TD's Scratchy Thinline

In case you're not already across it, a small diameter bit for the corners of the pocket comes in handy, but they are hard to come by for cheap (e.g. stewmac prices).

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I will now need to get a short length router bit to do the neck cavity.

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In case you're not already across it, a small diameter bit for the corners of the pocket comes in handy, but they are hard to come by for cheap (e.g. stewmac prices).

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FWIW, I bought a set of 12.7mm dia. top bearing router bits with cutting depths ranging from 1/2", 3/4", 1", 1-1/2" off of Amazon.
I'm sure they're not Stew-Mac quality, but they worked fine for my needs.

Thanks Dozy and McCreed,
I have a short cut, top bearing bit in the mail, and a few more on the never ending wish list.

I have cut out the chambers for the thinline - done with a jigsaw.

A question.:confused:

We all apply top coats on our guitar bodies and necks to protect them from changing climate (humidity mainly). But hollow bodied guitars do not have the inside chambers sealed.

Why don't we need to seal the inside of hollow electric or acoustic guitars?

Should we if we can?

I, too, would be interested.

It wouldn't really make sense to have anything unsealed would it, if you're trying to keep moisture out of the wood.

My stubby router bit arrived, so I have now routed out the two chambers.

Next I will glue on the base.

I never realised that when building guitars the number of clamps you need is N+1, where N is the number you have. Another trip the the BGS is on the cards.

Clamps, guitars, hand planes, chisels, files, rasps, amplifiers, Road Bicycles, motorbikes, V8 performance cars.......N+1 is a universally applicable money reducing equation.

Can confirm.

I have sealed the inside parts of the hollow chambers with 3 coats of tru-oil. I'm not sure if this is worth it or not!

Next is to glue the top onto the body.