Keep at it Frankie, those micro mesh pads can sometimes create a bit of magic. A few more clear top coats sometimes helps to hide or disguise bad preps plus give a bit more platform for the final polishing process to work with.
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Keep at it Frankie, those micro mesh pads can sometimes create a bit of magic. A few more clear top coats sometimes helps to hide or disguise bad preps plus give a bit more platform for the final polishing process to work with.
Thanks Waz. It really is only the body that bugs me. I'll get some photos up and you'll see what I mean.
Cheers Bro, keep your chin up.
Look on the bright side, it could be worse.......it could have turned out sea foam green!!!!!
If SFG becomes evident this will happen to insure the infection does not spread
Attachment 17451
Little bit of Voodoo Child happening there......hope you don't have to resort to that on this or any other build.
Well, life gets you preoccupied with inconsequential things, like working.
Having looked at the burn through and associated yuck that was going on, I decided that the back could be salvaged with some more coats of Finish, but that the front was a disaster and something drastic would have to be done.
So I masked off tightly and stripped back just the fun and the front of the headstock. All turned out good, it allowed me to do some flattening off of bit I wasn't happy with.
I resanded through to 320 and then used a fresh Black Stump kit to apply colour. It had the unintended effect of making it much darker than the first effort so i was quite pleased.
Two coats on, and no dramas, I decided to go for a third coat. Shouldn't have.
Attachment 19164 Attachment 19165
Its not sticky or gluggy, its just gone weird. Is this the dreaded Humidity gremlins?
Is this a case of sand back and start again or shall I give it a light rub back with a high grit and move to Intensifier?
Do I cut losses and sand back and spray now?
All suggestions welcome.
Hi Frankie, Yep, I have seen that same thing happen on both of my Explorer builds and best way to get it sorted is wet sanding with 1200 or higher. Just make sure you rinse the paper every few swipes and also wipe up the dampness so that you can keep an eye on things. So easy to cut through to bare timber if not paying attention as I found out the hard way too many times.
Once salvaged if there is still plenty of depth to the base coats suggest moving on to the intensifier, but no more than 2 coats otherwise you risk this funky crap happening all over again. Andy is probably best person for tips on how to finish with top coats as I never got that far and used another product that shalt not be named which did the trick without any dramas.
Cheers, Waz
Hey FW, that's the classic sign of too much DT final coat, (or an application of another coat over a non-cured previous coat), I'm sorry to say. I haven't had this issue with DT MKII...did you get it in a plastic or silver bottle?
There's only one cure, to sand it off.
To add insult to injury here FW you have to wait for it to cure before you can effectively sand it off (without taking off the undercoats). If you sand too early it will ball up and go a but gluggy.
If you sand too much and take off stain, you can spot stain and spot re-intensify.
Check how much DT final you have left, You may not have enough to re-finish? If you don't have enough and you are determined to finish it in DT, I have a bunch of DT MKI finals you can use.
Alternatively, a cheap fix is to buy some tru oil and finish that over the top. Waz and I are experts at that fix :)
(sorry, I should add that the humidity doesn't cause stuff like this, it just lengthens drying/curing time.)
Good luck mate, I know your pain
Hi Andy Thanks for the info, I have not actually started the intensifier or the final on this, its actually just the stain coat at this point.
@Wazkelly, i'll give that a go, I have 3 stain base coats on there so I think i should be okay for colour depth. I did extra work on flattening it off before i wen back to stain so hopefully this will come good. Thanks for the reply.
As Andy said, may be a good idea to leave things for a week or more so that it fully dries out before you attack it with the wet & dry.
Really? Wow! I have never ever had this happen on a stain coat no matter how much I put on it. didn't think it was possible. We'll you proved me wrong.
I wouldn't really be worried about the finish look of it on the stain coat, just the bumpiness, if it was me, I would just need to sand down those bumps and truck on with the intensifier. I don't really worry about the final look of sheen till the final coats anyway.
Hey Andy, I was surprised too as that funkiness only happened to me after 3rd or 4th intensifier which were sitting on top of 4 or 5 base stain coats.
It was always one step forward and two steps backward for from that point hence why I switched to something else for the top coats otherwise I may still be trying to finish them off.
