SG-2 by Nitroburner1000

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Originally Posted by FrankenWashie

Now there's a testimonial for Dedman Inc. if ever I've seen one. I whole heartedly agree with that sentiment Nitro, there is definitely something unique and special about all of Dedman's builds.

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Very true, thats what i like, everyone here puts their own touches to their creations..

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Originally Posted by stan

Another option would be wider pickup rings and a custom switch plate and make a feature of them, gives you more view of the top.
Having said that, do it however you like, your build and it's looking good

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Yes thought about that but couildnt get them wide enough in the sort that i wanted. cheers

So heres where it stands........Im going to use a pickguard to cover the pickup holes but even with feedback still unsure as to design.
Im not worried about covering over some of the cap as its not the best job in the world, some slight ripples, some slight hollow section, so the pickguard will also cover over some of my mistakes. maybe when i get better ill try naked, but at the moment it will cover over a bit of my embarrassment.

So i have 4 designs to choose from, one is based on the yamaha SG-50, middle pic top row, one is similar to a custom sg, far left bottom row, but they are all my own designs.
So please feel free to comment realising that i have to have a pickguard to cover the pickup holes and cover my switch hole that is going in the middle of the top horn.. Thanks guys.

Attachment 15138 Attachment 15139 Attachment 15140

Attachment 15141

top left -1
top middle-2
top right-3
bottom left-4

I reckon number 2 - It's very unique. It'll look awesome on this guitar.

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Originally Posted by depictedminds

I reckon number 2 - It's very unique. It'll look awesome on this guitar.

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cheers, thanks for the input

Number 3 is very close indeed to my own attempt to modify your original (no.1) pickguard in photoshop. But I then decided that whilst the top part worked, the bottom part now looked a bit too chunky. So I'm currently torn between 1 and 2, leaning towards 2, but 2 does hide a lot of the veneer. I'm getting used to 1 now, especially seeing it against the other designs.

Top marks for trying out some different designs.

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Originally Posted by Simon Barden

Number 3 is very close indeed to my own attempt to modify your original (no.1) pickguard in photoshop. But I then decided that whilst the top part worked, the bottom part now looked a bit too chunky. So I'm currently torn between 1 and 2, leaning towards 2, but 2 does hide a lot of the veneer. I'm getting used to 1 now, especially seeing it against the other designs.

Top marks for trying out some different designs.

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Thanks Simon, yea i thought the same about no 3, the design itself doesnt lend itself to be at all balanced which is the effect im looking for. i like 1,2 and 4 but leaning toward 1 or 2.

Hi Nitro, the front section of No. 1 looks best as it is a natural layering effect from the base timber through the veneer section and on to the scratch plate. Overall it almost has a hot rod 'flames' look to it, a bit like you would see on American hotrods from 1950's inspired movies like Grease.

Not sure if that is the look you were chasing but enhancing the 'licking flames' as it moves toward the bridge could be worth exploring.

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Originally Posted by wazkelly

Hi Nitro, the front section of No. 1 looks best as it is a natural layering effect from the base timber through the veneer section and on to the scratch plate. Overall it almost has a hot rod 'flames' look to it, a bit like you would see on American hotrods from 1950's inspired movies like Grease.

Not sure if that is the look you were chasing but enhancing the 'licking flames' as it moves toward the bridge could be worth exploring.

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Yes i see what you mean, thanks

2 or 1. 3 I don't like at all. 4 could work if the neck end was more radically shaped more like the bridge end.

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Originally Posted by Fretworn

2 or 1. 3 I don't like at all. 4 could work if the neck end was more radically shaped more like the bridge end.

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Yea could work i just cant go too small on the top horn as its gonna cover the selector switch. cheers

Hey Nitro I put it to the wider community on the Facebook page. Looks like 1 or 4 is the crowd favourite!

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Originally Posted by Nickosaurus

Hey Nitro I put it to the wider community on the Facebook page. Looks like 1 or 4 is the crowd favourite!

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Thanks Nick, really appreciate that.

So looks like i might be going with my original design after all, sweet

btw this is what the yamaha SG-50 looks like, note the position of the selector switch.

Attachment 15188

Now ive decided on my pickguard design, time to start cutting it out. I roughly cut out the shape with a coping saw...
Then used my bench grinder to refine it, then used sandpaper to smooth it out. I cut out the pickup holes with a dremmel and used it where the curves were too small for sandpaper.

Attachment 15207 Attachment 15208 Attachment 15209

I then used a power sander to start putting an angle on the edges of the pickguard.

Attachment 15210 Attachment 15211

One side nearly finished and what it looks like on the body..

Attachment 15212 Attachment 15213

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Originally Posted by nitroburner1000

One side nearly finished and what it looks like on the body..

Attachment 15212

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Looking at an earlier picture, you've got a control knob going in the big hole next to the thin wing of pickguard. It doesn't look like you've got quite enough clearance for the knob to be almost flat against the veneer. so it's going to have to stand proud (and maybe look odd compared to the other knob. Have you thought about this?

