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Hello Guys,
I bought some nut slot files alongside my first kit because I thought that I could just file the plastic nut slots down the correct heights for the strings.
However, I have done some more research recently and it seems that the nut slots themselves should not be too deep and therefore the overall nut height should be reduced (by sanding the bottom) if the strings are too high. Does this sound correct?
This would mean that the plastic nut would need to come off and have the bottom sanded down to get to the correct height (assuming its too high of course).
If this plastic nut has to come off then it seems like a good idea to replace it with a better nut (bone or otherwise).
Seems like the PBG kit guitar neck and fretboards are pretty similar. Is there a particular shaped and pre-slotted nut size that suits the PGB guitars? Has anyone bought a particular product they have been able to drop right on in successfully? I would love to know what it was if they did.
I have an ST-1 if they are all a bit different.
If there is nothing I can get off the shelf then I guess "making my own nut" would be the only alternative? In which case I would have some further questions.
Cheers,
Rohan.
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Yep that right ... but if you've gone to the expense of buying some nut-slot files why waste time fiddling with the plastic ... get something decent.
I'm building the SG kit and disposed of the plastic nut almost immediately and invested in a Graphtec TUSQ nut (which is essentially man-made ivory - hence the name) but nuts like many other things are personal preference - bone, brass, even graphite!
Nut dimensions are as widespread as manufacturers - Fender's are really thin whereas Gibson's are quite fat in comparison. I found that even though I'm building an ostensibly Gibson copy, the nut dimensions (and the slot that it was fitted into) didn't match either Gibson or Epiphone specs for their SGs so there was nothing off-the-shelf that I could buy ... hence the reason for buying the Tusq blank.
I can't speak for any of the other PBQ models out there - maybe some of the other builders might know if the ST-1 nuts are the same size as a regular Strat nut.
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Hi Scott,
Thanks for that. Yep, from the research I have been trying to get across the forums I get the impression that the PBG nut setups are their own thing - which is fine, it just means as you say that I am going to have to make my own.
Would be good to confirm from others though.
In the meantime, can I ask where you got your TUSQ blank from?
Cheers,
Rohan.
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Rohan,
I went through Australian Luthiers Supplies up on the Gold Coast (Qld) http://www.luthierssupplies.com.au/
... they've got a great range of stuff, are pretty good with their prices and have always given me very speedy delivery
... plus their helpful and really know their stuff! (they're same guys that make the absolutely superb Hancock jazz hollow-body guitars
Real Parts are also pretty good (again in Qld) http://www.realparts.com.au/ ... and give-or-take-a-bit they're competitive price-wise with ALS
I'm in Sydney and would you believe there's no luthier supplies to talk of 'round here! (figure that one out!) ... hence having to order from Qld
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Thanks for that, Scott. Fellow Sydneysider here.
I took at look at your SG thread and sure enough there was a picture of your shiny new blank. I will be following along with that diary closely as the SG is on its way as my next kit!
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Hi Rohan. I was able to get bone and TUSQ nut blanks fot my ST-1 from my local music store. They were an almost perfect fit, slightly oversize.
I only took a few mm off the bottom. Alternatively you can cut the string slots to depth with a string ht. gauge, then file down the top edge of the nut to leave you with the right depth string slot. I have it so my plain string's are seated flush or just proud and the wound strings are seated 2/3 off the way in.
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Yep, PBG nuts are unique.... I get quite a few nut upgrade jobs coming through and I have always got to file the nut blank to fit the slot... none of my nut seating files are the "right" size so I make the nut fit the slot... no biggie.
Scott is correct about the choice being purely personal.
I prefer the warmth of bone and tend to shy away from man made substitutes after a few not so good experiences- more my fault than the synthetic nut blank most probably- but each type will give you a different tonal quality.
Brass is bright, bone is warm and Tusq seems to be somewhere between.
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this comes from DB and My thread on Building your PBG guitar
/<\\/p>[/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/]<\\/p>/Choosing and refining the nut (including Locking Nuts)
The kits come with a plastic nut.
These nuts are occasionally a little too tall and this can lead to intonation problems, most often manifested as a "G" note that is mysteriously sharp on lower "E".
Check string height at the nut.
