Build #2 - Doublecut custom

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Just keep going with the clear and intermittent wet sand with 1200 till your happy.

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Personally I don't introduce water into the sanding equation until the top coat has gassed off for at least 14 days and I'm beginning the final cut & polish.

And as far as sanding between coats, only if I have to knock down dust nibs and I will only use dry paper or a synthetic sanding pad. If I have to fix a small sag or run, I will will give that at least a few days and then use dry paper to fix it. (or razor blade, then paper)

Everyone's got their way of doing things. This way is mine.

As a diversion from the endless cat and mouse game of finish...
I’m starting to think about what other bits I’ll want to order, ready for assembly when the time comes.
I already have the Grover tuners, bone but and an upgraded pickup. I’m planning to fit strap locks and thinking amber or gold bell knobs would look nice too but just wondering whether to upgrade stock electronics whilst I’m at it.
Most threads on that topic are understandably geared towards greater tonal possibilities but as I’m not really interested in that (my main drive is to build an instrument that has its own voice rather than a versatile one) and while playing I rarely do any more than gently roll off a little volume or tone as I’m from the ‘it’s in your hands’ school of tone. I’m thinking upgrading electronics wouldn’t be worth it. Am I missing a key benefit I’d get from spending a few more dollars?


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First thing in the electronic upgrade is the quality of the pots and switches, the pick up choice is a bit about the quality but it will mostly depend on the sound you want, some people want the cheap trashy sound.
Quality gear will last longer and, as long as your handy work (soldering etc), doesn’t let you down, you will have less problems with noisey pots and switches.
I reckon the Tonerider Vintage 90 will be fine.

If you just want to upgrade quality of sound not variety and intend to stick with standard wiring layout.
Then I'd go with gotoh or Dunlop pots, the Dunlop are expensive but are unmatched. Audio taper pots for volume linear taper pots for tone. Swtchcraft jack, swtchcraft or gotoh switch. 22awg wiring and Belden sheilded 4 core cable for switch( this is the same as the pickup wire)
Copper shielding tape and solder your bridge earth and common earth's to your shielding.

Thanks for this, would those upgrades benefit a set-and-forget kind of player or would it only be noticeable if you used the pots a lot during playing? I assumed the components would be transparent to the sound when not in use. Excuse my ignorance on this topic


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Movement is mostly the cause of noise.

I used to be a set and forget player until I started building and began to understand how the components worked and interacted together. I soon learned just how much power there is in volume and tonal adjustments.

Out of interest, what quality of electronics go into standard Fenders and Gibsons? (I have a ‘91 LP studio and a much newer mexi roadworn tele) on both guitars I find the volume is more like a gain control so can be useful but the tone pots do little more than add mud when not all the way up. I wonder if I should get a job lot of upgrades then...


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Originally Posted by McCreed

Personally I don't introduce water into the sanding equation until the top coat has gassed off for at least 14 days and I'm beginning the final cut & polish.

And as far as sanding between coats, only if I have to knock down dust nibs and I will only use dry paper or a synthetic sanding pad. If I have to fix a small sag or run, I will will give that at least a few days and then use dry paper to fix it. (or razor blade, then paper)

Everyone's got their way of doing things. This way is mine.

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Ideally, I agree with you and that's the way I'd do things if I was working with a flat surface, but I find with the laminates, and especially with quilted laminates it's better to wet sand sooner than later as the surface is so uneven due to the quilting if you build up too much of a bulk before wet sanding you have so much bulk to move off the high areas you end up with an inadvertent sand through, either right through the veneer or through the stain.
But that's me, I've ruined 6 week's work before and prefer to work this way as I feel it's a safer method especially as I only use 1200 and 0000 steel wool, throughout..
My exception to this is when using self leveling poly, that you just gotta pay it on gas it, then forget it for 2 weeks.
Not saying my method is the right method, just saying it works for me and the end product is an excellent finish.

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Originally Posted by SamSquare

Thanks for this, would those upgrades benefit a set-and-forget kind of player or would it only be noticeable if you used the pots a lot during playing? I assumed the components would be transparent to the sound when not in use. Excuse my ignorance on this topic


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These upgrades will improve your overall signal whether you adjust them or not, also putting in quality components in the first place avoids having to replace them in 3 weeks when the toggle dies or the pots start crackling.
If you use linear pots for the tone the tone pots will actually work correctly, audio taper for volume. also the 50s Gibson wiring diagram will give better function than the modern wiring.
You will probably find yourself using the controls when they work properly.