Simon's Super Strat Scratch Build.

*EDIT*
If you want to check out my video build diary, please go here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q2p3n_5s8X0.
Do remember to "like" and subscribe to my channel because I'll be updating frequently.

Try saying the title 10x together.

Hi guys, I've decided to build my own strat-style guitar from scratch. Also, I'm not sure if this is the right place to post because it's still a build diary but not a PitBull kit. Moderators please move it if it's not in the right place. Thanks!

I've built a few kits in the past, refinished some guitars and also built two EVH tribute guitars with all the relic work. My latest project was the Kramer 5150, in which I had to do extensive modifications to the body to get it to the right shape. Hence, I have some experience with guitar building, especially with finishing and wiring.

So I decided to take a leap of faith and build a guitar from scratch. The plan will be to do a natural finish with a 22 fret HSH, strat-style guitar.

My choice of wood:
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...pszg2lmdw3.png
From left to right: QLD maple neck blank, QLD forrest rosewood, two-piece QLD maple body blank, and 7mm bookmatched zebrano for a drop top.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...psaqcdulay.png
The figuring on this zebrano is insane! I got it from Anagote Timbers in Marrickville, NSW for only $40. I recommend Sydneysiders to check them out if you want to source local timber.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...ps4gjcqrwm.png
These are the working templates made of 12mm MDF. I modified the heel joint for better access to upper frets.

To make sure I didn't ruin the beautiful timber, I practised on some pine bought from Bunnings. The total cost of all the pine wood was about $60, 5x less than the actual timber.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...psdueymf2j.png
Pine is really soft and easy to work but that's why they aren't used in guitars, especially in necks.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...psjoj3vrnb.png
The neck and body together.

And now we can begin working on the proper guitar. First off, I had to thickness the neck blank down to the standard 19mm.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...pslvvwni4o.png

Since I don't have a drum sander or thicknesser, I used a router sled to take off the excess wood, from about 28mm to 19mm. This took three passes in all.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...psa05ere4s.png
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...pshfj5garx.png
I had to keep checking with a level beam that it is flat.

I also thicknessed the fretboard to 6mm. I need to get a combined thickness of 25mm.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...ps51fyftez.png
I check that there are no gaps in between. Both pieces are totally flat.

Once I'm happy with the thickness of the neck blank, it's time to route the truss rod channel.

I started by drawing a centre line, which is perhaps the most crucial line in guitar building ever. Then I traced the outline of the neck template, after making sure the centre lines matched up.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...psnybhi8vc.png

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...psozaup4yr.png
This is the truss rod I'm using. I got it from RealParts.com.au and it's an Allparts truss rod. Really nice, slim profile unlike the ones FEnder use.


I then drilled some relief holes along the truss rod channel. These will help with the routing.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...psgrutmfmn.png

Using a straight edge guide, I then routed the channel with a 1/4" router bit. The depth of the truss rod had to be just above 9mm.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...psnwdwgoq3.png
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...pslcbnqtld.png

I then used a sharp chisel to square the ends where the truss rod tips will sit.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...pskh6hqa9d.png

Then I test fit the truss rod and it's snug as a bug.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...psgxmhb0zp.png

Nice project Simon. I'll be watching this one closely and like the proposed timbers for this build. I'll be taking the leap of faith soon into a scratch build. I have the plans. Now need to make the templates...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by andrewdosborne

Nice project Simon. I'll be watching this one closely and like the proposed timbers for this build. I'll be taking the leap of faith soon into a scratch build. I have the plans. Now need to make the templates...

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Go for it! It isn't as scary as you think!

Very nice! I love that wood youre using as a top.. never seen anything like it..

Great stuff!
Glad to see you do a dummy run first... Always nice to be certain the templates are correct before attacking nice chunks of tree..
Really nice choices of timbers too, QLD Maple is always a nice timber, especially when you score some quarter cut chunks :)

One pro tip though, make sure the top timber and body timber are matched for moisture content.
Last thing you need is for the top to be different to body as it can do some funky things as the two timbers balance out... I have seen centre joins open, tops split and also de lamination occour through mis matched timbers.
(You can get a moisture meter for around the $50 mark)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dingobass

Great stuff!
Glad to see you do a dummy run first... Always nice to be certain the templates are correct before attacking nice chunks of tree..
Really nice choices of timbers too, QLD Maple is always a nice timber, especially when you score some quarter cut chunks :)

One pro tip though, make sure the top timber and body timber are matched for moisture content.
Last thing you need is for the top to be different to body as it can do some funky things as the two timbers balance out... I have seen centre joins open, tops split and also de lamination occour through mis matched timbers.
(You can get a moisture meter for around the $50 mark)

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Wow that would be terrible! Thanks for the tip DB!

cool project Simon and love the timber you scored. Well documented build diary too and good move doing a pine test body/neck.
I will be watching this build diary with interest. You have a natural talent for scratch builds I can see that !

