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Hi Zandit capacitor values all come down to the players preference to the sound they are after. Put your 473 cap in and see how you like the tone. The higher value cap will roll off more tone and be less bright than say a 223 cap. They are easy to change out of you don't like the 473 cap
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zandit75
I seem to remember most LPs have 47nF (473) Tone caps, but 22nF (223) is also sometimes used too, as Wokka said, the larger the value of Tone cap you have, the more the Treble is rolled-off and consequently the darker the tone will be, I can check my Stewmac Guitar Repair book to confirm that if you like.
Thanks guys, I didn't originally look at the stock ones supplied with the kit, so when Stan double checked to see which capacitors to send I panicked!!
Stan is sending a couple of 223's.
Thanks again.
Stan's 223's will be perfect.
Wow, over a month since an update!!
Not much to share thanks to some illness for about 3 weeks. It's only in the last week that some more top coats have been going on, and going on quite well at this stage.
I used 2400 micro mesh pads on the back and sides yesterday just to knock the smoothness up a notch, and the next layer went on super smooth.
I want to put on another 3-4 coats over the next week before leaving it for 3 more weeks to fully cure. Then it will be on to assembly.
Thanks to Greg's Dingotone question, I took some photos of the current finish.
The top has 1 x Base coat, 2-3 Intensifier coats, and 3-4 Top Coats. BTW, There was no grain poppin, and I have only used 0000 steel wool between a couple of the intensifier coats, I have done nothing since starting to apply the top coats.
http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/u...psv5ejil9v.jpg
http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/u...psl2ngsodq.jpg
The back and sides have been grain popped with black timbermate, 6 coats of stain, and 3 or 4 top coats.
http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/u...psqww3d84k.jpg
http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/u...psla1csltp.jpg
lookin delicious!
ITs really brought out the bookmatching with that top. looks great
That is some flamey spalty awesomeness!
That spalt is just the business love it
Sent from my GT-I9506 using Tapatalk
Thanks guys, appreciate the love!!
The waiting is killing me at the moment between coats. The back and sides can be done again, that cures very quickly, but the top is taking a little longer. Having said that, the weather has been crap this week.
Patience grasshopper!
And it begins!!
Yesterday morning, I began using the microfiber pads on the body of the LP.
I only played around with it for about a 1/2 hour, but I scrapped all the bindings on the body(found a small crack in the binding inside the lower horn), and went to 3200grit on the pads.
I'm probably being too cautious, but I'm going to leave it a full 24hrs between buffs to ensure any moisture that accidentally gets into any holes has had time to disappear fully before applying more small amounts with the wet and dry process.
Feeling silky smooth already, can't wait to see what it's going to be like at 12000!
I still have to finish the logo on the head stock, but that should come together easily enough.
Hey Zandit keen to see some photo's of the body after the micromesh pads !
I'll post some up tonight!
Hard to believe how smooth things come up with micromesh pads until you start using them.
Where you are at you probably think that is smooth but after 8000 it is super smooth and once done with 12000 it will feel like a piece of glass.
One trick with using wet and dry is to have a soft cloth rag to wipe down the body as the milky film starts to build up and also remove the excess moisture. This is extremely important so that you don't drag the fine crap in the milky solution back across what you are trying to finish as there can sometimes be a few hard bits in it which could scratch things before you notice.
Always wipe the area dry after you have finished and if possible hang it up to dry rather than let it sit on one of the sides or faces so that it doesn't sweat from any moisture left behind.
Looks like I've been paying attention Waz, cause that's exactly what I've been doing, and just as you mentioned, I thought it was already smooth, but I'm now up to 8000, and you're right, it is silky smooth!!
http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/u...psoxryvihr.jpg
http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/u...psi1gsaiom.jpg
http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/u...ps4m1dzf3j.jpg
The table in the background is the one I built using the same stain as used on the back of this build. It has taken a beating over the years, and it's only laminated pine, so is pretty soft and dents and marks easily.
Still happy with it though!!
That's looking crazy awesome! It's hard to comment on anything other than that beaut spalted (flamted? splamed?) top, but I think the black-with-grain-showing back looks amazing too.
Thanks bud, I'm pretty chuffed to be honest!Quote:
Originally Posted by UpperCaseH
I think Andy patented the word Splamed a couple of pages back, so be careful on how much you throw that around!!!
very nice Zandit, can't wait to see it strung up with the hardware on
It is fantastic Zandit - I love the way you've worked with some fantastic raw materials and enhanced them. Like Wok says, I can't way to see it all together.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
Well that makes three of us at least Chuck!! :pQuote:
Originally Posted by Chuck
The worst thing is, my rebuild of the Carson guitar has been moving so rapidly, and this LP build progressing at a relative snails pace, that I have been enjoying the Carson build more and more.
