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I'll Look into that however i got a maple fingerboard neck delivered with this kit and australia is a long way away to order a new one if we screw it up.that is of pbg even has any more.Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankenWashie
I'm playing for a live audience for the first time end of may would be sweet if i could use it there. If not i have my trusty ibanez sas32fm.
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Looks like that GHS stuff partially dissolved the TO plus part of the colour from the underlying artwork.Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Piler
Never had that happen as I mostly lay down 6-8 coats then 2000 grit or higher wet sand after it has been left to cure for a couple of days. Then repeat again but with micro mesh pads from 4000, 6000 to 8000. For the 3rd application of coats from # 12 or higher usually leave a bit longer, week or so and then wet sand again with micro mesh pads right up to 12000. Next step is to use Meguiar's Car Polish as per these links.....http://www.meguiars.com.au/surface-p...mate-compound/
http://www.meguiarsdirect.com/category/clean-prep
I notice that polish "contains petroleum distillates" ..........I reckon that is the problem...acting like a degreaser as it warns of it milking older polish.
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http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...17f56866ec.jpg
She's here!!!!! And still over half a day of work ahead of me before i can fondle her. [emoji27] [emoji27] [emoji27] [emoji27] Ended up having to pay 40 euro customs fee.
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http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...afec3708bf.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...f72d66805e.jpg
At the 12th
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At the bridge
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Seems fairly accurate.
How about that fretboard? Its fairly smooth, leave as is or should i put a protective coat on it? What?
Frets are a bit corroded here and there any fix for that?
Will be starting on it sunday afternoon sanding shaping HS and first coat of stain.
Greetz Joe
Greetz joe!
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Joe,
What a score! I can't believe you got that flame in the spalt as well! Its going to look crazy!!!!
Please please be careful not to sand through the veneer (its quite thin). I used nothing but 320 or 400 grit on the cap sanding carefully and lightly.
The spalt, by its nature, is a bit ripply. If you are finishing the guitar in Tru-oil, you can start with a grain filler (I used ebony timbermate), then sand that back. you can build up the tru-oil coats on the cap, then wet sand them back and add more layers to get a flat finish. Have a look at my LP-1SS build diary if you want. unfortunately, it took me a few months to finish the cap on mine, but the patience paid off.
The scale length looks like it will be within tolerance.
The fretboard finish is quite personal and up to you. For me, I prefer that my fretboards aren't lacquered or sealed by anything. just natural with a bit of Dingowax (as I'm in Australia).
the frets can be buffed by a bit of 0000 steel wool and metal polish (be careful not to damage the fret board in doing so)
Enjoy ...you earned it.
If by riply you mean the waves in the top, I kind of like those.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy40
About the fretboard it seems pretty solid but also really dry and "scratchy" i imagije bending strings up and down that would feel kinda raw i would like to add some smoothnessbto it without darkening the color too much.
Do i have to protect the binding from the sandpaper?
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Hi Joe.
Yeah the ripples in the spalt. I had some channels that ran down the spalted maple (not the flame in the maple I had not flame that yours!) If you like an uneven cap, thats cool. Its all personal taste.
Good plan regarding the fretboard, maple is drier than rosewood. but I'd probably condition the fretboard at the end of the build.
I wouldn't worry too much about the binding when steel wooling the frets. You will need to prepare the binding by sanding it before staining (painting). Its mentioned in Gav's post in How to build your Pitbull Guitar. sanding and polishing the binding before staining helps prevent any leeching of the colour into the binding. and if there is leeching its quite easy to sand it out.