I then proceeded to cut the neck out with a jigsaw and a hand saw. Disadvantages of not having a bandsaw...
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...pscf12c6nf.png
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...psveubbbeq.png

To cut out the headstock where there are tight curves, I made some relief cuts.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...pslvx98ky6.png

Then I took off the excess wood as close to the line with rasps. I especially love the Shinto rasp and I highly recommend it.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...pshdzz8zr8.png

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wokkaboy

cool project Simon and love the timber you scored. Well documented build diary too and good move doing a pine test body/neck.
I will be watching this build diary with interest. You have a natural talent for scratch builds I can see that !

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Thanks wokka! I'm really looking forward to completing it!

After taking down most of the wood till the edges are about 2-3mm close to the line, I proceeded to route the outline.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...ps9jlfzse5.png

I don't have a router table (and I fear to use one after reading some horror stories online) so I used some off cuts to stabilise the router.

This is the neck after the routing is done.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...psypuhwe8y.jpg
It came out cleaner than I expected. Probably due to the new, extra sharp router bit I bought from Carbec.

Next thing would be to thickness the headstock down to 14mm. So I had to take off about 6mm.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...psvi9mypn8.png

good work Simon, you can get away without a bandsaw, just a bit more elbow grease !
Hope your jigsaw and router aren't plugged into live power on the ground, wearing 3 pluggers (thongs) worksafe would have a word to say !

EDIT I missed the last 2 or 3 posts, you are making good use of that workbench !

After thicknessing the headstock, I had to file down the headstock transition. Once again, my good friend Shinto.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...psdugb1zat.png

I also used half round files and sandpaper to smooth out the transition.

Then it was down to drilling the truss rod access hole. I didn't use any fancy 3 degree angle jigs. Just took my time and used an extra long 7mm drill bit.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...ps1oeucuc0.png
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...psanjk8ctu.png

I'm pretty happy with how the neck turned out. So far, no major screw ups and I'm very glad!

I'll have to do the fretboard next!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wokkaboy

good work Simon, you can get away without a bandsaw, just a bit more elbow grease !
Hope your jigsaw and router aren't plugged into live power on the ground, wearing 3 pluggers (thongs) worksafe would have a word to say !

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Oh no you spotted me wearing thongs! Was hoping no one saw that! But yes they are all unplugged and so far I've not had any accidents in the garage!

good work Simon, this is a great tutorial to show others building kits you don't need a heap of tools to build a scratchy.

Are you going to build the pine axe anyway ?

oh and don't worry if Worksafe visited 4D workshop they would put a permanent ban on it hahah

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wokkaboy

good work Simon, this is a great tutorial to show others building kits you don't need a heap of tools to build a scratchy.

Are you going to build the pine axe anyway ?

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Yes that's right! You can do a lot of things by hand, but probably the most vital tool is a router.

I'm not going to finish the pine because I think it's too soft and not dry enough to be an actual guitar. The neck also doesn't have a truss rod.

well you can always turn the pine body into a clock !

think about Robin built a scratchy with absolutely no power tools, now that's dedication !

presume you will use the router to clean up the body shape after you roughly jigsawed it ?

That bought back some memories..
The very first build I did was with a jigsaw, munted old chisel, a few rasps and an ancient router that had a mind of its own.....
Still got that Bass and some days I think it is one of the best I ever built.. A lot can be said for doing stuff the old fashioned way, it brings you closer to the build and more of your self comes out as a result.
No CNC machine will ever build passion into a Guitar.

that's it DB, CNC machines are handy for templates to route !

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wokkaboy

well you can always turn the pine body into a clock !

think about Robin built a scratchy with absolutely no power tools, now that's dedication !

presume you will use the router to clean up the body shape after you roughly jigsawed it ?

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Haha I would have no place to put that clock! Hand tools are impressive but I don't have that much skill!

Yes I'll do the same for the body. Since I'm doing a drop top, it will be easier to cut out the 38mm body compared to the original 45mm.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dingobass

That bought back some memories..
The very first build I did was with a jigsaw, munted old chisel, a few rasps and an ancient router that had a mind of its own.....
Still got that Bass and some days I think it is one of the best I ever built.. A lot can be said for doing stuff the old fashioned way, it brings you closer to the build and more of your self comes out as a result.
No CNC machine will ever build passion into a Guitar.

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Haha we all had to start some where! CNC machines are cool but they lack the TLC that comes from the hands of men!

Good work Simon and thank you for taking the time to put up this info. I am sure it will come in handy for when i make the leap to scratch builds...which is a way off as yet!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Andy40

Good work Simon and thank you for taking the time to put up this info. I am sure it will come in handy for when i make the leap to scratch builds...which is a way off as yet!

