Awesome! I can't wait to see the fruit of your labour
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Awesome! I can't wait to see the fruit of your labour
I just bought a cheap air line powered buffer, to make more use of my air compressor. Except that the backing pads supplied are the wrong screw thread to fit in the actual tool. So it's all going back. Such is life and Amazon.
At least the returns with Amazon are less painful than with random eBay or Ali Express sellers.Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
I could buy buffing pads for my palm sander, or a buffing wheel for the cordless drill. But I would use them so rarely, and I don't mind doing it by hand. I'm clearly not in a hurry.
You'd be surprised how often you use a tool for non-guitar stuff once you have it.Quote:
But I would use them so rarely...
And clearly not old enough that "elbow grease" turns into elbow pain (and shoulder pain, wrist pain, finger pain...)Quote:
...and I don't mind doing it by hand. I'm clearly not in a hurry.
edit:
Oh, and looking good btw! Can't wait to see it complete and playing!
Not that old yet, but getting there fast
Sent from my moto g(7) using Tapatalk
Cut, polish, and hand buff done.
Attachment 36442Attachment 36443
The finish feels silky smooth to touch, has a good high gloss, and I think it looks good. I would grade it a B. With the light at the right angle, there are orange peel remnants that prevent me from achieving a true mirror-like reflection. In hindsight skipping wet sanding with 600 and 1200 wasn't a good idea. Working up through the micromesh grades did a great job polishing what it could, but I needed to go harder at the early stages. There is no way I am going to go back to 600 or 1200 now since I am happy with the result, but I think that I have learned enough to get an A or A+ finish next time I use lacquer.
However, this is just me being critical for the sake of improving next time. I like the finish I have, and it's exactly what I had in mind from the start.
On reflection I think the nearly 2 months drying time really helped as well. During the entire sanding and polishing process the paint surface felt hard and sanded well.
I also cut, polished, and buffed the headstock but not the neck as I didn't want to affect the nice semi-gloss sanded effect.
Now on to attaching the neck, fitting the E tuners and positioning the bridge.
Nice sparkle in those new photos!
I didn't realise you hadn't fitted the bridge yet. I like to do that before any finish goes on, but I guess others do it after.
There are arguments for each, but I'm not keen on drilling into a new paint job.
That's a string-through hardtail so you're going to have to drill through the body for the strings as well as drill to fit string ferrules.
I hope you can manage that without damaging your nice new finish. :eek:
That is looking top notch DC. Your patience certainly paid off there mate. Your a more patient man than I , that's for sure. Some people drill hardware first, some don't. Like anything there are different camps of thoughts and approaches. Keen to see this progress through the last few stages.
Does your bridge have top loading or are you planning string through with ferrules?
Thanks McCreed and Bakersdozen.
Right back at the start of the build I determined that the bridge works as both top-loading or string-through. Photos on the kit page show top-loading. I decided on top-loading to keep things simple. I also decided way back forever to drill after the finish to reduce the risk of water getting into the holes and cracking the finish. At the time I was planning on wet sanding. As it turns out I didn't wet sand so could easily have drilled first. However, sticking to the plan means masking with tape and drilling carefully, which should get the hardware fitted without damaging the finish.
The finish is super hard now, so I don't have any fear of the tape itself causing damage.
Fate has been tempted.Quote:
Originally Posted by jugglindan
When you have to re-do the finish as a result, don't forget the 600 and 1200 stages. ;)
Fate is only tempted when someone draws Fate's attention. Until you pointed it out my comment may have slid through unnoticed. And I didn't forget 600 and 1200. Just didn't do enough of them.Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
But I am happy enough with the finish that I am going to go with a lacquer finish on the next build. Finally settled on a PB-30M bass. Tortoiseshell pickguard and body colour in the vicinity of surf green. The rosewood fretboard would probably look better but I would rather not tackle another engineered rosewood board.
Are the PBG basses also 12" radius boards?
They are indeed.
The factory 12" radius block has some pretty heavy use.
Could just stipulate as such at the order stage?Quote:
Originally Posted by jugglindan
FWIW I got a Pitbull 30" rosewood bass neck some time ago.
I plugged up the tuner holes as I was contemplating making it either a baritone guitar or smaller bass tuners.
Attachment 36465
cheers, Mark.
re: Rosewood fretboard
I'm pretty sure if the listing says "rosewood" it is real rosewood, not the engineered stuff. Maybe one of the guys from PBG could confirm here if they see this.
I still think your TL with the engineered timber was a fluke (mistake?) because the CITES restrictions had been lifted by the time you bought the kit, but I may be wrong. (wouldn't be first time)
Maybe just using up older stock rather than throwing them away or going to the effort of removing the engineered wood board and fitting rosewood (or an alternative similar wood) board ? Some kits on the PBG site are still listed as having engineered boards.
OK, thanks everyone. When I go to order I will check with Adam regarding the fingerboard specifics, as I do think the rosewood boards are the best pairing for the tortoiseshell pickguards.
Speaking of Adam, a lovely new bone nut arrived in the post today. Rather than having to shim, this one is a tiny bit too thick so I will carefully sand it down to a snug fit. It doesn't appear to be bleached either, so it's a mellow sort of yellow.
They call it Mellow Yellow
Quote:
Originally Posted by jugglindan
Looks to me you have done a good job that from what I can see in the picture that's an A my friend, waiting so long before you cut and polish was a good thing, only thing id say is don't go the 600 just go to 800 and soap then straight to a 2000g then polish. You have done a great job and you did it all the right way and the paint looks like the flake is even and not mottled, one of the best finish I've seen on the forums 👌👌👌👌
Thanks Phrozin, that's high praise mate! I will try the 800 wet with soap, 2000g and polish on my next build.
I totally dig that metallic blue man. totally
Thanks Andy. Although I ended up with a Hyundai Metallic Sky Blue (Duplicolor), I was originally inspired by the blue used for many years on the rally spec Suburu WRX.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy40