Wow, that doesn't seen like a whole lot of meat holding that neck on there. I'm guessing you'd need a fairly dense/hard timber for that sort of cut.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fretworn
Printable View
Wow, that doesn't seen like a whole lot of meat holding that neck on there. I'm guessing you'd need a fairly dense/hard timber for that sort of cut.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fretworn
wow thats wild!
agree Barge I'd prefer to have more meat holding the neck in place, reckon that axe would lose sustain because of that hollow out at the heel
Yeah man, you imagine trying that out of basswood or something similar, it'd be like a whammy bar, before it eventually snapped off of course.Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
The carve looks sweet as Barge! Was that a router job?
There you go, a Maple body. She'd definitely have structural integrity.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fretworn
Nah, I marked out the curve with a black marker, then marked out some rough depth lines, then just carved it out with the angle grinder. After which i just tidied it up with sandpaper.Quote:
Originally Posted by crundes
did you use something like a flap wheel on a 4" grinder?
Yeah 40 grit, 4" flap wheel. Love it!!Quote:
Originally Posted by stan
awesome, I have one of those and some ideas...
When I finally finish something, I'll use this idea on a later project...
A little bit more progress on the neck joint.
looks sweet az bruh, you got to be happy, so this is your first scratchy ?
You must be off to Un Zud soon hey dawg to do some hill kayaking into fences ?
"Un Zud" What the?!?Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
I'm happy that I haven't f#@ked anything up yet I guess, but the build's not over yet. I've still got to de-fret, sand fret board, replace dots, re-fret, attempt a mop headstock inlay and finish neck/headstock yet so still plenty of opportunity's to screw things up:P
Yeah bro, this is my first attempt at a scratch body.
I stained the jackplate the same blue as the body, and I gotta say, I'm not diggin' it at all. I'm thinking about taking it back to natural, keen to hear thoughts?
The plate colour by itself looks amazing, almost like it's carved from a piece of marble, but it is a bit jarring over the back colour and faux binding. If you were going to have a colour on the plate, then I think that's the one, but it's a bit too prominent for me. I think the overlap with the binding is what does it. Have you comsidered matching it to the back colour and replicating the binding on it, so it almost disappears?
I agree Barge. For me it seems there's too much of a contrast between the body colour and the binding . Certainly doesn't look bad but natural looked great.
Totally agree, it's a sweet looking plate on it's own but doesn't really fit with the natural timber. You know what Weirdy, that thought DID cross my mind in regards to a natural plate with binding added. I kind of wish I had of thought about this a bit more before spraying finish, that idea would be sweet with a recessed plate, so it REALLY disappears. Any ideas how I might achieve that at this stage of the game?Quote:
Originally Posted by WeirdBits
Righto cool, that confirms that then, cheers man;-)Quote:
Originally Posted by crundes
Depending on the size of the hole you drilled you could opt for a Tele style Electrosocket thingy?
Meh, it kind of defeats the purpose of wanting a handcrafted one in the first place.Quote:
Originally Posted by keloooe
Hey Barge, jack plate colour looks cool but I agree with the others too much contrast. I'd sink it with a dremel and leave it chrome or try and replicate the natural colour and match the binding line
I think it's fine Barge. But a bit too big.
I'd make it smaller to fit within the natural wood and not cross the binding, then decide if I wanted to recess it or not...
@Wokka, yeah sinking the plate would look hella cool man, but see as I've already laid down finish I'd rather not start playing round with it and have to start doing little patch ups. Next build's definitely gonna have a recessed jackplate;-)
@Stan, I'm hearing ya bro, truth is I got a bit too carried away with the size of the hole for the jack, hence the need for the plate the size it is. I'll call it a little learning exercise and bear it in mind next time round:-)
Anyway, after a bit of confirmation from the dudes on here I decided to scrub the blue jackplate and run with this idea.
I'm 100% happier with this look.
And a couple more angles...
Looks awesome Barge. Almost disappears into the finish
Spot on, definitely worth the effort.
a neat solution, looks good Bargie
Seamless! Looks great Barge.
Cheers @Tony, Weirdy, Stan,Crundes
So after another quick read through Weirdy's thread regarding removing fret dots, out they came, without incident.
Unfortunately the factory holes a quite a bit deeper than my 1.3mm replacement Paua dots so I'm going to have to pack them out, or fill them, not sure yet...Ideas welcome.
Also de-fretted while I was at it. Got a fair bit of chip out in the ebony. It doesn't matter how careful you go, it just seems to be unavoidable.
I guess I'll get the new dots in, sand, then see how the chips look. May have to do some filling, idk, again ideas welcomed:-)
Save all the sawdust from your sanding, you can use it to fill the chips later. Loving the progress so far.
Yep, way ahead of ya man. After getting that drum sander for the drillpress I've got nice little bags of Silkwood, Rosewood and Maple so far:-)Quote:
Originally Posted by pablopepper
jackplate looks awesome Barge, huge improvement.
Should look excellent when the paua shell dots go in
Looks heaps better aye bro. Yeah the dots should match the top nicely I reckon.Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
aye bruh it's a massive improvement.
I got those micro mesh pads in the mail today so looking forward to trying them out on a body/neck
Nice, nice. They'll blow you away.Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
I've got some catching up to do on this thread, better late than never.. jackplate looks good this way and blends in nicely with the rest of the body.Quote:
Originally Posted by bargeloobs
Much better Barge!
For my MOP dots I cut some rounds of maple veneer and super-glued them into the dot holes to shallow them up to the required depth. A little excess squeeze of super glue will self-level in the hole, let it dry, double-check your depth then glue in the dot.
The hardest thing I found was accurately guessimating how much packing was required for each hole, as it varied a bit. In the end I grabbed a spare MOP dot, super-glued it to a bit of bamboo/chopstick, then ground down the sides a touch so it was slightly undersize (so it wouldn't jam in the holes)... this was my depth gauge when packing each hole. I'd put the packing in, check that the dot would be just fractionally proud across the peak of the fretboard, then glue the packing in place and let it dry throughly before gluing the dot in.
Also, line up your dots on some masking tape and check how they look in the light from different angles. You may find some will look dull or out of place compared to the others and will need to be rotated or swapped around so they 'match'. Then, try to keep that ordering and rotation when you're installing them.
I read your trick on cutting out the little rounds out of veneer Weirdy, it worked a treat. As the holes varied in depth so much some had as much as three to get them to the right depth while other holes only needed one.Quote:
Originally Posted by WeirdBits
Before that I reamed the holes out to the correct diameter (6mm in my case), then packed them out.
I glued a dot to the end of a drill bit, similar to what you had done as a depth gauge but unfortunately the first hole (see red circle in pic) I poked it into it it stuck fast and then came off the drill bit....Doh, so there it stayed. Worst part was I'd stuck the Paua to the drill bit, good side down so when it went in the hole it had the inner part of the shell facing upwards and I only got 12 dots in total, no spares.
Apart from that little mishap it all went pretty smoothly, and the Paua shell looks great, although hard to show with my phones camera.
I'm thinking now's a good a time as any to address the little chips in the fretboard before sanding up the grits and I was just wondering what makes the best filler, ebony dust and wood glue, ebony dust and super glue, or something else all together?