That larger hole is for the switch which I thought Nitro was relocating. Pickguard looks great by the way Nitro

On a previous pic he had a knob positioned there, but his pickguard mark-out was slightly smaller.

Attachment 13784

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Originally Posted by Simon Barden

Looking at an earlier picture, you've got a control knob going in the big hole next to the thin wing of pickguard. It doesn't look like you've got quite enough clearance for the knob to be almost flat against the veneer. so it's going to have to stand proud (and maybe look odd compared to the other knob. Have you thought about this?

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Its a volume control, and yes i will be checking it before i finish shaping, its early days yet, ta

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Originally Posted by wokkaboy

That larger hole is for the switch which I thought Nitro was relocating. Pickguard looks great by the way Nitro

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Thanks wokks

Been busy the last few days working on the guitar, i decided id leave finishing the body and concentrate on routing holes for switches before i put on the final coats of finish. First i reshaped the pickguard so the volume switch would fit, next i drilled a new hole for the jack lead and fitted the new jack plate. I routed the hole for the new switch placing and fitted the switch and humbuckers into the scratchplate.
i also fitted the post and temp fitted the neck to recheck the humbucker and E string positions. The humbuckers are not perfectly aligned but im happy with them. I also fitted all th tuners and truss rod cover plate.

Attachment 15260 Attachment 15261 Attachment 15262

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PS. Pickguard isnt screwed down yet, it still needs a bit more shaping to get it to sit correctly but will get to that later.

THE PICKGUARD.
The large gap above the top wing is meant to be wider than the bottom one as i didnt want it perfectly symmetrical. most pickguards are made like that..
THE VENEER
Also want the veneer to look a bit craggy, more natural grain and imperfections showing through.

You know I was not sold on the pick guard at all because of that wonderful veneer you'd added. Now seeing it in what I assume is its finished form, I think it really actually all flows together nicely. (Not that my opinion particularly matters a damn)

Its a vision you've pursued and brought to fruition and I believe it's a wonderful, original take on it.
Wonderful job, Nitro, a really unique work.

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Originally Posted by FrankenWashie

You know I was not sold on the pick guard at all because of that wonderful veneer you'd added. Now seeing it in what I assume is its finished form, I think it really actually all flows together nicely. (Not that my opinion particularly matters a damn)

Its a vision you've pursued and brought to fruition and I believe it's a wonderful, original take on it.
Wonderful job, Nitro, a really unique work.

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Thanks heaps mate, and guess what? i think your opinion does matter or how else can we learn and improve.

The new graphite nut seems very high, at least compared to the strat so i will have to resize it i think.

Attachment 15265

Edit..... Does anyone know offhand how high from the fretboard the nut is supposed to be?

Looking very glitzy Nitro!! Well done!

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Originally Posted by Zandit75

Looking very glitzy Nitro!! Well done!

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Thanks Zandit

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Originally Posted by nitroburner1000

The new graphite nut seems very high, at least compared to the strat so i will have to resize it i think.

Attachment 15265

Edit..... Does anyone know offhand how high from the fretboard the nut is supposed to be?

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Have a look at the plastic one it is replacing as a base reference starting point. There is probably something on the net somewhere about factory settings if you feel you need to go down that path.

Scratch plate turned out looking really good. Just wondering what you have planned for the 6 holes drilled on the front considering 3 way switch has been relocated as has the output socket?

Great job Nitro!

Sent from Android N

Your nut height is all relative to your 1st fret height, so there's no one-size-fits all solution. It's always best to file your nut slots to the required depth, and then reduce and reshape the nut height to match.

From a theoretical point of view, the minimum nut height above the fretboard would be 1st fret height + 0.02" (for Stewmacs' recommended bottom E clearance) + (Bottom E string thickness/2), for a nut where the nut grooves were the minimum of half a string's height. Working in both mm and inches, an example would be a fret height of say 1.5mm/0.059", a bottom E clearance of 0.51mm/0.02" and a half bottom E string height (of a 0.054" string) of 0.67mm/0.027", giving a total of 2.69mm/0.106". Rounding up for convenience,that's 2.7mm or 0.11" above the fretboard for this example.

The high E side would need less fret clearance, so around 0.25mm/0.01" and the slot height need only be say 0.18mm/0.005", giving a total minimum height above fretboard of 1.93mm/0.074". Rounding up a bit, that's 2mm/0.08".

Rather than the minimum half a string's depth, I prefer almost a full string's depth for my nut slots, to help stop strings popping out under string bending near the nut. So I'd end up with a slightly higher nut.

This is all theoretical, because depending upon the way your neck is set in terms of relief, you may need a bit more height above the 1st fret, or you may get away with slightly less. Which is why setting the nut slot heights should be done after setting the neck relief and the bridge height, not before. It's also why I'd prefer to cut the nut slots first, then lower the height of the nut by filing, sanding and polishing to suit. However, this method should give you a rough idea of how much lower the overall nut height can be than you have now.

