No. 35 is alive...and ordered.

I have taken the plunge and ordered number 35 today. I have ordered the bass kit with the only upgrade being a bone nut.

https://www.pitbullguitars.com/shop/...-guitar-kit-2/

The Tele Bass kit.

I am going to try and make it like this one here....a Squier.

https://shop.fender.com/en-AU/squier...325202506.html

I have seen two things so far that may challenge me.

1. The yellow colour of the neck...I have not scored well on this in the past.

2. The Squier has a unique wiring setup on the 3 way switch plate. It will be fun getting same or similar tones as they get.

Plan...Spray can Black gloss paint body.....yellow translucent stain on the neck....with some sort of clear over the top...Tru Oil or polyurethane....or spray can clear I don't know.

The Squier has a classic/vintage style bridge. I may have to source one of these.

Order is in....and now some painting learning and buying of stuff to do it. :)

Look forward to seeing what you come up with. You've certainly had "good luck" ;) with your prior finishes.

Thanks McCreed, but I don't have that confidence. I have done one previous guitar with spray paint and it did not go well.

I have been chasing a couple of things online today. I found a wiring diagram that other T Bass builders have used....an Esquire wiring pattern. This appears to use the three position switch. But it needs a single resistor....that is fun to find. Also it uses 2 x 0.050uf caps and a standard 0.047uf cap. Are the 0.05uf caps different, and where am I going to find them? The resistor on the diagram is a 3.3k ohm resistor....I can find one that is rated for 1 watt....but no voltage details....and it is blue and not a cream/yellow colour. I enjoy wiring but serious electronics is beyond my skills.

Also the bridge I can find on E-bay...for a Squier apparently....but it is a string through design only.

The piccy above (in my first post) has a two brass shared saddle design, but with a back end on the bridge for a string from the back of the bridge design.

I may have to just use the Chrome with Brass four saddles Wilkinson Bridge I like.

I think it is time for some YouTube clips on using spray cans to paint a guitar.

I would like.....a gloss sealed body. A clear poly...or perhaps my normal oil/wax finish over a coloured translucent amber/yellow neck and fingerboard.

Body:-

(The plan in my head and the questions I hope I can answer from you guys and YouTube....thank you if I can pick your brains.)

The kit write up says the body is Basswood....so the figure is not something I will really need to keep to come through my normal colour and oil/wax finish.

I want to smooth it out.....fill the pores....probably prime the body. Then a base coat of BLACK...maybe three coats of that...then three coats or so of a nice gloss top coat.

Sanding is no chore for me....I enjoy the calm it brings me. But, I normally stop at 240 and then it is steel wool and oil and then wax. So with this do I pore fill at 180 grit...then sand the timbermate off at 240, and then keep going through the grits? When do I look at primer...how many coats...do I sand it...wet or dry...to what grit...600? The a base coat of Black...is it better to use a flat black or a gloss black, as I would intend to use a clear gloss top coat? How many coats of that black? Do I sand between each or after so many? Wet or Dry...what grade say 800?

Oh and the big one...what paint do I use...lacquer...enamel...acrylic?

Then how many clear coats? I know it will need to be sanded as high as I can go. I have the little foam squares guitar sanding kit from the sandpaper man that goes to about 3000 grit I think.

Final step would be auto polish and then wax.

(I wonder how hard and tough are the 2K cans of clear to use?)

The Neck:-

I have some yellow water based stain from U-Beaut and some Amber colortone stain from Stewmac. I like the finish Tru Oil gives, and I like the gloss result you can get with it. But, I don't know how a fretboard in Tru-Oil will last. I suppose no worse than the maple boards I have here now finished in just oil/wax. They seem okay.

I think I will try the yellow stain as Tru Oil puts its own amber tone over things...amber over amber will just be brown.

I have some Fender headstocks (templates) and I will have to have a look if they include a T bass....or maybe I will have to stretch a six string guitar one.

