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Otherwise was thinking you could have one switch with vol for neck pup.
Second switch to turn on/off the bridge pup,.
Then the last switch to change the bridge pup between series and parallel wiring. Or switch between 2nd humbucker-half off and in series.
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Essentialy, each 'coil' is a 4-wire twin blade humbucker. The Neck pup is just a sngle 'coil' and the Bridge is two side by side. You can run the blades in series, like a normal humbucker, in parallel for a thinner brighter sound, or even spplit them down to a single blade to use as a more traditional single coil. It all depends on how they sound split and across the different configurations.
With two On/On/On mini-toggles you should be able to do:
Bridge - Both coils / one coil / single blade (of one coil)
Neck - Blades in series / blades in parallel / single blade
That would give you a lot of different sounds across the two pups and you can just use a standard 3-way to select them. But, you don't really know which options 'work' for your build until it's built and tested. So, the best you can do is research the different configs for those pups and decide which sounds you want, then you can work up how it can be wired to achieve that.
I'd rather not go down the path of lots of switches and knobs and a pilots licence and a cheat sheet to remember what does what :P
I think 3 push pull volumes to split each pair, that gives me the options I want with lots of mix options (not a fan of those phase/series options). It's cheaper and it also has the typical strat 3 knob look but without the switch and all 3 will fit neatly in the rout. :)
On my first axe which was a Japanese built Strat copy it was modded to have 3 independent volumes. It had 3 x Bill Lawrence single blade, single coil sized PUP's which were also wired through 3 x mini switches where centre was 'Off' and as those PUP's were essentially the forerunner to what you have got, from memory they were wired in series in the 'Up' position and parallel in the 'Down' position. In this instance one position (Up perhaps) could be in series which is the bucker mode and in the down position could be coil split with centre off. This still allows a master volume and with that big hole left behind for the 3 way switch you could maybe add a master tone, plug, or run a dummy pot to make it look tidy?
Running 3 volumes without switches and then splitting some and not others will give you lots of weird results and as I found on the EX-5 & J Bass you cannot successfully run treble bleed mod without encountering other issues too. In fact I am about to mod the EX-5 by dropping a volume and introducing a Gotoh 3 way LP style switch plus use push/pull pots to split the humbuckers which is a mirror of the wiring job done on it's sibling, the EX-1 as not a fan of the 2 vol & 1 tone setup on that axe. When rolling off 1 volume the sound changes slightly but more as a drop in noise rather than change in tone as you would expect by moving from one PUP to the other, until one of them is fully at zero which is when you get the full voice of the other PUP hence why I tend to prefer switches.
or perhaps :p
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Tuners and bone nut arrived from Adam today, so other than having no bench space until I finish something and having to make a switching decision all systems are go. I'm thinking about forgetting the splitting and just going with one Freeway and a pushpull as Weirdy first suggested otherwise I'll be here until the cows come home umming and arrhhing :)
sounds like a good plan Dedman, surely you can relocate some stuff off the bench and start sanding and staining !
nup, it's my packing bench for my business. I can't leave stuff on it , it runs the risk of getting knocked about
well Dedman sounds like you need another bench - surely there is some room under a patio if the garage is chockas
As an experiment I once left an old cassette deck sitting in the middle of the yard. It was gone 2 nights later. If it's not locked up it's gone around these parts, big transient population on the GC.