Thanks guys, it's had nearly 2 weeks,I'm going to give it another while i fiddle with the FrankenWashie control cavity, LP and Sv base coast and some routing templates for the TL1-TH. I'll assess and do the wet sand and see what happens then.
Good idea Frankie.
Yeah, I had that in mind Andy. When i got the finish coat on the first time around it all went really well and I was quite happy with it, but when I went to polishing it, it highlighted the poor effort on prep and the resultant burn through is what made me strip it back.
In all, this one is actually still my first build, but the lessons learned are being employed in the other projects i have going.
I may be competing for the title of longest lived build on this one!
Right! Bumpy bits no knocked back. 1st intensifier on.
It's gone an intense inky black which I am loving. see below:
Attachment 19331 Attachment 19332
We shall see how that cures and make some more decisions from there. One thing I have noted is that it will seemingly be much darker on the front faces than the sides and back, this is assuming that it doesn't become more translucent in curing. We shall see how it all goes.
@Andy40, @wazkelly, Thanks for the advices boys, much appreciate the assistance.
Certainly a lot blacker. You're really getting into Dedman territory here!
Looking good Frankie. Just need to be patient with the curing time now the weather is starting to get cooler.
Thanks Waz, won't be an issue with cure time. I've plenty of other bits and pieces to work in between coats
I thought so as you tend to take your time with most things.
creeping towards the line.....
Intensifier is did.
Attachment 19782
Now I know blackness.....Thanks DB.
Yes, nice and black.
Thats a great colour FW, its well worth the wait eh?
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...360accbb98.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...294733a540.jpg
Finally onto the final coats!! Will plop 2 on and then it's decal time. Electrics are good to go just got to get it across the line!
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wow Frankie that looks choice bro. Been worth hanging in there with a few dramas on the way. Home stretch for sure !
Thanks Wokka. Yes, there has been a few hiccups. I really like how the back has stayed translucent ( a legacy of the 2nd DT Attempt) but the front has gone totally ace of spades(3rd DT black stump attempt). Just got to get done with it. I'm still likely to have the TLA finished before it though! I reckon i've screwed up just about everything you could possibly screw up on this one.
Man Franken I really like the build and the back with the grain showing thru is great..
I don't think I could use the dingo tone even if I could get it here in the states. I have very little patience, although my builds have been t aching me some..
wow its looks awesome Frankenwashie, i cant wait to see the finishing product.
Better late than never so the saying goes.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...6c23758b07.jpg. Nearly there.....
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...804f12a7d5.jpg
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Well I suppose you've got to get it right. Right? I really want to see the never ever build. Sounds alright
Well, the EX build is officially stuffed.
I don’t know how many black stump attempts this is, but it obviously doesn’t like me.
I have tried every technique suggested, and replicated this on the TL-TH and the IB Freebie and they have worked out okay, but the EX well, it’s just been contrary the whole time. Despite my best efforts, I have ended up with a roughened texture and some odd crazing. (I will post pictures in the morning, when the light is better for photos). There are areas that look okay head on, but under varied light angles, it looks crap.
I got the irritating with it this evening and basically said “F” it, put it together and cranked it up, it makes an agreeable noise, unless you are my neighbours. The EMG 81/85 Zak Wykde set is great, crisp, clear and angry, but I look at the finish and I want to weep.
I think I will tinker with it to adjust those things that need adjusting (Nut, Action, get the V and T pots around the right way, adjust the front PUP surround for fit) and at some stage work up the gumption to attempt a refinish. But not just now, I can’t face it and I have other things to finish.
Hi Frankie, good to hear most things have worked out ok. I know how much hard work you have put into this beast and wondering what you were using for top coats? DT perhaps?
Easiest fix to keep it black would be to sand back a few of the DT layers and maybe re-do with a quality fountain pen black ink then use clear acrylic rattle cans or Tru Oil over that. Andy seems to be the only forum member using DT that gets good good results. Mine always failed transitioning from Intensifier to initial top coat no matter how many times I wet sanded back and tried again. Maybe your layers under top coat are ok but just need to use a different product for the clears, as was the case on both of my Explorers with problem solved using DT instead. It goes on fine on top of DT.
Sorry to read that it didn't work out as you hoped it would be. Perhaps it is the best to put it away for awhile and take another chance later.
I'd really hoped it would turn out to be a great axe since I'm thinking of doing the same build.