TB4 String Action issues

New builder and I just had to have the T-Bird, even though I read a bad review about the string action being so high that it’s basically unplayable. Any experience with this by anyone else who has fixed it this issue? The first time I opened the box and saw that the front, center section was raised. That, coupled with a ridiculous 3 point bridge that mounts the bridge WAY too high. Even if the bridge were to sit flush on the deck, the string height is about the height of that raised center section. Why is it even there, be a much better and easier build if it were a true flat front. The only way I see to fix is to route out a nest in the body to sit the bridge into, if you want to make use of the 3 huge holes in the body to mount the thing. Then there is the “replace the bridge” option, but then you have to plug those 3 holes and since you don’t know about the “height” issue until after finishing, and matching the stain is impossible turning it into a strip it and paint option. Anyone with ideas out there?

As of 19 mar 22: The pics show after bolting neck on, then mounting everything and stringing up. That’s when I knew that was just too high. I got the upgraded bridge, counter sunk the inserts, and shimmed/set neck correctly and she played great now. Last photo is the completed project. Thanks for all the assistance!

If you've already finished it, the easiest option would be to shim the neck - a thin shim in the neck pocket will tilt the neck backwards, lowering the action.

Thanks! I really didn’t want that option but if that’s the only one……I was hoping to hear from another TB4 builder to at verify the stock situation and relieve me of feeling stupid about it.. thanks again.

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Originally Posted by Johnnyba

Thanks! I really didn’t want that option but if that’s the only one……I was hoping to hear from another TB4 builder to at verify the stock situation and relieve me of feeling stupid about it.. thanks again.

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Hi Johnny,

The best way to check this is to dry fit your neck in position and lay the bridge in it's position as well. Run a straight edge up over the fretboard resting on the frets so it hangs over the bridge. You can then check to see how the angle looks as well as how much you would have to raise (or lower) the bridge to get a playable action. Remember to add a mm or two for string clearance over the frets. Feel free to post photos of your tests, with a the measurements included so we can chime in and give you some advice.

Attachment 42595

FWIW I think it is lucky that the kit TB has a bolt-on neck so that you can shim it. It'd be much worse on a glue on...and there have been a few of those with problems too.

I have made shims from veneer laminated in progressive lengths to create a taper...

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Easier than cutting the taper, and cheaper than getting them from Stew Mac.

I have a 3-point bridge from my first kit. I have tried installing it on two basses. Gave up both times. Mine were on ES kits where they have been really problematic. They may work a bit better on TB kits.

Here's a vid from a guy who thinks they're not bad...

https://youtu.be/4L2evDh7eAc


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The T-bird kit uses the same 3 point bridge the EX-4 uses, and I believe *all* the kits using the kit 3 point bridge suffer the same issues. With my EX-4 I countersunk the holes for the threaded post sockets so they fitted flush to the body, which may help. I also installed a Babicz bridge. Initially I had to lower the saddles , but after it had been strung a while I re-straitened the neck and I had to raise the saddles because the action was too low. This may be a pricey fix for you... The bridge is a very nice piece of kit, but spendy.

I have just finished a PSH kit and had to a lot of work to get my action playable.. (Just finished today)
1) Made a shim about 1.5mm hight from a bit of pine sanded down. (I should have gone higher before setting the neck)
2) Recess the bridget posts
3) Bought a low profile bridge
4) Lowered my nut as much as could.
Managed to get an action of 2mm after setup... I wish I had been more agressive with my shim so I had more room to play with but to worry as my action is fine.

A time ago I did a Firebird bass kit with a three-point bridge and suffered the same problem. The bridge and its mounting posts being just way to high. The solution was to shim the neck in much the same way as Fender3x describes. I was somewhat amazed and horrified at the thickness of shim required, it took several attempts to get it thick enough.

There must be a better (lower profile) 3-point bridge out there.

Thanks all! I will post pics soon but what I have chosen to do was go the “pricey” route as mentioned by Rabbit. I ordered the set of shims from stew Mac, the Babicz bridge. I still feel like that raised center C-section is a design flaw that just is ignored. Flattening that area fron bridge holes back AND countersinking the bridge posts.BTW, what’s the best way to pull out those posts without ruining them? Thanks again.

Find a small screw and put in th post hole base down. Screw in the post and the bushing should start to rise up. The screw head needs to be smaller than your bushing hole. There are a few you rube videos showing how to do it.


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Sorry that I'm late with this discussion.
On my TB-4 I shimmed the neck using plastic card laminated in progressive lengths like Fender3x mentioned. I used the stock bridge and the action worked out great.

My build diary is: https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...l=1#post210833

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Originally Posted by Johnnyba

...what’s the best way to pull out those posts without ruining them?

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Using a bolt to pull the ferrule would be a great approach if the threaded ferrules were made of good quality steel. Unfortunately the kit ferrules are made with cheap pot metal, and will the threads won't put up with a lot of pulling, particularly if the bolt you use is harder than the threads. It may not strip the threads completely, but it can make it hard to screw the bridge mounting posts back in.

What worked for me was to get one of these paint can openers.

Attachment 42608

I had to file the sides of the hook down a bit to get the hook to go through the center hole of the ferrule. Once I got the hook under the ferrule I could slowly work the ferrule up a bit. I also used auto interior panel removal tools to pry up the sides without damaging the finish. But mostly I just used the paint can opener.

Attachment 42607

To do it without damaging anything, I found to be a rather slow process.

Worked perfectly, thanks!

That’s a nice build Trevor. I managed to pull the inserts out successfully. I will countersink them with glue and shim the neck. Waiting for the upgrade bridge. Will post a pic as soon as I figure out how.