Finally got around to putting CA glue into the knot holes of the pinewood tele, and sanded them back with 180 g paper. Then stained the neck and body with FW Old Baltic stain.
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Finally got around to putting CA glue into the knot holes of the pinewood tele, and sanded them back with 180 g paper. Then stained the neck and body with FW Old Baltic stain.
Sorry, I missed this one Simon.Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
I was thinking of trying 6 mm auto pin strip decal. I think the thin thickness would be fine.
How did the stain react with the CA? Does it take up any stain or repel it?Quote:
Originally Posted by Trevor Davies
It probably doesn't matter here if you're filling knot holes, as the CA will project (FLOABW) the colour underneath it like a finish repair using drop-filling.
That will look cool with a nice gloss.
The stain is repelled by the CA.Quote:
Originally Posted by McCreed
Luckily all the knot holes were very dark/black in colour and will be darker than the stained areas. I had to ensure all the CA was well sanded back on the neighbouring areas so as to avoid lighter stained spots. So best to use thicker CA so as to avoid runs (Note to self!).
I was in a bit of a quandary about the order I needed to follow - either
1. fill with CA, sand, stain,
2. stain, fill with CA, sand, restain, or
3. stain, top coats, fill holes with CA, sand (But would probably get sand through!), more top coats.
Next time (or if using a darker stain, or if there are lighter knot holes) I think I would go method 2!
My inclination would have been option 1 also.
As for option 3, if you first scrape the CA level with a single edge razor, and then use the strip-sanding method, you can avoid sand-throughs. I've banged on about these techniques in a number of threads here :o
Yes, I have used this razor/strip sanding technique with my STA-1HT after I put a small dent in the back. If I look carefully I can still see the CA area as there must be slight difference in optical density of the CA compared to Tru-oil! I have to look hard though.Quote:
Originally Posted by McCreed
Yeah, I imagine you're right about that. I've only done CA drop-fills on factory poly finishes (most likely polyester).Quote:
Originally Posted by Trevor Davies
Lots of tru-oiling. They are starting to get a nice gloss.
Nice! I forgot about the thinline!
What's your tally system on the masking tape? Coats of Tru Oil?
I'm surprised you don't reshape your heels to transition closer to the pocket.
Yes the masking tape tally is the tru-oil coats. The solid body has been given 2 painted coats, 3 wipe-on coats, then rubbed back with 600 g etc.Quote:
Originally Posted by McCreed
AS for the heel transition - I have not felt the need. I will make it a priority for a future build ;).