Off to YouTube time. :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ozzbike

I have been chasing a couple of things online today. I found a wiring diagram that other T Bass builders have used....an Esquire wiring pattern. This appears to use the three position switch. But it needs a single resistor....that is fun to find. Also it uses 2 x 0.050uf caps and a standard 0.047uf cap. Are the 0.05uf caps different, and where am I going to find them? The resistor on the diagram is a 3.3k ohm resistor....I can find one that is rated for 1 watt....but no voltage details....and it is blue and not a cream/yellow colour. I enjoy wiring but serious electronics is beyond my skills.

---

You can get resistors and caps for guitars from a few places in Australia. Jaycar will have them if there is a store near you. They also sell online but it's a minimum $8 postage which kills small orders. DIY Guitar Pedals have reasonable postage rates and they stock a good range of resistor and capacitor values/types.
Edit: There is of course Real Parts. I am not sure of their postage rates.

The blue resistor (metal film) is actually better than the cream/yellow ones (carbon film) in many respects. It's a different composition which has more accurate values. I always use metal film in my pedal builds.

The 0.05uF caps are different amount of capacitance, but if the circuit definitely has 0.047 and 0.050 uF caps, then they are effectively the same value. This is because the difference is a bit over 6% from the 0.047 to the 0.050, and standard caps can have 10 to 20% variation in values. You might get some small changes in the tone response depending on which values you use.

Finally 1 watt is quite high for a resistor. The smallest tend to be 1/4 watt which should be more than enough in a guitar. You wouldn't get anywhere near 1 watt. There is no harm in using a 1 watt resistor if you like the larger size, but it's not required electrically.

I hope that helps a bit.

I didn't think the wattage rating of a resistor should matter in a guitar, as it's the maximum the component can handle (and a guitar pickup shouldn't be putting out anything like one watt?). Resistors come in lots of different colours, so the Ohm rating is what you want to check.

As for the 0.05uF, I'm curious to hear what others have to say. I understood that cap tolerances could be out by 10 or even 20%, which would mean a 0.047uF is likely to work just as well?

Otherwise, they definitely exist: https://www.guitaraust.com.au/body/e...er-0-05uf.html (although these are huge)

Regarding painting a basswood body with a solid colour, there is a fairly good description from Sonic on the first page of my build diary.

I ended up using SCA filler-primer, Duplicolor metallic blue, and SCA clear. All automotive acrylic lacquers. I have been distracted by getting the neck done, so my tele body is now at the 6 week mark since spraying the clear coat and I haven't polished yet. Might try to get to it next weekend.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by JohnH

I didn't think the wattage rating of a resistor should matter in a guitar, as it's the maximum the component can handle (and a guitar pickup shouldn't be putting out anything like one watt?). Resistors come in lots of different colours, so the Ohm rating is what you want to check.

As for the 0.05uF, I'm curious to hear what others have to say. I understood that cap tolerances could be out by 10 or even 20%, which would mean a 0.047uF is likely to work just as well?

Otherwise, they definitely exist: https://www.guitaraust.com.au/body/e...er-0-05uf.html (although these are huge)

---

Personally, I don't think that 0.05 is going to make any practical difference to 0.047 given the large tolerance on most caps. Even if you had very high precision caps (<5% tolerance) the difference in the frequency filter is not going to be that much anyway. I am assuming the diagram is for a standard tone control and a treble-bleed mod.

jugglindan is way more knowledgeable than me in the electronics end of things (and everything he explained is pretty much the extent of my knowledge :o) but exactly what I would have said. So you got that covered.

The only I'll add is about the hardware. IMO you're better off with the Wilkinson bridge because when it come to intonation, 4 individual saddles is going to more accurate than a 2 x 2.
The 3 x 2 saddles on Tele 6 strings has always been my least favourite thing about them. I know purists will say "blah-blah-blah, etc-etc" and I know tricks to get them well intonated, but really? Why?
Enough of my rant...