Having said that, now that I have finally starting to see the final stages coming together for this build, I'm getting more excited to see this finally completed.
I wasn't expecting this build to take so long, but I'm glad everyone has stuck behind me and enjoyed the ride also!
Yeah, have to agree with all the guys in that looks absolutely stunning and the colour treatment on the Basswood parts acts as a perfect contrast/shadow tone all around the side edges.
Thanks Waz, but just to correct you, it's Mahogany on the back!Quote:
Originally Posted by wazkelly
That's what it looked like to me too. Somehow got things confused with some of the other guitars. Must be time for bed as I am no longer making much sense.Quote:
Originally Posted by Zandit75
Haha, all good bud!! I did the same thing. My eyes were hanging out of my head, so I called it a night!Quote:
Originally Posted by wazkelly
Mate this is so good, one of the nicest LP bodies I've seen, you got super lucky, and nice job
Such a nice LP great job
Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
Had another crack at the headstock logo.
It's a slight variation on what was there, but more in line with my original design. Not sure how to go about sealing it though. The DT clear coats gave it no protection last time, so perhaps I can go with a clear rattle can spray?
http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/u...psp95bztik.jpg
White Knight Acrylic could work as that is what you use to coat decal transfer paper to keep the ink sealed.
Thanks Waz, I'll look into it.Quote:
Originally Posted by wazkelly
I'll be using a Dulux Duramax clear finish on my other build - http://www.dulux.com.au/products/dul...?product=13672
And that's an acrylic also. Hopefully that will be suitable.
Looks like similar stuff and should do the trick.
Don't forget to tape up and mask off everything and do very light passes from about 30cm away to begin with and only move in slightly closer if that doesn't provide much coverage. Too close and it could end up too thick and result in runs.
Just checked your thread and you axe is super stunning, the natural woodgrain makes it a showstopper!!!
Yep, thanks for the tips. I've already come across that with my other build when doing the undercoats. Using spray cans is a steep learning curve!!Quote:
Originally Posted by wazkelly
Thanks Nitro, I can't take all the credit, the canvas was already there, and without the assistance of everyone on here, it wouldn't look as good as it does! I've never been a part of such an active, thoughtful, fun and encouraging forum/family!!Quote:
Originally Posted by nitroburner1000
Bring on the final stages!!
It seems like things are stepping up in pace!!
Got the shielding done, hopefully I have done it right! How pedantic do you have to be with this stuff? It's not perfect, there are a couple of small slivers of timber showing in some areas, should they be completely covered?
http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/u...psad1oba2o.jpg
http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/u...pskpsgghgf.jpg
I'll be picking up some of the snail tape tomorrow night, along with a new soldering iron. Will hopefully have the body nearly completed soon!! The neck will be my only stumbling block beacause I had to re-do the logo, and it needs sealing.
Overlap a small strip of copper tape to the one of the screw holes in each cover's recess. Then, with an appropriately shielded cover, when it's screwed down you'll have continuity to the cover.
Try to cover any gaps wherever possible, you don't want breaks in your shielding if you can avoid it.
Thanks Wierdy, message received!! I've done the covers, so I'll make sure there is a connection between the two.Quote:
Originally Posted by WeirdBits
better shielding job than I can do..
of all the techniques I've picked up here, nice shielding isn't one of them, I'm resorting to paint on
Truly an art form getting the shielding tape to do its job without looking a right proper mess. You have done a great job as a 1st timer Zandit.
I seem to be learning heaps o this build!
Who wants to see some real Progress??!!!
So I finished the polish, using my old stash of Meguires Scratch X and thought I might insert the bridge pins. I tried soldering the bridge earth/ground wire to one, but it wouldn't hold. I ended up wedging in along side the post.
http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/u...pswfdytjji.jpg
I then decide to continue with installing parts, and started with soldering the selector switch.
Turns out, it's pretty easy!
http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/u...psidkzobey.jpg
Installed the pickups
http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/u...psy32l3cu5.jpg
And started soldering everything together.
http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/u...psdur5egcz.jpg
Everything went together pretty easily, even if I didn't leave some of the wires with added length.
It made it difficult sometimes, and fiddly, but I was happy with my progress!
http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/u...psvw4sc57a.jpg
Now, this is where I get to brag!
I plugged in my lead, turned on the amp and........Everything works!!!!
I tapped both pickups, and using the selector switch, everything worked as advertised!
I couldn't believe my luck, so I fitted all the controls into place, and plugged it in again, and this is where everything comes to a big halt!
http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/u...psuabn6nsf.jpg
Now, only the neck pickup works, and only when it is selected singly. When ever I switch to either both, or the bridge pup, I get nothing.
Any ideas? Is this just a pinched wire? I've checked everything, and there are no bare wires touching each other.
Thanks in advance!