Purple Patch

This one is coming my way...make 7 underway.....4 nearly done.

https://www.pitbullguitars.com/shop/...itar-kit-copy/

The GTH is an Ash body with rosewood fingerboard, 2 covered humbuckers, 2 volume and 2 tone.

I have also added locking tuners, bone nut, Neck and Bridge nickel covered Entwistle HV-58 pickups.

The Real Parts order as per usual...

2 x CTS 500k Vintage style capacitors, 1 x set Schaller style strap locks (complete set), 1 x recessed jack socket chrome, 1 x switchcraft jack socket, 2 x Alpha 500k (mini) push pull pots.

Continuing with the Angelus dyes I have also ordered some Purple dye.

I will wait to see if the neck has anything resembling figure before I chose what I do with it.

But, the body will be sanded then timbermate filled. Perhaps Ebony, or Walnut, this time to highlight the figure under the dye. Then just the Purple dye all over. (I don't know how the purple will go over Walnut....but Black will be pretty straightforward.)

I have thought about doing something with the Turquoise I have used on the Blues Bandit build.....but I don't know how I will mesh them together......I have Navy Blue, Blue, Turquoise, Red, Orange, Yellow colours here....and Purple and Green in the mail. (I have a plan to try a dragon burst when the right veneer/kit appears.)

Then I have a range of Feast Watson colours and the U Beaut Water dyes. But I really like how the Angelus ones go on and sit in the wood.

Honestly, the name came from the colour.....and I think I will just do the body completely one colour in purple....the neck either a golden teak or natural colour.

Hi Ozzbike, Hope those colours will come out nice, love turquoise and purple on guitars!

Are you planning any contours on the body?

See you changed out the jack socket for the kit, (my std. Pgb kit one is noisy as) is the switchcraft one a DiMarzio socket?

Cheers, looking forward to the build updates

Thanks for the tip on Angelus leather dye. It is a LOT cheaper than Wudtone!

The best jack that I have found are the Pure Tone Mono Multicontact. I've retrofitted all of my instruments and amps with them as they are great!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RocknRolf

Hi Ozzbike, Hope those colours will come out nice, love turquoise and purple on guitars!

Are you planning any contours on the body?

See you changed out the jack socket for the kit, (my std. Pgb kit one is noisy as) is the switchcraft one a DiMarzio socket?

Cheers, looking forward to the build updates

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Thanks mate. Yeah the colour or colours will be great I think.

A mate on this forum....Wazkelly....put me onto the recessed sockets ages ago. I like their finish. But, I don’t recess them into the hole. I just ensure I get the USA sockets for switch craft jack sockets and then file the hole until the socket sits just proud of the hole with its lip resting against the edge of the guitar or bass.

Switch craft have been an industry standard jack socket for many years. I just find that they work really well.

Noisy can be many things....on my IB-4 kit the long pencil style jack socket was ridiculous....cost nearly $30 to get a better one.

Check with a different lead....try checking the socket and if it touches anything inside the hole....turning strat ones can make a huge difference. Then finally there is control cavity shielding....for single coil pickups this is really a must.

Real parts are just up the road at Peregian Beach. Check out their stock levels....comes and goes quickly.

No just standard Tele body shapes....may have to look and see if the Tele Deluxe has much happening. I am tossing up about the headstock shape....the newer deluxes are a curvy strat shape and the older ones have the nearly standard Tele shape.

I wish you luck with the builds.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by cj18

Thanks for the tip on Angelus leather dye. It is a LOT cheaper than Wudtone!

The best jack that I have found are the Pure Tone Mono Multicontact. I've retrofitted all of my instruments and amps with them as they are great!

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I have never seen nor tried one of those jacks...will have try google.

For colours these Angelus dyes are magic. For wood tones I still very much like Feast Watson proof tint from the big green shed.

I have not really had much success with water based dyes...through my errors. The F.W and Angelus stuff works great under Cabots spray Polyurethane.

I like the F.W. Colours under my oils and wax finishes too.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ozzbike

Thanks mate. Yeah the colour or colours will be great I think.

A mate on this forum....Wazkelly....put me onto the recessed sockets ages ago. I like their finish. But, I don’t recess them into the hole. I just ensure I get the USA sockets for switch craft jack sockets and then file the hole until the socket sits just proud of the hole with its lip resting against the edge of the guitar or bass.

