HELP! Can't Remove Screw

Hi All, I've gone and stripped the head of the direct mount pickup screw and now can't remove it. The reason I need to remove is that is was the only one out of the 4 screws that for some reason would not go all the way in, even though I pre-drilled to the same depth.

I've tried using duct tape on the head to help fill the gap, tried using 2 different nose pliers and even looked at cutting the head for a flat head screw driver using my Dremel, but the blades are too thick.

So annoyed as i was up to the soldering and setup prior to completion!!!!

Any ideas how to get this out without damaging the body or the pickup or the pre-drilled hole???

I think I would keep persisting with the long nose pliers (or short nose). I would also tape around the edge of the cavity to avoid scratching the finish.
Good luck.

Thanks Trevor, will keep at it and see how i go. I still have no idea yet why this particular screw wouldn't go in all the way like the others, but hoping that once i get the screw out i can have a look and see why. I thought maybe a knot in the wood, but who knows.

So frustrating as i was sooo close to having my fist 7 string usable :(

depending on whether you want to use this as an excuse to buy another tool or not, Jaycar did used to sell a pair of pliers for such occasions. I have found them very useful, but I guess it depends on how much other DIY stuff you do as to whether or not you can justify the expense.

Hey Rabbit, are these the ones you mean? https://www.jaycar.com.au/fujiya-175...rchText=pliers

The only thing is i'm not sure the head will fit between the pickup and the cavity wall....its really tight.

I would cut off the head of the screw so you can at least get the pickup out. Then try removing the threaded portion that's left with pliers. At least without the pickup in there you have a bit more room to manoeuvre.

Worst case scenario I can see, is having to pull the threaded portion out by force, then carefully drilling and plugging the bottom of the cavity for a new screw hole. There may even be enough room in the cavity that you could get away with just gluing a thin wooden block over the old hole and fixing the adjustment screw to that.

I can think of more elaborate possible fixes using threaded inserts and swapping machine screws for the timber screws, but I can tell if that's feasible without seeing it first hand.

Take your needle nosed pliers and make some new grooves which will grip the screw head.

Most slots on the pliers are made to grip the item so they are at right angles to the handle. The pliers from Jaycar have their slots parallel to the handles so they will grip the screw. Just take the pliers and file some slots or a single slot towards the handles and it will grip the head much easier as the pliers will bite into the head. At the moment the slots are parallel to the base of the screw head and wont bite into the head.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by a_novice

Hey Rabbit, are these the ones you mean? https://www.jaycar.com.au/fujiya-175...rchText=pliers

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Yeh, those are the ones. here is another view with a scale to give you an idea of size:

https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...720&fit=bounds

Thanks Rabbit, i can at least measure this to see if they will work, but i'm guessing i won't fit them in. However removing the head of the screw and getting the pickup out may just provide the room i need so will look at that.

Also the pic is really handy as it shows what Dikkybee007 was saying about the grooves running vertically rather than horizontally with respect to the screw.

Assuming that the pickup is on springs or a piece of compressible foam, maybe you could try pushing the pup into the body so you can get better purchase with pliers on the top of the screw...or expose the top to make it easier to cut off without damaging the pup or finish. Something like this with a block of wood on the pup and a larger piece of wood on the bottom so as not to mar the finish.

Attachment 44043

When you do put the new screw in you might check to see that your hole is big enough. If I am using something really hard like maple or ash I have learned to test to get the hole right. The bit I need is usually bigger than the one I *think* I need. Also, I typically now throw away the kit or even OEM screws that come with hardware and use good quality stainless screws. If there is any wear on the head of a used screw I chuck it and use a new one. Last tip is to use a bit of wax on the screw threads before screwing it in. Candle wax works. In places that don't show, I have also used car wax. I have broken/stripped a number of screws and ruined at least one finish because I didn't think these precautions were necessary...