely, i like the plan for the finished colours

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by wazkelly

You may have just trapped those machine marks under a layer of sealer. They will not go away until they have been sanded out. Not sure adding more sealer will disguise things enough to be not noticeable when stain has been applied.
Acknowledge it is a lot of work, particularly with some timber species.

Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk

---

machine marks aside , some stains, ie finger marks, pencil marks, water marks come out easier upon sanding a 'wet' sealer.

remember years of removing the carpenters grubby pencil and dirt which was far easier to eliminate when sanding a 'wet just sealed' timber than to dry sand it prior.
i was was amzed how some machine marks and other oddities including colour varibles where more easily seen wet.
soz for ramble..lol

And now I am almost there the back looks dark enough I will see how it is in the morning. the front does not look as red as in the photo.
Attachment 23087Attachment 23085Attachment 23086
I am going a little darker on the front then I will spray the head stock black and the edges of the body Hopefully it should give a feathered in look all around the outside. This one I will not be attaching the neck until the body and neck are painted and dried. I attached the LP neck before painting because I wanted a seamless join to the body which is what I achieved. If it was bolt on I would have done the same as this one.

And here we are again ready for the clear next week.
Attachment 23101Attachment 23102
The neck and head is the same colour as the body I have primed the headstock on the front top and the sides. I will sand it down and then apply a totally black face sides head and back and blead it into the neck then at the shoulder spray it black and blead into the neck.
Hopefully that will work out it wont be until mid next week now before I have any more updates.
Hope ye all like it.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by DaveC64

And here we are again ready for the clear next week.
Attachment 23101Attachment 23102
The neck and head is the same colour as the body I have primed the headstock on the front top and the sides. I will sand it down and then apply a totally black face sides head and back and blead it into the neck then at the shoulder spray it black and blead into the neck.
Hopefully that will work out it wont be until mid next week now before I have any more updates.
Hope ye all like it.

---

Looks great

Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk

It sure does! Nice job :)

3 coats of clear Just spotted the anomaly on the back Hopefully it is just a gnat I can remove later.
Attachment 23160Attachment 23157Attachment 23158
Attachment 23159

Coming along really well.

I checked the finish this afternoon it is drying much faster and harder so I will leave it until Monday before I wet sand a layer off to remove the pocks and and blemishes. Then the final spray
I have found the Baslac clear 40-40 product much better for hardness and drying time and I only goofed once with the gun on the edge I pulled the trigger when I was not moving the gun splodge it dried out ok a minor run to remove before the next coat.
If you use this product vent well and wear a mask it states it is for professional use only. It creates very small particles.
You may wear a eye guard as well other wise you could ruin your glasses. The over spray if you are within 1 meter will stick. unlike spray cans I have found does not go that distance.

I think I am going to stop at this level of finish. what say ye all.

I can polish any minor defects later where required,
Attachment 23253Attachment 23251
Attachment 23252Attachment 23250

That is looking very hot!

It has now cured unlike my LP which is still a little impressionable. I would certainly recommend the Baslac 40-40 product for 2k clear finishing you just do a 100ml clear 50 ml hardener 10 ml reducer mix ( I increased my reducer because I was using 2 bar through a 1mm nozzle. LPHV gun. This is the 2k clear professional car paint repair shops use hence the quick hardening.
It comes in 1 litre cans does not go off until you mix it with the hardener then you can use it for up to 4 hours, or thereabouts it says on the spec sheet depending on temperature.
just doing my pre build more pictures later. The neck lines up perfectly there was about <0.1 mm play at the shoulder when in the correct position. which translated to quite a range at the headstock. I just sighted it in with the bridge.

Here is the completed build I will post it to GOTM when I have finished setting up and polishing.
Attachment 23265Attachment 23266
Attachment 23267Attachment 23268
I will do some better photos when the Light outside shows of the wood colour.

nice one Dave its come up a treat. Don't forget to peel off the white stickers back of tuners.
So is this an all stock hardware build ?

Like how you have worked the black burst to the neck heel and other side of control cavity