It may be easier to reduce the overall nut height first, when it's off the guitar, to something approaching the calculated value, then cut the slots to depth and then file the nut height down to suit, resulting on a bit less on-guitar work.

Also note that if you are setting the guitar up mainly for side playing, then you'd want higher nut slots to help stop the strings touching the frets when playing near the nut. Raising the bridge/saddles won't raise the string height much at the first few frets.

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Originally Posted by wazkelly

Have a look at the plastic one it is replacing as a base reference starting point. There is probably something on the net somewhere about factory settings if you feel you need to go down that path.

Scratch plate turned out looking really good. Just wondering what you have planned for the 6 holes drilled on the front considering 3 way switch has been relocated as has the output socket?

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I will recheck but i think i already did that and they seemed of similar size but when i ran an e string along it it seems awefully high. ill do some more measurements and get back to you.
Thanks for the comment on the scratchplate, it turned out better than i thought.
The far left switch is volume, the next 2 are on-on-on switches for pup separation, the last in row is neck vol, the bottom 2 are tones.

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Originally Posted by andrewdosborne

Great job Nitro!

Sent from Android N

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Cheers andy

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Originally Posted by nitroburner1000

The new graphite nut seems very high, at least compared to the strat so i will have to resize it i think.

Attachment 15265

Edit..... Does anyone know offhand how high from the fretboard the nut is supposed to be?

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I've just measure my very recently purchased MIJ Tokai SG., which is the best setup I've ever had on a new guitar, and I won't be changing it.

The first fret height is .88mm
Height of nut at
Low E 2.35mm
A - 2.25mm
D -2.03m
G - 1.85
B - 1.77mm
High E - 1.55mm

All the above measurements are from fretboard to the top of the nut, they don't include the nut slot depths

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Originally Posted by Simon Barden

From a theoretical point of view, the minimum nut height above the fretboard would be 1st fret height + 0.02" (for Stewmacs' recommended bottom E clearance) + (Bottom E string thickness/2), for a nut where the nut grooves were the minimum of half a string's height. Working in both mm and inches, an example would be a fret height of say 1.5mm/0.059", a bottom E clearance of 0.51mm/0.02" and a half bottom E string height (of a 0.054" string) of 0.67mm/0.027", giving a total of 2.69mm/0.106". Rounding up for convenience,that's 2.7mm or 0.11" above the fretboard for this example.

The high E side would need less fret clearance, so around 0.25mm/0.01" and the slot height need only be say 0.18mm/0.005", giving a total minimum height above fretboard of 1.93mm/0.074". Rounding up a bit, that's 2mm/0.08".

Rather than the minimum half a string's depth, I prefer almost a full string's depth for my nut slots, to help stop strings popping out under string bending near the nut. So I'd end up with a slightly higher nut.

This is all theoretical, because depending upon the way your neck is set in terms of relief, you may need a bit more height above the 1st fret, or you may get away with slightly less. Which is why setting the nut slot heights should be done after setting the neck relief and the bridge height, not before. It's also why I'd prefer to cut the nut slots first, then lower the height of the nut by filing, sanding and polishing to suit. However, this method should give you a rough idea of how much lower the overall nut height can be than you have now.

It may be easier to reduce the overall nut height first, when it's off the guitar, to something approaching the calculated value, then cut the slots to depth and then file the nut height down to suit, resulting on a bit less on-guitar work.

Also note that if you are setting the guitar up mainly for side playing, then you'd want higher nut slots to help stop the strings touching the frets when playing near the nut. Raising the bridge/saddles won't raise the string height much at the first few frets.

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ok, thanks, if only i knew what you were talking about, i think newbie still applies to me.

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Originally Posted by Tweaky

I've just measure my very recently purchased MIJ Tokai SG., which is the best setup I've ever had on a new guitar, and I won't be changing it.

The first fret height is .88mm
Height of nut at
Low E 2.35mm
A - 2.25mm
D -2.03m
G - 1.85
B - 1.77mm
High E - 1.55mm

All the above measurements are from fretboard to the top of the nut, they don't include the nut slot depths

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Thanks tweaky, that will prove very helpful.

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Originally Posted by wazkelly

Have a look at the plastic one it is replacing as a base reference starting point. There is probably something on the net somewhere about factory settings if you feel you need to go down that path.

Scratch plate turned out looking really good. Just wondering what you have planned for the 6 holes drilled on the front considering 3 way switch has been relocated as has the output socket?

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Just found a pic that shows you the switch setup waz.

Attachment 15395

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Originally Posted by nitroburner1000

Just found a pic that shows you the switch setup waz.

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Thanks Nitro. That should provide you with lots of interesting sound options to play with.

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Originally Posted by wazkelly

Thanks Nitro. That should provide you with lots of interesting sound options to play with.

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Yea should do, the mini switches split the rails, and humbucker so you can have them separate or all together.

I remember listening to the demo videos and those PUP's were completely off the dial.

Can't wait to hear it.