As for painting, phrozin is the man!
There's lots more info in the forum, but here's a good start:

Scroll down to #33

Not a treble bleed, but a fixed tone roll-off. It's going to be pretty bassy, so you may want to try some smaller value capacitors. remember that the Esquire circuit was trying to replicate a bass guitar in the third position, so almost all the treble is rolled off. The tone control is disconnected, but you get the normal tone capacitor and the position 3 tone capacitor wired in series with an other 0.05/0.047uF capacitor and a 3.3k resistor. As the caps are the same basic value, that halves the overall capacitance value, so it's like a tone control with a 0.025uF capacitor but with the tone pot turned almost all the way down, with only 3.3k resistance in circuit between it and the output signal. Compare that 3.3k to the normal 250k when the tone control is in circuit and up fully, and you can see how bassy the sound is going to be. As you are starting off with a bass sound, not a guitar, you may loose far too much definition with those values, and a march larger value resistor may be better here.

Position 1 will give you a brighter tone than normal with a volume control and no tone control in circuit, position 2 your normal volume and tone control and 3 your volume but that fixed really bassy sound. Position 3 sounded really bad on the Esquire (I rewired a Tele that had vintage wiring similar to the Eqsuire and that position was pure mud). So you may want to ditch the extra capacitor and just keep the resistor there, but chose a value that suits you. You could hold off getting that resistor and first try out selecting a tone control position that you think useable, measure the pot value at that setting, and get a similar resistor value.

Or even fit a mini 250k pot inside the cavity wired in the resistor position, so you can pre-set but still be able to adjust the fixed tone.

I didn't realise the Esquire wiring was so complex. If it was me I would just use position 2 and adjust tone as needed.

Brighter is always an option, especially with the more powerful early Tele pickups that had a less bright/more middly sound than later pickups had. And with a bass, it is always a decent option.

But yes, the fixed bass sound wasn't a popular choice. But it was the first days of the electric guitar and they were trying to make it versatile. They didn't know how things were going to develop. band-wise, they were trying to guess. No P-Bass around at the time, so they were expecting guitar players to fill-in as bass players if necessary.

It is a Single Coil P-Bass, this is the wiring.

https://www.seymourduncan.com/images...s_1S_1V_1T.jpg

I am tempted to build one with a Nordstrand 51P4S Hum-Cancelling pickup.
https://nordstrandaudio.com/collecti...hum-cancelling

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Cliff Rogers

It is a Single Coil P-Bass, this is the wiring.

---

Except of you look at the picture of the kit, you'll note that its controls are routed as per a Telecaster (no idea why though) and comes with a Tele control plate and 3-way switch. So you either go Esquire-style controls or else you get a blank Tele control plate and drill it for your own control arrangement or you get a 2- knob P-bass control plate, fill in the control rout as necessary to fit that and do a solid colour finish.

Do wake up at the back! ;)

I spent some time on You Tube...and after reading much from your posts...thank you.

Jaycar for the win...thanks Jugglindan. :)

I had a walking tour of both Supercheap and The Big Green Shed this morning. Lots of options.

I had a read of Sonicmountain and phrozn threads about painting...poly etc from spray cans.

Cliff...don't take Simon too serious mate he can be a little short on the fuse. I myself made a similar observation and even posted on another thread that this kit looked a lot like a Telecaster guitar refashioned to be a Bass. Then I saw the Squier Vintage Modified Tele Bass in Black and a light Amber neck/fretboard. This kit is not like the single coil 51 Precision Bass copy...it is like the Squier.

The 51 has a different pick guard and a different chrome control cover strip. This one has a three position lever switch that appears to give minimum control differences. I think Simon is not alone in suggesting that adopting the Fender Esquire wiring diagram gives lots of tonal options.

My thinking right now:-

Supercheap car stuff for the body....sca primer filler, Duplicolour Gloss Black, SCA Gloss clear coat.

Neck is a toss up....but leaning towards...an extremely light amber colortone dye coat...then possible the Cabots gloss poly in a spray can....loved that finish on Sonic Mountains Black Strat....and clear coat neck.

But....I like the finish I can get with Tru-Oil and I am tempted to stay with what I have used a lot.....hmmmm.

Oh well back to work in the morning and hopefully the rain stops and the kit comes in the mail.

