As I have no idea how that works I will stand here smiling and nodding :)
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As I have no idea how that works I will stand here smiling and nodding :)
It's not that complicated, it's just a slightly more accurate mitre box with a sliding bed to advance the fretboard between fret slots, the board is CA/masking tape secured to the bed centreline. The toggle clamps lock the whole assembly down while you cut.
It's a bit of a work in progress, but the first test cut seemed good. I'm going to prepare a pine test blank to do the fret measurement test and the fine tune on this cracked rosewood board, with some inlay work, prior to getting to grips with the final ebony board.
NSFW warning, the picture below shows a line of slots....
Attachment 13987
nice fret jig, Franken, simple and effective
Thanks Stan, I had been playing around with the idea. I decided to just do it. We'll see how it pans out.Quote:
Originally Posted by stan
cool fret slot jig Frankie, so it clamps the fingerboard down and you use the square edge to rest the saw against ?
Not yet :) the brown bar is a square rest for the saw and the long bars either side are squared to that to assist with marking up the fret board.Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
I've got a couple of small toggle clamps that will go either side of the saw rest to actually clamp the board and sliding bed down but I have yet to fit them. That test was done holding the board in place by hand. It actually worked pretty well but your hand is going to start aching if you've got a whole board to slot.
and sanding is done...down to an even 600 all over for undercoating. Been a bit slack with building, work etc etc. Back on deck with it now.
Attachment 14689 Attachment 14690
Will likely attack this with some light undercoating in the next week or so, but need to do a light wet sand on the EXA first, prior to another (the last) thin coat of Intensifier.
A question for the assembled luminaries, when you are finishing a neck, do the same rules about sanding finish apply as per the body blanks? Sand to 300-400 max and then treat or can you go smoother? I have gone to 400 and its coming up very nicely, i was of a mind to run it up to 1200 or higher to see what sort of a polish it can get less stinky chemicals.
Has anyone tried this?
I like more of a satin finish on a neck, so I sand to 1200, then a couple of light coats of Tru-oil. On the Telemaster build I did a light stain before the two/three coats of tru-oil. After the tru-oil cures I go back with 1200 to clear any "wipe" marks, then do a light rub back with 2000 to give it that silky feel.Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankenWashie