GTL-1 Second build

Darling, you know I don't have a Telecaster. "What about that?" she asked. Well, it's a chambered Tele, basically a Fibson! "What about that?" she asked. Aah, that's a Thinline, see it's got humbuckers.

After explaining the intracicies and history of the Telecaster, I got the go ahead. She knows it's about the project, and fly rods are much more expensive. So is a Cadillac Green Country Gent.

I think everyone is having a similar idea in lockdown and I'm slow off the mark - but managed to get the only available straight Telecaster kit variant left on PBG. Ash body and maple neck, with a set of Vintage Plus Toneriders on the way.

So Candy Apple Red possibly over gold body, Colortone straw and Tru Oil neck (the last one felt insanely good). I think the ambers are over the top.

White pearloid scratchplate, Gotoh bridge, Klusons curved neck plate and a tummy cut.

So a question to those much more experienced, suggestions for SuperCrap color codes for silver or gold and red if can they do a candy coat spray?

Sounds cool, I'd just go and have a look at the duplicolour rack and see what takes your fancy.

They do mix some paints on site at my SC, but I'm not sure if they do pearls or any other effects paint, you might need to go to an dedicated paint supplier. A quick google shows a couple of places such as Auto Paint Supplies in Fishwyck.

It won't be very cheap to get a can mixed up, but at the same time, you won't need much.

Thanks for the heads up. I've had spray cans mixed at SCA, touching up my old Imprezza before I gave it to a nephew.

A quick call out to anyone who has used a non-kit bridge on a Bitbull Tele! What's the spacing 10.5 (52mm) or 10.8 (54mm).

Adam is out of chrome kits and matching a 21 fret neck and ash body for me, I told him I was only going to use part of the kit. Unfortunately my RealTone cart now exceeds Wife Approval Factor.

RealTone Tele bridges are all 54mm, I bought a second Hand Squier Thinline (to replace my original 72) and the original bridge was wonky and the strings fell off the fretboard. Replaced with a Gotoh 102 (10.5mm)hardtail and it plays superbly, probably better than my original.

Paint is on it's way from a Melbourne auto paint supplier who sell on eBay. Do I have to go that route for a bridge?

PS: Anybody see a natural '72 Thinline, with a hole on the lower horn for a lefty and a neck stamped 3 DEC 72, my flatmate Kenny disappeared with around 1997!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Simon_B

A quick call out to anyone who has used a non-kit bridge on a Bitbull Tele! What's the spacing 10.5 (52mm) or 10.8 (54mm).

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Standard Fender bridge:
Attachment 34566

cheers, Mark.

Thanks Mark, that looks 52 to me. That cuts down the options basically to a Wilkinson modern.

Something arrived today, delivery time not excessive considering what Aussie post and Star Track have been going through. They were delivering to neighbours all ANZAC long weekend. I saw a Posite in a Carolla!

Attachment 34813

Since you esteemed gentlemen beat me to all the chrome kits, I overpaid. Adam owed me for a set of Grover tuners from last year and he did me a deal on the case - I tried to tell him I felt I owed him $20-30. Nice case!

The body has a really nice grain, and is pretty much perfectly bookmatched. It seems a pity to put a solid paint on it but that's the plan.

Attachment 34814

Attachment 34815

The neck has some really attractive grain as well, waiting on some StewMAc stain (Straw) from the US to give it a slight tint, I find the heavy amber too much a faux ageing effect.

Attachment 34816

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Probably the only real flaws, are firstly a gouge on the neck pocket, I'm open to suggestions as to how to fill it! I have some mahogany timbermate sfom years ago (and some ebony from the SG build) or I could go to the Green shed. Gotta go and get some sealer anyway.

Attachment 34818

Besides that there's a bump on the side between the 12th and 13th frets to sand. I'll take some measurements and may sand the neck thinner as well.