Thanks all for suggestions.

EDIT:- I did a google search and an Ebay search for a Squier Vintage Modified Black Tele Bass....wow oh wow they are expensive. Around the $1000-00 AUD mark....ouch. Time to build my own I think.

Here are a couple of options to look at to use the switch to change the tone.

http://www.gretsch-talk.com/data/att...4b87abad63.jpg

https://www.tdpri.com/attachments/el...re-jpg.150255/

I am back to work again tomorrow. The way Aussie Post is messing with their staff I did not think the guitar would arrive today.....well I am wrong. I got a text saying it is onboard for delivery. Nice.

Off to the Green Shed and the Red car store....as I left the green shed my crusty old Holden crewman ute began to splutter and fart. It has done this before...and it was an ignition coil pack and a spark plug. I had my ALDI cheapie OBDII code reader in the car. Stop and hook it up and clear the codes....nope same thing. Cylinder 3 misfire. Last time it was Cylinder 4.

Oh well off to the Red Shed...they had my past purchase on their computer and gave me a coil pack and plug to match...yes I know I should do the lot...but I have paint to buy for the guitar. Can't do both....well I can...but it is not as good a story.

So I got some paper, some carbothane, a paint mask, primer, base coat, clear coat.

My mate is the parcel guy...so it will be here today....silly bugger stays out each day until he is done...can be some late nights for him.

These are part of the collection......(pics below)

One question......I have loads of Timbermate here....I intend to use the Cedar/Blackwood on the neck and fingerboard prior to stain and then the gloss Carbothane.

Is there any reason I cannot level the body out with it as well? I read the paint can, the Timbermate pot, and neither says you can't.

I also have some Feast Watson Sanding Sealer....not a fan of that stuff it sets like an epoxy. It does not say it can't be used under paint, but does speak mostly about stains. It does say it is interior only....guitar...interior....same thing to me.

Or, is the spray filler primer enough if I sand it well to 320grit?

Interior mainly indicates that it's not weatherproof and will not stand up to long exposure to UV and moisture. Timbermate is interior grade stuff only as it will start to dissolve and wash away when wet. But unless you plan to mount the guitar outside as a garden ornament, it's fine for normal guitar use.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Simon Barden

Interior mainly indicates that it's not weatherproof and will not stand up to long exposure to UV and moisture. Timbermate is interior grade stuff only as it will start to dissolve and wash away when wet. But unless you plan to mount the guitar outside as a garden ornament, it's fine for normal guitar use.

---

My thoughts.....and no aspirations for a Tele pond or fountain here. :)

Just the Strat-shaped swimming pool.

My mate dropped her off just before 6.00 tonight.

The body and neck have no real flash figure to speak of, so a painted body is not going to cause any great loss.

The heel of the neck is rounded and not finished that well.....the body has a square cut to the neck pocket. But the neck itself fits into the width of the pocket very well. I will have to square the end off with sanding I think.

The 3 position switch is one of the box like jobs.....hmmm.....I think I at least have an Oak-Grigsby here somewhere.
The four nice big elephant ear tuners are a big step up from some other kit ones I have seen. The 3 ply black and white pickguard is well cut.

The Bone nut was tucked away in the neck bag....safely ensconced in the electronics pack now.

Well time to pack up to go back to work.....You Tube and reading time for me.

I think I will sand to my normal 180 grit then Timbermate the body.....sand through 240 to 320 then some filler primer and sand to 400 and see what I have looking at me then.

The neck I will do similar to 180 then timbermate and sand to 240...then decals....dry....and then the carbothane. See how that stuff goes. I have never used it before. Sonic Mountain spoke about putting it on thick....I will give that try....then leave it to pass the sniff test.

I found my micro-mesh guitar pack....so sand with that after a few coats of the carbothane.

Anybody know if the carbothane, being polyurethane/varnish and oil based, will amber or brown the finish a little? I am still thinking of doing a light coat of Vintage Amber......or maybe straight Lemon Yellow U-Beaut stain. hmmmmm hard choices.

...and the back of the body.

Phrozin is the paint man, he does not have good words for timbermate under paint.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Cliff Rogers

Phrozin is the paint man, he does not have good words for timbermate under paint.

---

I have seen the rant...not that this is a bad thing. But I have also seen that he prefers epoxy or CA, and sadly I hate them both equally.

The other option for me, as listed above, is the dreaded Feast Watson Sanding Sealer. It is not really a filler or leveler, rather just a sealer of the surface. But, the crap sets like shitty old epoxy glue and is a pain to sand.

I have done much internet searching, Youtube viewing and I see that a product called "Wood Filler" is widely endorsed as a pore fill option for wood surfaces prior to paint. I have even seen more than one person that used said "Wood Filler" having watered it down to the point it becomes a paste. This is exactly how I use Timbermate...diluted with water to a thick custard, thick shake consistently.

I would compare Timbermate and its water based brethren to a water based version of car body-filler or "BOG." I think I will treat Timbermate and the use of it in a similar manner to BOG. I will apply it...let it dry thoroughly...sand it properly...then dust it off...wax and grease remover it down...tack rag again...leave at least overnight again...then prime.

I then the sink back issue is from covering it and the wood prior to them both being completely dry. An issue not so major on a car as you have air guns, ovens etc.

I just want the flat gloss black surface the best i can with spray cans. I think I can get pretty close with the information from many who have passed before me here. But, with a selective weeding of the personal bias...and my own prejudices too.

One thing I had not thought of....but did read in either Sonics or Phrozn thread about taping edges when wet sanding.....that seem like an amazing idea....considering I blast through stain and Tru oil finishes like they are butter.

The neck colour is an issue I will have to think about. My previous made Jazz Bass has a deep tan colour now. I think I went too many coats of the Amber stain and then with the aging of the Tru Oil it has gone quite dark.

I just don't know if the Cabots aerosol poly has an aging browning effect....or being somewhat plastic will it stay clear.

Maybe shoot some onto a scrap and see what happens....hmmmmm.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Simon Barden

Just the Strat-shaped swimming pool.

---

Have you been looking over the garden fence again Simon? You will get a reputation. :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ozzbike

...
One thing I had not thought of....but did read in either Sonics or Phrozn thread about taping edges when wet sanding.....that seem like an amazing idea....considering I blast through stain and Tru oil finishes like they are butter.

The neck colour is an issue I will have to think about. My previous made Jazz Bass has a deep tan colour now. I think I went too many coats of the Amber stain and then with the aging of the Tru Oil it has gone quite dark.

I just don't know if the Cabots aerosol poly has an aging browning effect....or being somewhat plastic will it stay clear.

Maybe shoot some onto a scrap and see what happens....hmmmmm.

---

What's the edge taping trick? A bit more detail or a pointer to the thread would be awesome as I am about to wet sand and polish my tele.

I also don't know whether Cabothane spray can poly tends to yellow overtime. Because I was uncertain I ended up using clear lacquer on the neck because of the blue in the headstock decal.

As for testing on scrap timber, I guess it depends on how long you are prepared to wait before reaching a conclusion.

Have a look at this stuff.
https://armstronglutherie.com.au/aqua-coat/


http://youtu.be/oOwaSbaK15U

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jugglindan

What's the edge taping trick? A bit more detail or a pointer to the thread would be awesome as I am about to wet sand and polish my tele.

I also don't know whether Cabothane spray can poly tends to yellow overtime. Because I was uncertain I ended up using clear lacquer on the neck because of the blue in the headstock decal.

As for testing on scrap timber, I guess it depends on how long you are prepared to wait before reaching a conclusion.

---

From sonicmountains painting guide....

“Use a flat block on the flat areas and wet sand up to 2000 grit. It should look evenly dull with no major scratches. Then I use machine cutting compound and an electric buffer. I normally tape any hard edges at this point as its easy to cut through in those area. the edges and corners will buff up fine in the later stages, the machine cutting compound is mainly for the flat areas. 2 or three applications usually, followed by liquid cut and polish, then something like Meguiars Scratch X to get rid of final swirls. The last Scratch X application I use those little foam application and buffing pads - they work really well.”

