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Don't judge me. I needed some parts, so I also ordered this for a future project code-named "Balmain". I'll explain that later, but for now...
I was about to start hacking into it, but thought I better double-check the scale length and bridge placement.
Is this cool? It seems a little on the long side, but maybe that's fine with this bridge style?
https://i.imgur.com/7GVRqCc.jpg
Heyo, that looks right. Generally on a tele the end of the bridge is in line with the control cover, or only slightly behind, but your saddles look okay and scale length seems correct.
Waiting for the experts to weigh in though.
25.5” scale, and you look to be at 25.25” ATM. If the bridge plate can move back a bit, by about 1/4”, then I’d do it. You don’t want the intonation springs squashed up too tightly on the bass strings side or the saddle screws sitting on the bridge mounting screws. With a standard Tele scratchplate, you’re also in danger of the bridge plate intruding on the scratchplate, instead of leaving the normal 2-3mm gap. But if you are making your own scratchplate, or happy to mod a bought one, then it doesn’t really matter as you can adjust to suit.
Nah, the scratchplate is fitting fine.
It's no big drama to pull it back a few mm. I was actually thinking it needed to move forward a few mm, which would require a little bit extra space.
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Forward? Nooooo! Think Fender scale length, not Gibson, here!
All good then. I'll continue hacking away.
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So this is project "Balmain". I was looking lovingly into my wife's eyes, then I zoned/zoomed out and was suddenly inspired...
https://i.imgur.com/mMZCcEq.jpg
A milky greenish, semi-opaque finish, with gold trimmings. A TL style seemed appropriate, but before purchasing the kit, I needed to do some R&D.
Getting the colour right was one problem, but the depth required for the milky finish was going to be interesting. I happened across some furniture projects that were using milk paint to get a vintage look, So I sourced some from a place over east, and tried a couple of options.
https://i.imgur.com/23EqCyp.jpg
The test was on paulownia (a lot more open grain than basswood). One side was a base of the milk paint, then clear poly brew over the top. The other side (in the photo) was the milk paint into the poly brew.
https://i.imgur.com/OVClj8i.jpg
The results were enough for me to decide this was the right stuff for the project. I'll make some adjustments in the colour mix, and will probably put down a thin base coat that is a whiter mix, then start adding depth every 5 to 10 poly/paint layers, adjusting the colour mix slightly between each batch.
You should check whether the poly you're using has a UV blocker, as the milk paint will bleach in UV.
I'd be OK with that, to be honest.
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This is my kind of project, really looking forward to seeing how this goes.
So do you mix the milk paint powder into the poly? Or do you alternate layers of paint>poly>paint>poly etc?Quote:
...then start adding depth every 5 to 10 poly/paint layers, adjusting the colour mix slightly between each batch.
I mix the milk paint into the poly. And actually, it would probably be a good idea to have a few layers of clear poly between paint-poly batches.
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Interesting method. I shall be watching.
Interesting colour choice.. I was expecting black and orange......
Nah, it's the name of the style of the glasses. I do have a soft spot for the Tigers, but I'm more of a Richmond guy.
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That looks great! I have never heard of milk paint. I aged the finish on my tele with some meths based wood stain, but I like this idea more.
Nice job!
That colour goes well with the gold, looks great.
Weekend action. Contours and headstock shaping. Lots of sanding next.
https://i.imgur.com/Iy2zHmR.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/ulCIbh2.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/44X0Rn5.jpg
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So.... only 3 on-the-go at the moment???
Are you going to use a neck plate or bushes to mount the neck?
Very nice! I like that colour.
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Yep, only 3 on the go at the moment :)Quote:
Originally Posted by McCreed
And it will be a curved neck plate for this project. I've got a gold one en route.
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You need another project do you have an even number. There’s a reason you can use.
*Unless you have an even number of projects, in which case you need an odd number.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andyxlh
First batch of white milk paint/poly/turps down (5 coats). Pretty much how I was expecting it to be going so far. Which is of course very suspicious.
https://i.imgur.com/42qSXE9.jpeg
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Always a worry if things go as planned.
Headstock shape is good
Looking good.
I'm interested to see the progression of the colour as the coats go on.
+1 on the headstock too.
Thanks gents.
Currently applying a batch of "clean" coats, before I add some more white and a hint of the verdigris for the following batch.
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So, the original idea got canned. The coats just didn't build up nicely, so I pivoted to plan B. So far, so good. One and a half rattle cans.
https://i.imgur.com/E8M881w.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/70aX5p2.jpeg
Hopefully next week's polishing is going to play nicely...
Still going with the gold hardware. Not sure if I will add a pick guard or not at the moment. I've got both black and white single ply options, but I don't like either.
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Liking how this is going, but thinking about some amber tint for the neck and board, to contrast with the white. What's the go to recipe?
https://i.imgur.com/r23jD88.jpeg
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Are you wanting to tint the clear, or stain the timber then clear?Quote:
Liking how this is going, but thinking about some amber tint for the neck and board, to contrast with the white. What's the go to recipe?
Not sure. I'm sure both approaches are valid.
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Looks like there isn't any "amber" at the BGS. Maybe the maple? https://www.bunnings.com.au/feast-wa...stain_p1569867
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It looks very clean.
The FW Golden Teak has been used regularly on here, and someone very recently posted using the FW Maple on the neck (which I quite liked actually).
I have used the Golden Teak, and though I was happy with the end result, I couldn't seem to get the same as I've seen others get.
Maybe I didn't dilute enough, but the GT had quite a strong orange to it.
Another option is laying a base coat of Tru Oil or shellac to get a bit colour then top coating with poly.
I did this with shellac on a build last year and like the result. (I'll link the thread once I find it)
edit:
FW Golden Teak
Shellac before poly
This is the guitar I used the shellaced neck on - it shows the tint a bit better and in context.
Thanks Mick. Yep, tru oil is always an option, but it's a longer wait for the effect...
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