Printable View
I'm building an AIB-1Q kit and am confused about the bridge. It's a hardtail with what seems to be holes for string through or top load.
Attachment 38919 Attachment 38920
I'm reluctant to drill string through holes on this one (body is slightly contoured and I've never done string through before- I'll save my first attempt for a flat bodied tele or something) and I'm perfectly happy to do top loading.
Is this bridge top load compatible?
The saddles look like they are intended for the strings coming up from the bottom but pretty sure I've seen top loading squire strats with similar bridge & saddles. I've used similar on a tele and it works.
Also remember that if you want to go through body, you'll need some string end ferrules which aren't supplied in the kit.
I'm building the same kit and went with a Gotoh through body bridge and ferrules.
How was drilling through? Was it pretty straightforward?
You might want to be careful with the top load. The way those lower holes are positioned, you might foul the body with the ball ends and create some damage.
If it were my build, I would be working out a plan for the string through, possibly setting up to rout a channel on the rear to give you a flat landing point for the ferrules.
I'm also building the same kit, and have bought a couple other "affordable" string through bridges to try out.
Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk
I'm still waiting for the bridge parts to arrive so haven't installed it yet. The guitar body is pretty flat where the bridge sits and at the back where the ferrules go so hoping it's not too challenging ;)
I'll give it a fit sometime to see whether the ball ends will cause issues. If they do, I think I'll have to do string through...
I'll keep an eye on your build diary dozy, but I don't think I'll need a new bridge as this one does have string through holes.
Part of the reason I sought out something else was for palm-muting. The kit bridge didn't strike me as very comfortable in that regard.
Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk
That's true, i had a similar issue on another build. I solved it by gently filing the top end of the screws. Not completely solved, but a lot better than before
Not sure if these are any good for a contoured body, but a Ferrule Plate might be worth a go if you are concerned about lining up string trough holes.
Attachment 38925
On eBay for about $15.00
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/String-F...frcectupt=true
Diggy, I did a string though on my first attempt with no problem. I found the largest drill bit that would fit through the holes in the bridge and used the bridge as a guide to start the holes on the face in the right position. Once I had them started (1mm -2mm deep) I used a drill block to drill them all half way through the body. Then I drilled both e strings all the way through and used the bridge on the back side to pick up the position of the e strings and align the remaining string at the same way.
The key is to get the entry points on the faces nice and even and the bridge can be a guide for that. If they’re a bit wonky in the middle of the body no one will see.
Just be sure the centre to centre string spacing is a correct match for your bridge on these before you buy.Quote:
Originally Posted by robin
Whilst it is likely to be 52.5mm E to E, I didn't see anywhere on the listing that states what it is.
Another good tip on top of what HereIsJT said, is to get some solid wood about 15mm thick about roughly the size of the bridge. I used some 80mm wide hardwood decking cut into 50mm strips. Practice drilling the string and bridge mounting holes on it. When you've got it perfect, do it a second time and glue the two pieces on top of each other with the holes perfectly aligned. You've now got a drill guide that you can use to get the holes right and help keep the drill bit vertical.
That's a bit brilliant.Quote:
Originally Posted by bog