Switch craft have been an industry standard jack socket for many years. I just find that they work really well.

Noisy can be many things....on my IB-4 kit the long pencil style jack socket was ridiculous....cost nearly $30 to get a better one.

Check with a different lead....try checking the socket and if it touches anything inside the hole....turning strat ones can make a huge difference. Then finally there is control cavity shielding....for single coil pickups this is really a must.

Real parts are just up the road at Peregian Beach. Check out their stock levels....comes and goes quickly.

No just standard Tele body shapes....may have to look and see if the Tele Deluxe has much happening. I am tossing up about the headstock shape....the newer deluxes are a curvy strat shape and the older ones have the nearly standard Tele shape.

I wish you luck with the builds.

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Thanks, good tip on the All parts shop That is only 5 mins away!

Yeah, I have been playing this guitar for the last year (including shielding etc.) and somehow the buzz got worse. It happens as I twist the cable in the socket.
- So I ordered a new cable, but that didn't help.
- Then I pulled the Jack out and bent the contact point in for a better more firm connection, better, but still too much noise.

Looking at the design of cj18's proposed Pure tone multi-contact, it is a superior design over the kit jack, might be worth the upgrade for $9.

Thanks for your tips, before I order anything I'll go over everything one more time.

I'm a convert to PureTone jack sockets. Far better than the Switchcraft ones (good as they are). With the Switchcraft style, you can use a stereo jack (with the S and R wired to ground) to provide more support for the jack plug shaft (and some of my friends have been doing that for a long time on their guitars), but the PureTone sockets provide even more support and the jack simply doesn't move when wiggled.

I did a review here: https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...ad.php?t=10122

Thanks Simon, super helpful! And sorry Ozzbike did not mean to take over your thread[emoji4].

Simon -- I think that review might have been the reason that I decided to give them a go in the first place :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by cj18

Simon -- I think that review might have been the reason that I decided to give them a go in the first place :)

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Me too. I am convert as well.

If only I was on commission!

For the Aussies seeking these jack sockets....we have a distributor. I just ordered five.

https://www.kronig.com.au/

Let us see how they go.

Thanks Simon

Guys and Girls,

This morning I was slaving away over a nearly complete Ash Body P Bass when my phone rang. It was PBG customer service calling me offering to help me out with a current order I had made for this build.

Ben, explored options available to me to allow me to receive a complete kit I can build right now. We settled on an outcome and the hole thing was done.

I have recently had reason to deal with medical professionals who were receiving thousands of dollars in payment from me, medicare, and BUPA, yet I could not even get them to answer the phone or respond to a text or email with a simple query.

I stopped all payments and suddenly I was their best friend.

Back to PBG. I thank the guys for the calls, emails and advice about shortfalls in orders and better choices for a kit build.

We are on a winner here guys, spread the word. I love this place.

If you don't understand something, or want a special order, ask them....they will help.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ozzbike

For the Aussies seeking these jack sockets....we have a distributor. I just ordered five.

https://www.kronig.com.au/

Let us see how they go.

Thanks Simon

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Ordered Wednesday, just received.

Ps. For anyone who is yet to order, check my picture for 15%discount.

Ps. I ordered through eBay for better shipping. (free).

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...f223b2f0b8.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RocknRolf

Ordered Wednesday, just received.

Ps. For anyone who is yet to order, check my picture for 15%discount.

Ps. I ordered through eBay for better shipping. (free).

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...f223b2f0b8.jpg

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I ordered mine on Wednesday and got them today as well....I also got one of those cards for later use.

Just installed mine and it is soo much better then a normal jack plug. Thanks Simon!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RocknRolf

Ordered Wednesday, just received.

Ps. For anyone who is yet to order, check my picture for 15%discount.

Ps. I ordered through eBay for better shipping. (free).

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...f223b2f0b8.jpg

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I was a little surprised that EBay might have been cheaper. So I did some research....my order of 5 jack sockets and freight was $44.40 from Kronig direct. 5 sockets from E Bay would have been $75.00.

Normally sellers look after you if buy from them direct....note to check all options for the future.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ozzbike

I was a little surprised that EBay might have been cheaper. So I did some research....my order of 5 jack sockets and freight was $44.40 from Kronig direct. 5 sockets from E Bay would have been $75.00.

