Attachment 42285
Hi all
What am I dealing with here? This obvious straight line won't disappear.
This is the second application of ebony timbermate. I've tried sanding with 240 grit but this is not showing any signs of moving.
Thoughts, please?
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Attachment 42285
Hi all
What am I dealing with here? This obvious straight line won't disappear.
This is the second application of ebony timbermate. I've tried sanding with 240 grit but this is not showing any signs of moving.
Thoughts, please?
I would theorise that you potentially have a very slight hollow across there, almost as if that blank has been run through a planer or barrel style sander and it has "Nipped" slightly at that point. This would allow more timber mate to sit in it giving you the darker line.
Are you machine sanding or hand sanding with a flat block?
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Thanks for the reply.
I'm hand sanding with a cork block and the 240. And I've been going along the grain and not in the direction that this line is going.
There doesn't seem to be an obvious edge to "bite" into. If the answer is "more hand-sanding" then I'm prepared to do that :D
I would have a look by putting a ruler across. If you can't really see a dip, you can also try to start the ruler in what Frankenwashie theorised a dip so it might start to 'wonk'. If so, more sanding...
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Okay, being a relatively low cost kit, sometimes the planes on each of the body surfaces is not totally "Flat". Often you only find this out one you've started with a colour or timber mate etc.
On the kits I've built, and the scratch bodies I have made, before I get to colour, I tend to get a flat piece of MDF or a sanding beam that will go the full width of the body. I use 120 grit on the block, and give it a rough sand, then scribble a pencil across the surface until I've got a mass of pencil lines covering the body. I then sand again for 3-4 four strokes, dust off and see if there are areas where the pencil lines haven't been removed.
Where the pencil lines remain, it indicates a low spot. (Others do this with a dust coat of spray paint in a highly contrasting colour to get the same result). This will tell you if you need to continue the wide block/Beam sanding to get a truly flat surface. I continue this process until I can do my scribble and see it completely removed from the body. Then you flip and repeat on the other side (making sure to put something nice and soft under the now flat side!). once both faces are flat, I move up the grades to about 240-320 to get a good surface for paint or stain or timber mate etc.
You need to be sure that your block/beam is straight and flat and won't bend or distort as you work. 19mm mdf or a 25mm straight piece of timber 50-75 mm wide should do. You need to work in one direction and dust off after every couple of strokes (Both the body and the
sanding block/beam to prevent the paper clogging).
Unfortunately, the motto for the site really is:
"Sand, Sand, Sand, then Sand again, and when you think you're finished, Sand some more"
edit: I hope this helps and isn't too demoralising! Its one of the things that tripped me up on my first couple of builds.
I believe Frankie & RnR have identified the issue and given you good advice.
However... I don't want to sound like a dick, but this is the same advice Simon offered you HERE about sanding flat before applying the grain filler and using mist coats of spray paint to identify low spots.
I would also suggest keeping all these posts in your build diary so they're all in one place for future reference (for yourself as well as others) and it avoids us all jumping around trying to find things in order to help you (or others).
Thanks everyone for your input.
I'm ok with the likely reason being a cutting issue from the factory. And I figure that this is the first guitar where I learn the ropes and just do my best. Everything else is a bonus.
I'm glad that this is on the back of the guitar and I hope that the front doesn't have this problem. But if it does then I'll deal with it then.
I've given it a really good go with some 240 and the line is starting to disappear. Huzzah!!
I think I know the answer to this next question but I'll push on anyway.
The area that I've now been working on is showing a lot more ash (ie is a lot lighter than the remainder of the back) - I assume that I now have to re-sand the rest of the back just as vigorously to match it all up before I throw down another application of Timbermate?
I think I might need to head down to Bunnings and buy a few more more sheets of various sandpaper grits.:)
Thanks again, everyone. Very grateful.
Cheers.
Fair enough - still trying to navigate my way around and get the hang of things. It seemed to make sense to have the build diary as a summary of what I am doing and asking specific questions separately in the applicable forum channels. It appears that I have been mistaken in that regard. Mea culpa.Quote:
Originally Posted by McCreed
As for Simon's advice - it appears that I missed that, despite best efforts and intents. I shall endeavour in future not to be so tiresome and maybe learn a little more by my own trial and error and independent research.
Thanks for the heads up and kind regards.
I think there are far too many sub-forums in this forum, but it's too late to do anything about it now as it would be an impossible task to try and relocate all the posts to somewhere suitable. It does make it more confusing to use than necessary, especially to someone new to the forum.
In general, if it's about your build and a problem you are having with it, keep it in your build diary. If it's about something you are thinking of doing, say a different pickup and wiring combination to normal, then that's the time to ask in one of the more specialised sub-forums - though it's still fine to ask in your build diary as it will be read.
Keeping the questions in your build diary does make it easier to find the answers again, especially for other people. Us regulars who read everything posted are probably trying to keep track of maybe 30 different ongoing build diaries in our heads at any one time, plus all the technical sub-forum queries, and if there are several builds going on of identical kits at the same time, it can be hard work!
It's not been helped by the shipping hold-ups and various covid lockdowns, which have meant that instead of kits being in stock and going out at a steady rate over the year, they've been pre-ordered and several month's worth sent out within a few days, so a lot of people get their kits and start building them at the same time.
It's just everyone's personal preference, so don't worry. My preference is to put all questions in my build diary, and if I'm not getting much traction there, then start a separate, more specific thread.Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny Bravo
Tiresome? Bollocks. You're better off asking questions if you're not sure about something before trying it out, especially if it's something that's not reversible ;-)
Thank you, SimonQuote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
Understood.
Thank you for your thoughts. Kind regardsQuote:
Originally Posted by jonwhitear
As Jon says, far better to ask than not to ask. And don't worry, we've all been new to forums and forum protocols at some point in out past. It's easy for us to forget how green and naive we once were.