Tindrrel's JR-1M

I think the kit supplied posts might be ok. They have a slight lip rather than fully recess and the bolt doesn't quite go all the way in (about 1mm) because the thread runs out - but even so the new bridge is a few mm lower than the other one - so I think I can afford to raise it a little.

Need to do some more comparison. I think using the provided posts may be a less risky venture for me when filling and redrilling is likely to leave just a slither of dowel and glue.

The bushes (or whatever they're called) in the body that is. The gotoh bolts are custom head shape but appear to be the same thread.

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Originally Posted by Tindrrel

I think the kit supplied posts might be ok. They have a slight lip rather than fully recess and the bolt doesn't quite go all the way in (about 1mm) because the thread runs out - but even so the new bridge is a few mm lower than the other one - so I think I can afford to raise it a little.

Need to do some more comparison. I think using the provided posts may be a less risky venture for me when filling and redrilling is likely to leave just a slither of dowel and glue.

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For the kit bushes I ended up using I countersunk the lip of the bush into the body so it was flush with the surface.

That's even better. I suppose I should do that and install them before I spray it then mask them over.

Did more side by side comparisons of the bushings and the Gotoh bridge vs the provided bridge. The Gotoh bridge can get a fair bit lower than the provided bridge and at the same time wind out to be higher as well without losing any of the thread contact between bolt and bushing.

I've pretty much decided to use the provided bushings - they are chrome, but they'll be obscured by the bridge and won't stand out significantly against the white body.

I don't think I'll recess the lip on the bushing. That could end up being extra height that I need. Also the Gotoh bridge has screws on the underside that would mean the bolts need to be wound out to a minimum height such that the extra space gained from recessing would be lost anyway.

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Originally Posted by WeirdBits

But, before you start plugging and redrilling etc. have you checked the string height/action with the new bridge? As you have now glued in the neck its angle is fixed, so if you need to make any adjustments for the action it will have to be done at the bridge. Best to work out exactly what the current state is before you start drilling.

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100% on the money. STOP what you are doing and 'effect a pre-build' with the new bridge in place! Put the strings on and gauge your string height along the now fixed neck. And as Scott says since your bridge is currently fixed, if there is a major difference between the height of the supplied bridge and the one you are proposing working with you might have to return to the neck first...

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Originally Posted by Tindrrel

The gotoh bridge can go much lower or wind out as high as the old one.

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OK - Good....Sorry, I'm playing 'catch-up' today but fair warning to anyone swopping out a bridge to redo the mock build.....

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Originally Posted by Tindrrel

The gotoh bridge can go much lower or wind out as high as the old one.

So. I'm looking for some dowel the right size. I've not filled holes that way before. They're 0.5 mm too big, there's really not going to be much of the dowel left when it gets drilled out again.

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Grab some dowel that is as close to the right size but slightly bigger. Grab your sandpaper in your hands and wrap the dowel inside the sandpaper and then 'sand' the dowel into a smaller diameter. Keep checking as you go. You should naturally sand it into a 'flat-nosed-pointed cylinder' as you would be working at the end of the edge so this will facilitate knocking the dowel into place. I'd still glue it though with Titebond. That should give you a solid fit which you can then drill.

Still a good idea to check, the new bridge could be deeper than the old one. Better to be safe etc. etc.

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Originally Posted by Tindrrel

I think using the provided posts may be a less risky venture for me when filling and redrilling is likely to leave just a slither of dowel and glue.

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As long as you use a decent quality dowel (Tasmanian Oak is fine - from the Big Green Store) and Titebond you will be fine. In fact Titebond sticks to wood better than the wood fibres stick to wood!