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Font isn't a problem. I can just draw it from scratch, that kind of thing is what I do for my day job.
I can also draw Bluey in a vector format pretty easily.
But yeah, have a think and then even if you do a pencil doodle of the direction I'll draw it up properly for you.
A first pass idea might be similar to this, but with "BlueyCaster" and some more space between text and image. Probably also a smaller line of text below:
Attachment 34492
Still feels too derivative though. I will think of other ideas while outside fixing a dripping tap...
Corrrr whackadoo!!
Leaning more towards the jump for joy pose, it's more upbeat than the wave.
Yeah I agree. The light blue might be tricky as a waterslide decal. Might be worth doing some tests. If you PM me your email address I’ll set up a PDF and shoot it thru later this arvo.
Might need to modify my neck finish plans to accommodate the blue. I was planning on using spray-can Cabothane Satin, but I am worried it will turn all that blue into a seafoam green. I have plenty of SCA clear acrylic that I will be using on the body which I hope is less prone to yellowing.
So I could either use that on the whole neck and headstock, then lightly sand the neck to get back to more of a satin finish. Or I could use the SCA clear over the front of the headstock only and cabothane on the rest of the neck. But that makes me wonder about how to deal with the transition and potential incompatibilites.
General rule is lacquer over poly = ok; poly over lacquer = not ok. However, there's always a risk and test pieces are always a good idea.Quote:
But that makes me wonder about how to deal with the transition and potential incompatibilities.
As for transition, I just did a gloss poly front of headstock on a satin sides & back and I masked the edge (side) all the way around about 1.5mm below the front. This allows the gloss to just roll over the edge contiguously. I'll just hit it lightly with a synthetic sanding pad to get a smooth transition from one to the other.
Granted both coatings were poly, but the method would also work with what you're looking to do.
Quick question about prepping my body colour prior to clear coat. I have finished 2 applications of duplicolor (3 light coats a few minutes apart in each application), and this has had two weeks to dry. I haven't done any sanding yet. I have some 1200 wet and dry but nothing finer. So long as I use very light pressure, is that fine enough to knock back prior to clear coat application (I am using SCA clear)? I don't have any orange peel or paint runs, so I just need to get rid of the odd dust particle and small paint blob.
Does it matter if knocking back takes some of the gloss off the finish? Or will that all be restored after I buff the clear with something like Meguiar's ultimate compound, or SCA cream polish?
Is your base coat (colour) a metallic paint or "solid" colour?Quote:
I have finished 2 applications of duplicolor (3 light coats a few minutes apart in each application), and this has had two weeks to dry. I haven't done any sanding yet.
I ask because if a metallic, you don't want to sand it at all before the clear coat. Sanding will literally flatten out the metal flakes suspended in the paint and the metallic base will lose a lot of its "depth" under the clear.
The clear coat is where your gloss will come from, not the underlying base coat.Quote:
Does it matter if knocking back takes some of the gloss off the finish? Or will that all be restored after I buff the clear with something like Meguiar's ultimate compound, or SCA cream polish?
2 weeks between base and clear coats is not ideal IMO.
It's usually better to apply the clear immediately after the base coat (especially with metallics and presuming there's no defects).
Doing this just after the base coat has flashed still allows the base and clear coats to "chemically bond".
After the clear is dried, then you can sand it to level it (and even re-shoot the clear if necessary after sanding) then progress through finer grits and into polishing once the final coat is cured.
If it's a non-metallic solid colour and dried, you do need to sand it prior to clear, but not with anything as fine as P1200. You want to use something coarser but probably not more than P320.
The main reasons for sanding are to knock down any dust or debris nibs (or fix any runs/sags) and to abrade the surface to achieve a mechanical adhesion for the clear coat if a chemical bond is no longer an option. (ie: the base is dried)
Thanks. It's metallic. I still have enough colour for one more coat. I could sand with 320, do another coat of colour and go straight to clear the next day. That's the closest I can get to your suggestions.