Normally sellers look after you if buy from them direct....note to check all options for the future.

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Interesting, for a single jack ebay was cheaper, I did Check through their website too. Always good to compare!

When I looked, the stereo jack was cheaper than the mono on eBay.

I just grabbed two mono jacks and a barrel jack from them direct, and it was already a pretty good deal. Using the code above, it was $40 shipped.

Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk

Postie Parcel dude knocks on the door and I get a big grin. A nice Tele kit has arrived. One thing I did notice....no neck screw holes in the body....first for me...that I can remember. Opens a three point rounded neck mount as an option....maybe.....or not.

Rounded neck plate? Why not?

The Hexacaster is getting a 4-hole rounded one, in the style of the latest US Strats and Teles.

Wow,

One coat only of Angelus purple leather dye. Very Purple.

I found that the Angelus dye was VERY dark on Ash.
I am sanding mine back & going to try it diluted with the neutral.
https://angelusdirect.com/products/neutral-leather-dye

None more purple.

Is that just straight purple on the ash, or did you get round to doing dark timbermate first?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Cliff Rogers

I found that the Angelus dye was VERY dark on Ash.
I am sanding mine back & going to try it diluted with the neutral.
https://angelusdirect.com/products/neutral-leather-dye

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I have watched a video where the Big D fellow warns that purple is the only Angelus dye he only does one coat.

I did not dilute it...just one nice coat.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Simon Barden

None more purple.

Is that just straight purple on the ash, or did you get round to doing dark timbermate first?

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One coat of Ebony timbermate after 180 grit...sanded 240, 320 and 400 and the one only coat of purple.

Deep purple.... 😎

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Simon Barden

Rounded neck plate? Why not?

The Hexacaster is getting a 4-hole rounded one, in the style of the latest US Strats and Teles.

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I have decided to just go standard neck joint on this one.

You certainly wouldn't want to have to sand part of the body now!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Simon Barden

You certainly wouldn't want to have to sand part of the body now!

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Simon, it has now been sprayed and sanded up to 800 grit paper.....the finish and depth of grain coming through the colour is amazing. I will continue spraying at a pattern of 3 x coats 10 minutes apart every two days, interspersed with a wet sand at progressively finer grits until I get to either 1200 or 1500. Then I will let it hang for 7 to 14 days and then start the end wet sand at 2000, compound, polish, wax and sealer....all by hand.

On this one I don't care if the grain gets covered or not. I want close to a glass like finish with the wood figure coming through a nice deep purple tone.....pun intended....and so far it is happening. :)

EDIT:-

I don't know about other places in the world, but finding some grades of sandpaper is getting tough around me. Some bright sparks online have started to charge like $4-00 (AUD) a sheet for 1500 and 2000 grit norton wet n dry paper.

I hear that Supercheap auto still has a range up to 2000. I will be checking tomorrow.

Just don't get 'lazy' and 'burn' through the finish because 'you can't do it right'. That would be a real 'stormbringer' of bad emotions. Don't pretend it won't, 'you fool no one'.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ozzbike

I don't know about other places in the world, but finding some grades of sandpaper is getting tough around me. Some bright sparks online have started to charge like $4-00 (AUD) a sheet for 1500 and 2000 grit norton wet n dry paper.

I hear that Supercheap auto still has a range up to 2000. I will be checking tomorrow.

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Yep, it's hit and miss at SCA as well. The two times I've been (to two different stores), both times I've grabbed the last piece of 2000.

I always get my sandpapers online now, normally through Amazon.

Windy, rainy and thunder here today. So bored me stepped away from the punishment of tieing shoe laces. (All hale the master....weirdy. :) )

I hope I am allowed back into the fold Weirdy. I did this one all on my own.

The ToneRider pickups are wired a little different to kit pickups and even Seymour Duncan. So I had to interpret the wiring diagrams of SD and TR to get an end result. Screwdriver tapping indicates that she does.

Tonerider pickups, coil split with push pull volume pots and full size CTS tone pots. Orange drop 0.0223uf capacitors, switchcraft jack. I used the wiring to and from the three way toggle that came with the kit. (This toggle feels quite sturdy to me and is a lot better feeling than the box type. It seems to pivot vertically across contacts in the middle.) The rest except the green wire for the bridge ground, is vintage push back wire.

