wow Fred just seen the pics after the polish, looking sweet
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wow Fred just seen the pics after the polish, looking sweet
Yep definitely looking sweet.
Thanks guys.
Still need a few hours of polishing, then electronics to be soldered.
Just need more time!
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Finally got to do the electronics.
That 6 way switch and the push pull tone pot make things intersting!
Used coloured wires to help future troubleshooting: red is bridge pup, green middle and blue neck.
Then yellow is out to tone and to push pull switch, and orange adds neck and bridge to get all 3 pups at one in position 5...
Did I hear that's crazy? [emoji848]
I used old style wires to connect the jack and tried to tie cables together so it doesn't become a mess in the control cavity.
Now have to put copper tape, install electronics and cable the pups to their vol pots.
Getting there!
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a510d971c7.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c32169b707.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...7ff86c14cd.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...2c622e8a93.jpg
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Nice tidy wiring Harness Fred.
Cheers. Glad I'm done with that cabling...
Had a small issue when hammering in the bridge post ferules, the poly cracked and lifted...
I reapplied some poly where it cracked and it looks better, i'll apply a couple more coats and repolish around that area...
Had a lot of drama with the poly finish on this build. I think that will be my last one finished with poly...https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...4a7469f5e6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d92b38442d.jpg
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And looking at the photos of the cabling, I just realised I messed up the connection to pot for middle pup, I connected to the middle lug instead of the side one...
Must be tired, I'll fix next time, enough for today...
Complex wiring does take a lot of concentration.
Hey Fred, are you still chasing replacement PUP's for your IB5? There is a set of EMG passives for a fiver on eBay for $100 that I reckon would fit.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/EMG-40HZ-...53.m1438.l2649
Hey Waz, not chasing anymore. Adam is ordering a set of Bensons for me [emoji41]
Cheers
Now I've got to order a couple of push pull pots or something like that to switch to single coil... Maybe I should replace the blend and master vol pots by 2x vol pots with push pull... or change the tone pots to push pull...
How did you cable yours?
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Hi Fred, on the EX-5 it originally had 2 x Vol & 1 x Tone and when installing the Bensons I used a couple of Bourns 500k audio taper push pulls to split the coils and also operate as master volume & master tone with a Gotoh LP style 3 way switch installed for PUP selection.
When they arrive let me know and I will take a photo of the control cavity to help you with which wires do what for coil splitting.
Tru oil might be a better option next time fred, still looks superb (and I am not a purple fan):rolleyes:
Cheers Andy, and exactly what I was thinking, haven't tried a True oil finish yet... it's overdue now! [emoji3]
This being said I'm now wondering if the issue is not with the inks I used under the wipe on poly. Didn't have that problem with my ply strat where I used colortone dyes.
The inks seem to build a film on the surface and I wonder if it's not preventing the poly fron really soaking into the wood...
Anyway too late for this one!
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Copper shielding done. A bit messy in the pickup routes but nobody will see it...https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...8acdf85626.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...7125d72e45.jpg
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Looks yummy Fred. I did mention Tru oil, at first it looked like that was the finished you used, but then i realised you didn't. One of the plusses of TO, is that its layered so if you ding it, you can just put more TO over the top and then re sand and polish.
A bit of progress tonight. Fitted out bridge, trem, pickups and tuners.
Then stringed with 10s.
I've used the plastic nut for now, so pretty high at the nut.
It also looks like the roller bridge is a bit too high too. Screwed it down to the max but the strings are quite high above the fretboard.
I checked the non roller bridge and it seems to be a bit lower, so might have to replace the roller bridge.
We'll see how it settles...
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Not usually a gold hardware guy, but that looks really great with the purple.
That's come together looking super nice...
Thanks guys for the nice comments.
There's a bit of a problem though... looks like I didn't glue the neck straight, the strings are closer to the edge of the fretboard on the low E side by about 3mm... photos attached
It's playable but looks off and is always going to upset me everytime I see it... I am now considering ungluing the neck...
I used Titebond so I think I can apply heat to unglue, going to check on the forum.
Any other idea?
I am thinking that if I move bridge posts and bridge I'm going to ruin the finish...https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...2619fc1f6d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...0ac8914b9f.jpg
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I know you want perfection, but I'd suggest leaving it and living with it. There is enough meat on both side of the neck for it to be playable.
FWIW I saw an excellent tip from Simon about putting a notch in the tune-a-matic bridge to better locate string placement.
Probably less palaver than removing/shifting the neck.
cheers, Mark.
That would bug me as well. It does look like the strings pass over the pick up poles well though, would shifting the notches on the bridge mess that up? or not enough to be a problem?
Can you make any adjustment at the nut end. A very slight shift to the right might be enough?
Good you mentioned these!
I found I can get unslotted tune-o-matic bridges, so could swap and have the slots offset to compensate.
Also looks like some Schaller roller bridges allow string spacing adjustment! That could work.
Sounds a lot better than trying to unglue the neck!
I'm going to check if these would work with PBG bushing size and spacing
Thanks for the idea!
@Sonic Moutain: Yeah I set the pickups before I noticed the strings were offset... so lined them up with the strings...
Shouldn't have done this late at night!
But I can move them that's not too bad.
And you're right I can also play with the nut positioning as I haven't set it yet, I think I'll have to do both, offset the nut and offset the saddles. This bridge looks good:
http://www.stewmac.com/Hardware_and_...er_Bridge.html
Did a mock up of my SGM build and with the neck sitting relaxed and evenly without glue in the slot I get the same (very similar) string offset as you.
Only way that I'm going to get my strings to run down the centre of the neck is when I eventually set it with TiteBond is to push down on it quite hard at the headstock as I tighten the G clamp, which is a prospect that I'm not looking forward to. Looks like mine will need two strings on it as I set the neck just so I can be sure it sets correctly.
If your neck is/was as tight as mine I don't fancy your chances of getting much correction if you try and reset your neck...
Hey Marcel,
Yeah... I'm not considering ungluing the neck anymore.... sounds scary and as you said there wasn't much movement to play with.
So I did some research after the guys mentioned offsetting the slots on the bridge, and I just ordered that Schaller roller bridge from Stewmac.
Each roller can be moved a few mm sideways so I should be able to offset them to compensate and get the strings in the middle of the neck.
We'll see when it arrives I guess!
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