Here...good thread....

https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...l=1#post187569

Another water based filler here and it can be coloured.

https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-tool...s-and-putties/

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Cliff Rogers

Have a look at this stuff.
https://armstronglutherie.com.au/aqua-coat/


http://youtu.be/oOwaSbaK15U

---

Nice option....not cheap though. Thanks.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Simon Barden

Just the Strat-shaped swimming pool.

---

Sorry mate, no Strat shape here - just a Les Pool

https://youtu.be/qFxYLoPWapk

I'd strongly suggest that the StewMac filler is rebranded Aqua Coat.

It is relatively expensive (a lot cheaper in the US though) but a tub will do 5-8 guitars depending on size and depth of grain to fill. Which as long as you are doing that many guitars (or can use it on other woodworking projects) still makes it good value for money in overall terms. I know I'll spend a several times more per guitar on other consumables like nitro paint than on the grain filler. But it isn't worth it for a single guitar.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Bakersdozen

Sorry mate, no Strat shape here - just a Les Pool

https://youtu.be/qFxYLoPWapk

---

Oh very good.

Hmmm....thinking cap here....outdoor...garden...guitar reference. Maybe just a Trelliscaster Bass I am making.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Simon Barden

I'd strongly suggest that the StewMac filler is rebranded Aqua Coat.

It is relatively expensive (a lot cheaper in the US though) but a tub will do 5-8 guitars depending on size and depth of grain to fill. Which as long as you are doing that many guitars (or can use it on other woodworking projects) still makes it good value for money in overall terms. I know I'll spend a several times more per guitar on other consumables like nitro paint than on the grain filler. But it isn't worth it for a single guitar.

---

Exactly my thoughts....not cheap...yeah I have 35 guitars here...but what if I can't use the stuff...like my misery with Feast Watson Sanding Sealer to this point.

More research on timbermate to follow. I have even watched some USA guys using it on their stain based guitar body finishes....but not a lot is mentioned with paint related finishes.

Maybe I am better served and can get the same result with just the filler primer?

First day off today....body sanded to 180 grit....neck to same.

Neck has had two coats of cedar/blackwood timber mate and is hanging now until tomorrow....cold for Queensland here today.

Tomorrow I will do both through to 240 grit....then...think a bit.

The neck and fingerboard will not be a hard decision I think. Headstock decals after a staining.....maybe even F W Golden teak...just one coat.

Then the spray Cabothane Gloss....going to read what the spray powers of Phrozn and Sonic Mountain have said about this stuff....and Jugglinden too I think.

The body.....is tricky for me....thinking about NOT doing timber mate.....sand to 320 grit...then spray primer filler time. The nature of that spraying will require some reading and thought though.

Hmmmmmm...

Hmm...three days of pain and a terrible end result.

The neck I have followed my normal process...eventually...and it sits nicely with the stain Golden Teak on it. Next week I will print the decals and stick them on and try the Cabots spray gloss.

The body....mmmm. Well let us say I will have to work out how to get the paint off and start again. The primer went on well...was sanded and looked smooth as a babies bum. Then the first spray with the Black coat....all turned to junk.

I do note that the grain in the wood, even on basswood, is clearly visible under the Black Coat. Not good. I also had a reasonable coverage and having tried the one coat horizontal, moved to the one coat vertical...and not so good...little runs all over.

To say I used the smaller words in the English language is an understatement.

So next week...sand back to bare wood and start again....this time I will use timber mate as a grain filler....then the primer...then the black colour.

I think I will try something that is a mix of all things I have read and seen....