Seymour Duncan have that great tool.....

https://www.seymourduncan.com/resour...iring-diagrams

Just pick the nature of your install...and away you go.

ToneRider offer a number of PDF style diagrams at the bottom of each page for each pickup style.

https://tonerider.com/product/alnico...v=6cc98ba2045f

The two I mixed through.

EDIT:- Did you notice the difference? The Seymour Duncan diagram has the pickups come in to the push pull switch on different sides of the switch. The Tone Rider has each push poll pot wired exactly the same. I think the SD one gives you the screw coil on both pickups as the split one. Ideas???

The diagrams are electrically equivalent and will give exactly the same sounds.

The two sides of the push/pull switches are identical and isolated from each other, so you can happily swap which side the wires are are taken to. For extra robustness, I’d suggest linking the two sides of the switch so the contacts are duplicated.

Otherwise, for the tone pot arrangement, the Tonerider diagram has the cap linked to the volume pot and then the pot track and then to ground, whilst the SD has the pot track linked to the volume pot and then the capacitor and then the ground. With a capacitor and resistor in series, it doesn’t matter which goes first. The end result is exactly the same. Having the capacitor as the link between the pots is a good idea when using physically large caps like orange drops, with nice thick wire legs. If using the typical small ceramic disk caps supplied with the kits, with their much thinner wire legs, then having them connected to the back of the pot is a better position for them IMO.

The coil you get when you split the coils will depend on how each manufacturer has wired up their pickups, so you definitely need a comparison chart. But using the Tonerider one, the SD diagram will give you the slug coil, the Tonerider diagram will give you the screws. To swap the selected split coil, you swap the hot and ground wires over, so for the Toneriders, green would then go to ground and red to the volume pot lug in order to get the slug coil as the working split coil. But you’d have to do this to both pickups otherwise if you only did one, the both-on humbucker selection would be out of phase.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Simon Barden

The diagrams are electrically equivalent and will give exactly the same sounds.

The two sides of the push/pull switches are identical and isolated from each other, so you can happily swap which side the wires are are taken to. For extra robustness, I’d suggest linking the two sides of the switch so the contacts are duplicated.

Otherwise, for the tone pot arrangement, the Tonerider diagram has the cap linked to the volume pot and then the pot track and then to ground, whilst the SD has the pot track linked to the volume pot and then the capacitor and then the ground. With a capacitor and resistor in series, it doesn’t matter which goes first. The end result is exactly the same. Having the capacitor as the link between the pots is a good idea when using physically large caps like orange drops, with nice thick wire legs. If using the typical small ceramic disk caps supplied with the kits, with their much thinner wire legs, then having them connected to the back of the pot is a better position for them IMO.

The coil you get when you split the coils will depend on how each manufacturer has wired up their pickups, so you definitely need a comparison chart. But using the Tonerider one, the SD diagram will give you the slug coil, the Tonerider diagram will give you the screws. To swap the selected split coil, you swap the hot and ground wires over, so for the Toneriders, green would then go to ground and red to the volume pot lug in order to get the slug coil as the working split coil. But you’d have to do this to both pickups otherwise if you only did one, the both-on humbucker selection would be out of phase.

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I have used the SD diagram more than the TR one. I just matched the hot, ground etc wires. It will be interesting to see how it sounds upon completion. I have identified the wires as per the Tone Rider diagram, which entailed that I had to uncover the black and white wires, and solder it up as per the SD diagram. I even did the opposite side thing.....and I added ground wires to all pots in a square after the pics were taken.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dozymuppet

Yep, it's hit and miss at SCA as well. The two times I've been (to two different stores), both times I've grabbed the last piece of 2000.

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I managed to get 4 x 1200, 4 x 1500 and 4 x 2000 at $1.49 per piece....cheaper than the Big Green Shed. The boxes on the shelf were all over the place.....I reckon they would go fast.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Simon Barden

Just don't get 'lazy' and 'burn' through the finish because 'you can't do it right'. That would be a real 'stormbringer' of bad emotions. Don't pretend it won't, 'you fool no one'.

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One of the reasons I did not make the curved neck pocket.

This is another one that is done......so easy to play...badly in my case...:)