Limewash on basswood

I really like the idea of a translucent limewash finish.

A bit like the bare basswood.

So here is the idea:

A darkish stain, probably grey, sanded back to pop what little grain the basswood has.

Limewash style stain over the top, probably knocked back as well.

Wipe on poly. I think more coats than DB would approve of.

Cut and polish with automotive cutting compound.

Anyone tried something like this?

Can anyone poke holes in the idea? (Please do, as a wise man learns from his mistakes, a wiser man learns from the mistakes of others)

Thanks

Colin

I had a crack at using FW lime wash on a Tele body once. Similar idea to yours but that particular lime wash was too cloudy and not transparent enough. It obscured the grain below and just looked a bit yucky. That was using the wash neat. Maybe it could work better thinned out a bit?


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Thanks Andrew.

Dropped into a hardware on the way home. It seems FW don't want you to thin it.

I suppose what ever the clean up medium is would be the thinner...

I wonder if there is a real water based lime wash anywhere to be found (Probably banned years ago!!!). Might have to go old school, get some oyster shells, build a lime kiln and make my own. ;)

So I did some searching.

Lime wash is slaked lime and water. Sounds almost too easy.

One site had this "tip":

For a more subtle effect, use lime paste. Dampen the wood first and brush lightly with a wire brush. Rub the paste in and allow it to dry. Rub the excess off and apply a coat of matte polyurethane/varnish.

Read more : http://www.ehow.com/how_6670364_whit...oorboards.html

Might be worth an experiment.

Where can I get some basswood? I can find ply but not lumber.

nice idea, interested to see the results

Mr Ormsby just posted tips on how he does transparent white finish. I'm just going to copy dump it here


David's white wash over maple.

How to do it? Easy.

1. Stain your maple black.

2. Sand it back so the grain is highlighted. 400 grit works well. You want the curls or figure to be black and clean maple. Photo below.

3. Clear coats or sealer to seal it. Make sure the finish is flat.

4. Add a very small amount of white paint in with your next coat of clear. I mixed white with 'intercoat clear' by House of Kolor. Regular clear works too.
The 'white clear' needs to be mixed so it's very translucent. In the mixing cup it will just appear to be white. I used three thin coats to achieve this depth. Use scrap to test as you spray!

6. Regular clear.

7. Buff!

https://scontent-lax3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...07&oe=5665DCC7

Alternative?

Ahhhhh. Never thought of doing a milky "clear coat".

Thanks Pabs.

awesome Pabs, thanks

Today I dropped into a paint place to pick up some bibs and bobs, and to ask about my current incarnation of this plan.

Now, as a professional writer I pride myself on my ability to explain complex subject matter. My pride took an enormous hit.

I couldn't adequately explain my idea to the paint gurus.

So I bid them "fair winds and following seas" and moved on to the next stop on my long weekend shopping odyssey. I had to get some gardening things from a big green shed.

While on the premises I happened to wander through the paint and finish section and had a peruse of the lime wash/varnish/poly/stain shelves.

A man dressed in red and green (I think he may have been one of Santa's Elves, one of the elves who paint the toys) who seemed quite knowledgeable was able to grasp my concept and translate that into small metal tins that went into my gardening supplies trolley. I think his knowledge must have come from his time painting toys for Santa).

So now I just need the weather to co-operate and to give me some time under 35°C in the shed to take care of the sanding tasks...

For the record, I ended up with:
1 x British Paints Water Based Walnut Stain (Grain Pop)
1 x F&W Liming White Stain & Varnish (Milky Coat)
1 x Cabots Cabothane Clear - Water Based (Clear Coats)

Even in small tins it cost almost as much as the kit!! How we must suffer for our art. :)

good stuff Rabbitz well you should have enough supplies to do several axes with the lime wash

Have to see if it works first :)

just try it out on scrap first

Plenty of scrap in the naughty warehouse, and for admitting you went to the BGSFOS you will also have plenty of time to experiment...
Woks, pour Rabz a beer please mate :)

haha no worries DB, I seem to be pouring more beer than I am consuming so think it's time we employed a barman so I can consume and build more !

But I didn't go there to get the finishes, it was for ummmmmmmmmmmm, oh yeah, gardening things.

Thanks Woks, I better get used to it.

haha don't worry Rabbitz its a pretty cool naughty warehouse - get to drink beer, eat pizza and build guitars all day !
nice rehabilitation I reckon haha

Well in all honesty, I just had my fill of pizza, fired up my brand new wood fired pizza oven tonight.

So I guess I'm on naughty warehouse pizza duties?

Hey Rabbitz nice one, can you please post a pic of your new pizza oven ? Did you build it from a kit ?
If you are volunteering for pizza duties in the NW I'm sure we can use help !

