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A gift from the kiddo because he wants to hear me fingerpick a 12.
Attachment 38730Attachment 38731
Experienced mild confusion re bridge and holes for strings. Duh - different to acoustic guitars, but finally figured it out. All the parts are there and seems I have stuffed up already by sanding across the binding. Last resort could rout it off with a bullnose router bit.
Any other 12 string builders out there?
That kitty seems ready to claim the box that it came in.
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BUGGER. Messing about checking bridge and bridge pickup placement. The through body holes for the strings and the routed slot for pickup match up perfectly with the bridge plate, but on measuring 12th fret to bridge I find the distance is 10 -12 mils too long. There is not enough available adjustment on the bridge so need to move 12th fret towards the body.
Options, rout a piece out of the back of the neck to move it forward in the slot, or rout out between the slot and the neck pickup slot?
Anybody else experienced this type of issue and/or any other remedies I may have overlooked?
Before you go hitting anything with the router, 10-12 mils seems like a long way off even for a kit.
Try this:
1) Adjust the treble E saddle so it's far enough forward (toward neck) so it has about 2mm of adjustment screw thread exposed into the string lot of the saddle)
2) Now measure your scale length from the inside of the nut to the break point of the treble E saddle. Forget about the 12th fret x 2 thing you may have read.
3)Report back after that.
You've mentioned a router in 2 out of your first 4 posts already. Step away from the router! :o
I'm not saying there won't be a need for it at some point, but most initial issues with these & other kits can be remedied with less drastic measures.
Thanks for your reply, McCreed. Okay - adjusted the saddle screws to 2mm. Measurement nut to treble E is 654 and to bass E is 656. Nut to 12th fret is 323.
Routers always last resort.
This has been on the back burner while house renovations etc took over. Intend getting back into it February.
https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...ead.php?t=9068
I'll be watching your progress and hopefully revive my thread.
Edit ...
Sh*t, I just noticed it's been a little over 2 years since I've touched this project and close to 3 since the kit arrived. I'm sure this isn't a record but I'm now keeping company with the slackers :(
648mm is the magic number (on paper) so you're getting closer.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren
Another thing to check, where a mil or two may be lost is whether or not the butt of the heel is fully mating up to the end of the pocket. Sometimes the corners of the heel may need sanding or filing to allow proper fitting.
Lastly, the point on the saddle to measure to is the "break point" which is last point which the string makes contact with the groove on the saddle. Right where the string "leaves" or "breaks" from the saddle. So you're not measuring from physical end of the saddle block or inside of the slot in the saddle block. That difference in measuring point can easily make up or loose 2mm.
Sorry if I'm telling you stuff you already know. I'm just trying to be thorough and making some assumptions as you noted it's your first build. These kits a generally very good, but are not "Ikea" and do require some finessing here & there.
FWIW, on some of my guitars, the treble E's intonation point ranges from 647 to 651. Not every instrument is going be exactly bang on 648. There are multiple variables and some are simply inexplicable.
From bodge central: You can also get some slightly longer machine screws for the 2 higher strings.
edit: Not so much as a bodge, but 3 Trem-Kings have all come with a few extra length machine screws that momentarily had me scratching my head. (what are these for?)
cheers, Mark.
Butt is mated up solid and straight. Measurement is to the break point. Yes getting a little closer, within wood rasp and 80 grit realms?
Ok, that's good. You still at 656mm?
Given the string-through holes are pre-dirilled, Mark's suggestion of longer intonation screws is a solid, non-invasive option.
There has been a history of TL kits (not all) having bridge position issues, but usually involving the bridge pickup route preventing the bridge placement for correct intonation. Generally only around 5mm or so. When you're initial report was 10-12mm, it was red flag for me, thus prompting me to off the advice above.
Now that you've worked through the points I suggested, and at least gained (or lost?) about half what you needed, the longer screws is probably your best bet.
You should only need longer screws for the E & B saddles as the rest of the strings will intonate further back then those two, but may need them for all 6.
Keep us posted!
Edit to add:
The intonation adjustment screw size are M3 x .5 x (length) - probably need 20-25mm
Hey McCreed and Mark, thanks to you both for the assistance and suggestions. Still 654 at treble E and 654 on the bass E so off to the bearing and bolt shop on the hunt for the longer M3's.
A fastener supply shop likely won't have chrome ones like guitar parts suppliers, but you'll probably be able to stainless steel, which is not a bad thing. It's not like there highly visible anyway.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren
Scored a few 20 mil screws - and swapped a coupe over. The nut to treble E break point is now 650 -651. Another foray and wangled some 25 mil screws but will need longer springs so grabbed a box of mixed ones for $10 and just maybe there will be something in there I can use.
Another query. In the notch in the body to take the neck someone has written 640 in pencil. Is this significant?
Also - am attaching a pic of the neck, body, bridge and scratch plate --- . I was under the impression that we should not see and timber between end of the neck and the bridge plate. Opinions please. Thanks Mark and McCreed. Attachment 38869
If you mean between the pickguard and the bridge plate, that gap is pretty common, even on genuine Fender Telecasters.Quote:
I was under the impression that we should not see and timber between end of the neck and the bridge plate.
The gap on the real deal tends to be slightly less but it existence is not irregular. The gap on PBG kits tends to be wider and can vary from guitar to guitar.
I'll reiterate that PBG kits are generally very good (especially at their price point) but none are perfect or flawless. All require troubleshooting and outside thinking to more or lesser degrees.
the 25 mil screws plus longer springs did the trick. 648 easy. Thanks for the assistance.
Good to hear. FWIW the spare screws that came with the Trem-King.
Attachment 38875
cheers, Mark.
Same or similar. That was a good tip. Thanks.