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Thanks Andy! Looking forward to yours!

Managed to get some work done after the weekend.

I started by cutting the fret slots by hand, with my Hosco fret saw. It cuts on the pull stroke like other japanese saws.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...psrozg1sh2.png

I downloaded one of those templates online (yes I know it's cheating) and made sure that they are all 100% accurate. I had to redo the templates 3 times because I kept messing up the measurements. In the end, the measurements are all dead accurate and I'm glad I didn't screw up the scale length. This is a 25.5" (or 647.7mm for us metric users) 22 fret neck.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...psqzolxzoh.png

The final result.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...psc3i8zk6s.png

I then traced the neck's outline and cut out the fretboard. Once again I stayed clear of the line because I'm using a jigsaw.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...pskgkz1njl.png
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...psa0o0qhcv.png

Then it was time to glue the fretboard on. No turning back from this point onwards!

After making sure the surfaces were flat and roughen with 80 grit, I started off by installing the truss rod.

I placed four beads of silicone in the truss rod channel, 2 at each end and 2 in the middle. I didn't have a caulking gun so I improvised and used a clamp haha.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...ps97zxu4wh.png

Then I pushed the truss rod in. No turning back now! I then cleaned up the silicone that squeezed out.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...pshydg7rjh.png

Before gluing on the fretboard, I also used 2 nails at both ends of the neck to help align the fretboard. The glue will act as a lubricant and the fretboard will be sliding around, making it very hard to position it properly. The indexing pins will help keep it in place.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...psuanzo8dm.png

Now, it's time to glue the fretboard. We've reached the point of no return! This was definitely a scary, big step. First time!

I first taped off the truss rod channel.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...psoikezwzd.png

Then I applied as much glue as I could and spread it all out evenly.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...psgcb2luzm.png

looks great Simon, well done

Once the fretboard was placed on, it slid right into place because the nails helped align it.

Then I scrambled for every clamp I ever owned - only 7 in total. Clamps are expensive so I'll have to collect them slowly.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...pspev70c2n.png

I managed to get even glue squeeze out. This means my joint was well prepared and I was very pleased. It was extremely satisfying seeing the glue squeeze out as I clamped it down. I also wiped off the excess with wet paper towels to help more glue to be squeezed out.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...psvuqg6pmy.png

That's it for today. I'm leaving all the clamps on for 24 hours.

So far so good!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by SIMpleONe89

Oh no you spotted me wearing thongs! Was hoping no one saw that! But yes they are all unplugged and so far I've not had any accidents in the garage!

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Must be a Queenslander as they are standard issue safety boots up here haha.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wazkelly

Must be a Queenslander as they are standard issue safety boots up here haha.

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Those are cultural artefacts Waz, the Traditional footwear of many island nations.

Goes with the glad wrap i saw around the eyes of a welder in India

http://talentclick.com/wp-content/up...2013/09/10.jpg

This is looking great so far, I'm definitely going to keep following this thread as I'm very interested in seeing how this build pans-out and also checking out the finished guitar, the woods you've used look really nice too, especially the one for the top of the body since it has a lovely grain pattern, keep up the good work on it mate.

Thanks guys. At the moment I'm still contemplating on the fretboard inlays but hopefully I'll have more progress by the weekend.

Great work simon and a great write up! I dont quite understand how the nails help align the fretboard but i'll do some digging on that one.

Cheers,
Gav.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gavinturner

Great work simon and a great write up! I dont quite understand how the nails help align the fretboard but i'll do some digging on that one.

Cheers,
Gav.

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So basically the nails are fixed to the neck and if you align the fretboard with the centre line and press down hard, they should leave an indentation on the fretboard where the nails are. Then you take a drill bit and drill where the indentation is, you end up with a hole that is aligned with the nail on the fretboard. After you glue up the fretboard, the nails will fit into the holes in the fretboard, keeping it from sliding as the glue acts as a lubricant. The nails basically hole the fretboard into place.

Sorry if I can't explain it well but I'll let David Fletcher do the explanation:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=67axCaw9Bdc
Watch from 11:08 onwards.

Managed to work on the neck this weekend.

After the glue dried, I trimmed the fretboard flush with a bottom bearing flush trim bit.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...pscwwz9lh7.png
I used a router sled to stabilise the router because I don't want to risk tearing into the neck.

After that, I had to radius the fretboard. I used a 14" sanding block with 80 grit. Sanding is a boring and tedious process, but it's important. Someone once said guitar building is 95% sanding.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...ps60ef6wtw.png

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...psuspjcz96.png
I used a radius gauge to check my progress. I think it took me about 2 hours to radius the fretboard.