To check the height of the nut, start at the low E string, and fret it on the third fret (a “G” note).
The string should be sitting on the first fret, or close enough just to see some light through the gap between the string and the fret.
Try holding the string down on the third fret and "tap" the string above the first fret, kind of like checking the neck relief.
You should be able to press the string down just ever so slightly onto the first fret.
Try this procedure for all of the strings.
If there is a big gap, your nut needs some work.
Can you fix this? You can if you use an old set of strings to file the slots deeper.
Hold the string the same way as you hold a piece of dental floss and file the slot, angling down towards the headstock.
Alternatively, you can remove the nut by gently tapping it with a plastic faced mallet.
Then clean up the glue residue from the nut and nut slot.
Next you can sand the bottom of the nut down by attaching a piece of 180 grit paper to a flat surface and rubbing it back and forth.
Be careful to only take a little off each time and check to see how the height is going.
This method does take some time but it is very effective.
The height at the nut is critical to a good playing guitar.
If it is too high, the string will be too low at the 12th fret, probably causing a nasty buzz and intonation problems.
Most folk prefer a nut made from bone.
/<\\/p>[/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/]<\\/p>/Making a Bone Nut from Scratch
For those of us who prefer bone nuts on our Guitars and Basses, the Stewmac String spacing rule is a very handy tool too have.
This easy to use rule gives a compensated string spacing layout.
What this means is the bottom end strings are spaced apart slightly wider than the top end, thus compensating for the thickness of the strings.
This gives a more even feel to your set up.
How this rule works is very simple.
First, mark the position of the two outside strings ( Guitars,usually 3- 5 mm, depending on gauge and personal preference, Bass 4- 6 mm).
Then take the rule and slide it along the two marks until you can see them through the slots on the rule.
You will notice that there are two series of slots, one close to the edge and the other set back.
It is important to ensure that when you are lining up the rule that you are sighting through the same series of slots, if you don’t, you will end up with a very funky spacing! :D
Remember, Bone for Tone! 8-)
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content...i-IMG_1610.JPG
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Thanks guys.
Looks like I'm off to order some blank nuts and a spacing ruler ;)
Is shaping the nut just a matter of filing and sanding to taste for the non-critical bits?
Cheers,
Rohan.
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You can get pre shaped blanks like this. Makes it easier if you don't have machine sanders at hand.
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content...e98q-image.jpg
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Mmmm, not sure what you mean by non critical bitz but just so long as you have the correct profile- you will notice the nut slopes downwards from the bottom e, following the 12 inch radius of the PBG neck- you can get as artistic and funky as you like :)
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No, shaping the nut is a bit of an art form....well, it can be!
The first time you make a nut can take a fair amount of time, but as you become used to it and have made plenty of them it is a task that can be completed very quickly.
Because the PBG guitars are all 12" radiused, you will want the top of your nut to follow this radius. The base of the nut needs to be dead level. A straight edge or flat piece of wood will help achieve this. the back and front also need to be very straight so that the nut fits flush in the grove, or flush up against the fretboard. The top of the nut is important, easy to do if you have a 12' radius block, and you sand down rom the top towards the tuners. This should provide a good rounded finish to the top. I use 180 - 220 grit to achieve a reasonable finish befor polishing with 6000 or higher grit.
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Thanks again for your responses gentlemen.
I have ordered some nut blanks (and perhaps a couple other little tools and consumables...)
After reading this thread last night and doing a fair bit of research via our friend Google I think I might have some idea of what I am doing.
There are some good examples of workflows here:
http://www.stewmac.com/freeinfo/Nuts...es/a-nuts.html
http://www.lenaweelutherie.info/page...26/page26.html
http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Luth...t/newnut1.html
They all have their different little techniques.
I am definitely going to try the Gavin technique with the radius sanding block though as that sounds like a good idea to me. ;)
I will hopefully document the process.. which you probably won't get to see if I fail miserably. Good luck to me!
Cheers,
Rohan.
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I'm sure you will be fine! :)
Don't buy bone nuts off e-bay from unknown sources because they tend to sell you the cracked and damaged stuff you don't see in the pictures!!
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That sounds very scary.
I will stick with my synthentics ;) (went with a TUSQ nut :P)
