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Sure is sensitive stuff and need to be extremely patient between laying down coats. Whilst it may feel dry you might find a slight tackiness to the touch and this means a green finish requiring more curing time as it will still be soft and moist just under the surface. Therefore do not recommend any form of sanding for at least a week or two.Quote:
Originally Posted by FredA
Yep, you are right wazkelly. There is a slight tackiness to the finish. So I will wait at least a week from now before I attempt to sand it back. Got a dehumidifier running in the workshop too. Hopefully that will help. Unfortunately there is rain predicted all week here in Sydney, so drying is going to be slloooooooooooww.Quote:
Originally Posted by wazkelly
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Still plenty of humidity up here too with rain forecast for most part of the next week. Sounds like the whole East coast might be affected?
The face of the guitar is still curing and still feels tacky to touch so I am going to leave it till the weekend after Easter and see how it is then.
The neck is proving a challenge I think. On measuring the rosewood fret board is 2 mm thicker at the top than the bottom. You can see the slope when looking at the end.
Attachment 9867
From reading the face of the fret board should have a 7 1/2" or 9 1/2" radius or curve, which should be even top to bottom with the top of the radius on the centre line of the neck.
So I am thinking that to fix this I either need a new neck (simple solution) or I need to pull the frets an shape the fretboard so it is even (much more difficult fix). Now, bearing in mind this is my first build and while I am OK with simple tools I do not have a set up workshop, what is the approach some of you more experienced builders would take?
Any advice on which way to go.
I think the Pitbull necks are all 12" radius. Does the 2mm difference extend the length of the neck? If so you could take a 2mm chamfer off the base of the heel, maybe?
On closer inspection and pondering of the solution the fretboard is actually high to low from top right at the nut to bottom left at the body. There is a max of 3 mm difference at the bottom left and about 0.5 mm at the bottom right at the nut. I think this is a little beyond my ability and toolset to correct and I am going to go with a new neck. My daughter needs a neck for her Art project for Yr 12, so she just scored one! Time to drop Adam a few questions about a new upgraded neck ...
I also cut back the face of the body this afternoon. It is looking much better, colour is still there but the white of the grain is starting to peak back through. The finish was still a bit soft and the sanding (400 grit) all rolled/balled up a bit while I was doing it, but it worked OK. Now I will let it sit for a week to dry right out/cure properly before applying a new base coat.
Oh, and I am never doing a kit with black binding again. Horrible thing. When you sand it the colour from the binding rubs into the body, causing more sanding to remove the black pigment.
Hi Marze, I just happened to catch this thread on my nightly scan of new threads.
Unfortunately, this TL-1Q is from a different factory to our regular supplier, where we get our separate necks, and the separate necks do not fit the TL-1Q neck pockets (we have tried). So, I'm afraid there is no option to upgrade the neck.
If the neck has genuinely twisted, then this is clearly a manufacturing fault and we will have to get the complete kit back for replacement or full refund, and we will claim from the factory.
I'm afraid I don't have the TL-1Q kits in stock, but I do have some more on order, from our Regular supplier, and they are due very late April or early May.
You could look at replacing the TL-1Q with a kit from our regular supplier, like the TLA-1 (Ash body) or the TL-1A (Alder body), or any one of our 111 models.
Sorry I don't have better news for you.
Hi Adam,Quote:
Originally Posted by adam
OK. I dropped you an email in between you replying to the thread :-)
Ignore my first question in the email as you have answered it above. I will pack up the kit and return it for a replacement. Can you send me some info on the TL1Q from the regular supplier? i.e. is the same with a black binding etc. Is it OK that I have worked on the kit???
I will hang on to the tonerider pickups for the replacement.
Please send me an answer on the Bass question.
This is as far as this kit got ... you will have to imagine the sides and neck in Dingotone Black Stump and the face of the headstock in Same blue as the body . R.I.P.
Attachment 9930
Attachment 9932
Now it is winging its way back for a replacement.
End of this thread.
Oh dude that is gutting...I am in the same area as you and i have been paranoid about the DT work. Your chronicle issues just makes me even more nervous now.:(