Attachment 34819

But the maple grain is fantastic on the headstock and the holes are probably straighter than I could do them!
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Congrats on your new kit! Looks good.

re: tuner hole, yes, they look good. Nice & straight, however I suggest measuring their centre to centre distances just to be sure before starting any finish. They look fine in the photo though. A little bit out isn't a problem unless your using vintage-style tuners.

Good advice - I've got a set of vinatge Klusons :)

I am doing to do a basic build before any finishing. Pretty much everything except fret dressing and small holes like pickguard screws.

The pickguard will require some adjustment.

Attachment 34825

Your gouge seems to avoid the main contact areas where the screws will go, so is reasonably cosmetic. Grain filler doesn't have much structural integrity in large amounts, so I think a normal wood filler would be best.

In terms of looks (as you should try to avoid painting in the neck pocket except around the very edges), you could consider filling the gouge, then sticking a piece of ash or maple veneer over the top. It will raise the neck up slightly, but not by much (and you can always sand the veneer even thinner first).

Typical, I ordered an assymetric neck plate off fleaBay over 3 weeks ago, supposedly from Sydney. I'd just given up on it!

Today, I decided to have a work from home break - living in the study is becoming tiresome.

Got the drill press out and decided to start the fit-up, half an hour later and before I'd put my tools away it arrived.

Attachment 34903

Not sure I can be stuffed drilling the 4mm hole out to 8mm (the smallest dowells I have on hand) and doing more shaping!

Any opinions?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Simon Barden

In terms of looks (as you should try to avoid painting in the neck pocket except around the very edges), you could consider filling the gouge, then sticking a piece of ash or maple veneer over the top. It will raise the neck up slightly, but not by much (and you can always sand the veneer even thinner first).

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Really good idea, but a lot of hassle for a hidden area! I think I'll leave it as bare primer.

I've done this mod a few times already.
Even as far as whittling away the neck area to fit in.
Attachment 34904

cheers, Mark.

I originally intended keeping it square but sloping off in a curve. The problem is the rectangular neck plate and screws is much better quality!

So I've spent 3 weeks making sawdust and getting close to painting. Although it's a pity to paint this body a solid colour.

Since I'm not using any kit parts (no chrome kits left - and I would have changed the tuners bridge and pickguard anyway) I had to make a few modifications.

I had to shim the control cavity to give the rear screw some wood to bite into with the Gotoh control plate and AllParts pickguard. I had to Dremel out the rear pickup cavity to give some intonation adjustment on the bridge. Then since the bridge is so chunky I had to take 1.5mm off the front of the neck pocket and angle it with a file to get some height adjustment on the bridge saddles.

Attachment 35307

After Timbermate grain filling with a putty knife, sanding, painting on diluted Timbermate and 2 x 2 coats of FW Sanding sealer with sanding between each step the top and back are pretty smooth after 320 grit.

My issue is I can still feel grain bumps in the body curves and roundovers. Should I do another few attempts with sanding sealer, Timbermate or just use a high build primer. I feel that the raised grain is a lot harder than the fillers and I just keep sanding bumps back in.

Attachment 35308

I've probably given the game away as to the colour!

Meanwhile the neck is almost ready for a final sand and fret dressing. I sanded the fretboard in line with the frets at 400 grit and it felt smooth. Then in line with the grain with 400 and it feels rough. I'll repeat that to 600 before I level the frets and stain / varnish.

Final fret dress after finishing - but still struggling with the Logo!

Attachment 35309

I'd give it a very light mist spray with primer or a main colour so you can then sand that back and see where the high spots and dips are. And if you use a large flat piece of wood and stick sandpaper on to it with double sided tape (or use the superglue and masking tape trick), then you should only end up sanding down the high spots first, and then everything else evenly.

If you use Timbermate under paint it will shrink.

cheers, Mark.

Most of the Timbermate got sanded off, ended up more used as a pore filler than grain filler.

Thanks Simon, I was thinking of going with a primer coat soon. My issue is with the curves and roundover having grain bumps, the top and back are pretty good. I think I'll have another go or two with sanding sealer on the edges first. Maybe sand harder with a finer grit.

Spent too much time and effort to bodge it now.