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I see that. I think the illusion is our brain interpreting the closest boundary in each design as the same size, which means the enterprise that is closest on the edges must be larger.Quote:
Originally Posted by McCreed
I think I would use a blue LED on this one, to echo the blue thingy on the front of the secondary hull. Trivia, I think this image that I shamelessly grabbed is from the Star Trek VI movie.
I have decided that the off-board wiring in a pedal build is a lot like sanding. Quite boring, but still needs to be done. Because of said boredom, I didn't get this completed:
Attachment 35021
Why did I try a polished metal enclosure? Oh the polishing, oh the fingerprints. The fine swirly scratches are only visible under my work lamp. In normal lighting it looks very shiny. Plus there is a limit to my patience with metal polish. Next pedal is going to be painted again :)
Finally got the top clean enough to put the decal on. I was a bit nervous at this point since this is my first attempt at the One Decal to Rule Them All method (previously I put each component on separately).
Attachment 35053
It worked OK. Decal is still a bit high but the glue started setting before I could move it down a bit more. Meh, it's good enough!
Attachment 35054
Edit:
I need to put some clear coat over this tomorrow, but I am worried about adhesion on the polished surface. I don't want to sand either though cause I will lose the polish. Decisions, grr.
Wait, how did you do the decal? did you print it or something and how did you get it to stick? same way as putting a decal on a headstock?
I bought some laser printer clear waterslide decal sheets from Dr Decal and Mr Hyde, designed the decal in Inkscape, then printed it. For the application, I wet the surface, soak the decal then use cotton swabs (q-tips to some) to carefully move the decal into place. Then some dry cotton swabs to roll the bubbles out to the edges. I have to be careful during this stage as dragging the swab instead of rolling can dislodge the toner from the decal sheet.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy40
Midday tomorrow I plan to turn on the heater in the shed and put a couple of clear acrylic coats over it. I hope I don't get adhesion issues like I did on the powder coat. I still don't know if I should sand with 1200 (not on the decal) or not before the clear goes on.
Looks great. Bet it sounds great too. Good luck with the clear..should be okay if you start with a light mist and then build up from there. Just go easy at first.
Thanks, I will try that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bakersdozen
I got the rest of the wiring done tonight, and some testing:
Attachment 35055
It works, but I don't know if it sounds like it should since I have never played a real Phase 45 pedal and I have substituted the op amps and transistors. The op amps shouldn't matter but the transistors could well change the sound. After dialing in the trimpot, I get most of the phasing effect in the last 20% of the rate knob. At the highest setting it has more of a vibrato feel. Sounds good, but more vibrato than phasing. Backing the knob off full by even a tiny bit and it's back in phaser territory.
So it works well enough to box, and I can try the original spec transistors when they arrive. I could also try my other 2 matched J201s.
One minor hiccup: I got so carried away with the MDF jig to hold the jacks in place for soldering that I forgot the DC jack is threaded on the inside, so it needs to be soldered into the enclosure. I had to cut the wires and will fix when I box in a day or so.
Also, if I have the energy I could try to create a reverse log taper pot. That might give me a bit more control in the upper 20% of the range. Should be as simple as hooking a 2k resistor in parallel to the pot. That's one for tomorrow...
I last played a Phase 45 in 1977. I now have a Phase 95, which does both the 45 and 90 thing in a mini package.
Do they do the vibrato thing with the rate knob maxed? I bet they dont[emoji16]Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
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