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Rabbitz

Today I dropped into a paint place to pick up some bibs and bobs, and to ask about my current incarnation of this plan.

Now, as a professional writer I pride myself on my ability to explain complex subject matter. My pride took an enormous hit.

I couldn't adequately explain my idea to the paint gurus.

So I bid them "fair winds and following seas" and moved on to the next stop on my long weekend shopping odyssey. I had to get some gardening things from a big green shed.

While on the premises I happened to wander through the paint and finish section and had a peruse of the lime wash/varnish/poly/stain shelves.

A man dressed in red and green (I think he may have been one of Santa's Elves, one of the elves who paint the toys) who seemed quite knowledgeable was able to grasp my concept and translate that into small metal tins that went into my gardening supplies trolley. I think his knowledge must have come from his time painting toys for Santa).

So now I just need the weather to co-operate and to give me some time under 35°C in the shed to take care of the sanding tasks...

For the record, I ended up with:
1 x British Paints Water Based Walnut Stain (Grain Pop)
1 x F&W Liming White Stain & Varnish (Milky Coat)
1 x Cabots Cabothane Clear - Water Based (Clear Coats)

Even in small tins it cost almost as much as the kit!! How we must suffer for our art. :)

---

Hi,

I know it's een a logn time since this post - but hwo did you find the F&W liming white?

I've been thinking of using it either to keep a maple neck "white" or to do a whitewash" of the guitar body (made of Douglas Fir).

Here's my rather meagre build diary.

I had forgotten the tribulations of that build...

https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...ead.php?t=4409

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rabbitz

Here's my rather meagre build diary.

I had forgotten the tribulations of that build...

https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...ead.php?t=4409

---

Thanks.

If I follwo it correctly:

Your guitar body was basswood (which from memory is rather "white")
Stained it with walnut stain.
put a clear coat of something on top (I'm assuming some kind of topcoat - like varnish?)
Then put (many layers of) Liming white (and varnish)

I cannot make out the pictures really well but it seems to be considerably whitened but with some of the grain showing through.

At the time you mentioned you were happy with the result - do you still have the guitar and do you still think it a good finish?


I am working on the principle that the liming white would go on bare wood easier ( so perhaps need a few less coats).

What I'm working with is a pitbull neck (which as you know is maple - very pale) and douglas fir (oregon or orange pine) which has a pronounced grain and some colour - however when you put Danish oil on them... the maple goes a yellow and the douglas fir goes an orangy/yellowy/brownish colour that really doesn't go with the yellowed maple.

So I'm thinking of using the Liming white the douglas fir (if it gives a good result) and giving the neck a "roasted maple" colour.

Geez, I can't believe that was 10 years ago!

IIRC the process was to sand the body to the required smoothness.

The theory behind the grain "popping" with the stain is that the grain is made up of differing hardness of wood material. The stain is absorbed differently into the various layers within the grain. The stain penetrates deeper into the softer material. Thus once the stain is applied, you gently sand the surface, which removes the shallower stain, leaving the accentuated deeper stain.

After that you can apply the light coats of limewash - the darker popped grain will still be slightly visible, giving the effect.

Finally the finishing coats of clear to harden the surface and make it tougher to damage.

I hope that makes sense.

Rabz

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rabbitz

Geez, I can't believe that was 10 years ago!

IIRC the process was to sand the body to the required smoothness.

The theory behind the grain "popping" with the stain is that the grain is made up of differing hardness of wood material. The stain is absorbed differently into the various layers within the grain. The stain penetrates deeper into the softer material. Thus once the stain is applied, you gently sand the surface, which removes the shallower stain, leaving the accentuated deeper stain.

After that you can apply the light coats of limewash - the darker popped grain will still be slightly visible, giving the effect.

Finally the finishing coats of clear to harden the surface and make it tougher to damage.

I hope that makes sense.

Rabz

---

Yes - that would be the case with Basswood.

Douglas fir has a rather pronounced grain so I'd not need a stain before the Liming white.
It does have a bit more natural colour too.

When I came across your thread here - given that you used the same product I was thinking of (F&W Liming white) I thought to get your opinion of the product and it's results... too many "review" online are simply adverts. Good to come across an actual user.

I see you used the "Liming white with varnish" with some Cobot's water based finish.

Most importantly - if you look at the guitar now - do you still think it's a good product/finish?
Is there a chance of a photo of the finished guitar (10 years later....)?

The Rabbitzcaster 10 years on...

Working on a "tan" by the pool?

Is it a trick of the light or has the finish "softened" a bit - Not quite a white as it was....

Attachment 45661Attachment 45662

It's a little pinker I think. The images are misleading as it is white and will change with the ambient light.

I am pretty happy with its stability.

I am not happy with the fact I haven't had time to play a guitar since we moved down here...