1. Grain fill and sand to 240 grit.

2. Sand to 320 grit. Then dust off, wax and grease remover, then tack cloth.

3. One serious coat of primer, leave 15 to 20 mins, one more coat...156 to 20 mins...one last coat.

4. Leave until the next day....sand well to 400 grit. Repeat primer process with 3 coats 15 to 20 mins apart.

5. Leave until next day...sand again to 400 grit.....dust off...wax and grease remover and tack cloth.

6. One light coat of Black gloss...leave 10 mins...heavier coat of black gloss...15 to 20 mins...same weight coat.

7. Leave in my shower recess overnight.

8. Check the surface and see if it is black enough....if not...repeat previous day after a quick knock down with 600 grit and dust off, wax and grease remover and tack cloth.

9. Let hang for around 1 week.

10. Light flatten at 600/800 grit. Dust off etc.

11. Gloss coat...first one light...10 mins...heavier coat...15 to 20 mins...heavier coat. Hang over night.

12. Hit with 1500 grit...dust off....repeat sprays.

13. Hang over night....if happy...leave alone.

14. Hang for 7 days and then sniff it....no smell equals polish time.

Polish, cut, wax and seal with auto products.

I now just have to get the current finish OFF. Hmm....I have 40 and 60 grit paper....but 80 does not leave gouges like they do.....not really wanting to use paint stripper.

Oh well work calls tomorrow.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ozzbike

I have seen the rant...not that this is a bad thing. But I have also seen that he prefers epoxy or CA, and sadly I hate them both equally.

The other option for me, as listed above, is the dreaded Feast Watson Sanding Sealer. It is not really a filler or leveler, rather just a sealer of the surface. But, the crap sets like shitty old epoxy glue and is a pain to sand.

I have done much internet searching, Youtube viewing and I see that a product called "Wood Filler" is widely endorsed as a pore fill option for wood surfaces prior to paint. I have even seen more than one person that used said "Wood Filler" having watered it down to the point it becomes a paste. This is exactly how I use Timbermate...diluted with water to a thick custard, thick shake consistently.

I would compare Timbermate and its water based brethren to a water based version of car body-filler or "BOG." I think I will treat Timbermate and the use of it in a similar manner to BOG. I will apply it...let it dry thoroughly...sand it properly...then dust it off...wax and grease remover it down...tack rag again...leave at least overnight again...then prime.

I then the sink back issue is from covering it and the wood prior to them both being completely dry. An issue not so major on a car as you have air guns, ovens etc.

I just want the flat gloss black surface the best i can with spray cans. I think I can get pretty close with the information from many who have passed before me here. But, with a selective weeding of the personal bias...and my own prejudices too.

One thing I had not thought of....but did read in either Sonics or Phrozn thread about taping edges when wet sanding.....that seem like an amazing idea....considering I blast through stain and Tru oil finishes like they are butter.

The neck colour is an issue I will have to think about. My previous made Jazz Bass has a deep tan colour now. I think I went too many coats of the Amber stain and then with the aging of the Tru Oil it has gone quite dark.

I just don't know if the Cabots aerosol poly has an aging browning effect....or being somewhat plastic will it stay clear.

Maybe shoot some onto a scrap and see what happens....hmmmmm.

---

Humm a rant hey my question is why are you grain filling it anyway, you don't need to grain fill basswood, as for what I use I actually use timber mate to fill dents and deep scratches I use the white one colour it to the stain or dye, I don't use it under lacquer the thinners in the paint makes the timber mate expand then it shrinks back and it keeps doing it for a couple of months, I use lots of different things pending what finish I'm after, so I see you're an expert I remember that so get on with it

Quote:

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Originally Posted by phrozin

Humm a rant hey my question is why are you grain filling it anyway, you don't need to grain fill basswood, as for what I use I actually use timber mate to fill dents and deep scratches I use the white one colour it to the stain or dye, I don't use it under lacquer the thinners in the paint makes the timber mate expand then it shrinks back and it keeps doing it for a couple of months, I use lots of different things pending what finish I'm after, so I see you're an expert I remember that so get on with it

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Nice.

It is called venting as I got a result I was not expecting.

Expert at nothing...that would be why I am here.

...end of my rant.

Actually a little caustic of late in this place.

I think I may wish one and all well and move along.

One T Bass in the bin. 34 will be good enough to end on.

Bye.

I had noticed the same thing.