Nice. Very Suhr-esque.
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Nice. Very Suhr-esque.
It was time to do the electronics control cavity. I started off by planning the layout on my template, adjusting the knob and switch positions according to my playing style. Then I drew a shape around the knobs and switch to form the back plate shape.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...psjb6akbco.png
I cut out the shape with my jigsaw and then shaped it.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...psastckenp.png
Once I was happy with the shape, I traced it out onto my pickup and neck template, and marked out the actual control cavity shape.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...ps68olerth.png
Then I drilled relief holes and routed out the cavity.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...ps8wvamcsv.png
I then transferred the knobs and switch design to the top. I decided I wanted the knobs to be slightly recessed but not so dramatic like PRS.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...pswvox716i.png
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...pswdp2dhdm.png
20mm not 22mm bit.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...psewmappa8.png
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...psa4rhj2wy.png
Love what your doing mate...
To make the switch slot, there are a few ways which I've seen. I could go with a 1/8" router bit and use a template, or a dremel, or drill holes and cut it out by hand. I realised a lot could go wrong with the router and the dremel. One slip and that's it! So I decided to try drill 3mm holes in a line and cut them out.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...psm2o7s7fv.png
I cut the wood in between each holes with a utility blade.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...pskdj29xgq.png
Then I finished shaping the slot straight with a needle file and some sand paper.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...psac7hie5t.png
I reckon it's not perfectly straight so I'd have to work on it later, but the whole process took about 30mins. It may have been easier, faster and cleaner with a dremel so I might try that next time.
Once the top was taken care of, I paid attention to the curves. While this is a modern strat inspired guitar, I still want to retain the nice curves on it.
I used this 1/2" radius round over bit on the bottom. With such a large bit it's important to go slow.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...ps1morlf9e.png
This new bit gave me a super clean cut.
Then I switched to a 1/8" radius bit for the top. Since I don't intend to stain the top or put any binding, I figured out that was the perfect roundness.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...psqvmtekwv.png
While thinking of the design, I wanted to add a cut away for the upper frets access on the lower horn. I've seen this done on some guitars like the Suhr modern and I liked it.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...psdptwufes.png
And I also did the tummy contour. I did this a few times on some guitar kits so it wasn't foreign to me (contours on a tele - gasp!). However, I took about an hour to shape it. The best part was customising the shape to my liking.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...psiezl559r.png
Once all the shaping has been done, I turned my attention to some unfinished business.
I had to connect the cavities to the master control centre.
I drilled from the neck pocket all the way to the bridge pickup with a long 8mm bit. I could also have routed channels on the body before gluing the top on but back then I hadn't decided on the layout of the cavities. Anyway all the holes will be covered up so that doesn't matter.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...psrc32ypkv.png
Drilling from the bridge into the control cavity.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...psacvrshau.png
And the ground wire from the spring cavity into the control cavity.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...psctnbg6gh.png
It was so therapeutic seeing the bit emerge from a blind area into the cavity. Fortunately I didn't screw up drilling out of the body.
And the last thing that needed to be done was to drill the output jack hole. I planned where the jack would sit and I like it similar to the teles and les pauls where they are just to the side. This keeps the cable away from my thigh.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...pslmeygsmv.png
Then I drilled a large cavity with a 22mm bit until the jack could fit in nicely. This took a lot of time because of the end grain I think.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...psaktpsif3.png
Because the 22mm bit was drilled at an angle towards the centre of the body, I had to switch to another bit to drill down to the control cavity.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...psrnnpfmow.png
Well, the final thing was to drill the bridge post holes, so I could do a dry fit before I start preparing for finishing. I made a template to make sure the posts were perfectly spaced out, because the last thing you want to do was to drill it onto the top, realising after hours of hard work the bridge cannot fit.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...psxkf2dfoq.png
Very nice work, love what your doing.
Now the guitar is almost complete. Next I'll have to align the neck with the bridge, check that the action is ok and test fit the hardware. I've come this far and everything has been going well so I hope nothing major screws up!
And I can't stress the importance of the centre line in the body. This is perhaps the most crucial bit of the process. Fortunately, with everything positioned in reference to the centre line, the bridge, pickups and neck are all aligned.
I'll leave you with some pictures before I put it all together.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...psseknrqvj.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...psicd5q7o4.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...pskktkz6sb.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...pssyrarijn.jpg
More...
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...psooogt6mf.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...psdf1yf2kl.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...psgvhihiel.jpg
Sorry for the blur pictures! I'll use a better camera once I'm done with it.
Also for anyone who is on the fence of starting a scratch build, go for it! Hopefully this build diary has been inspiring. As you can see I don't have much skills or tools to begin with so you pick them up as you go.
You DO have skills, my friend! Amazing work
Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk
Simon, this is a true thing of beauty you are creating, I stand and applaud. Fantastic job so far and thank you for your in depth build diary. I've already seen many things that will make my builds easier.
Thanks for the comments guys.
I did a dry fit during the weekend to see if it's playable. The action was super low, practically unplayable, so I'll have to deepen the neck pocket by a bit and/or change the neck angle.
Here's what it looks like with the hardware in place. I didn't bother wiring it up because I just wanted to test the playability. Some issues with intonation for now but that can be sorted out later on. I definitely have to recrown my frets because I suspect they're causing some intonation issues too.
The neck is extremely thin and comfy to play. Hopefully it will hold up and not snap haha.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...ps3h3pffts.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...psf9gkmnjg.jpg
I've started the final sanding and grain filled the neck. Should be able to start the clear coats real soon.
Stay tuned!
OMG she looks amazing Simon. Superb work. That top man! Can't wait to see the clear coats go on.
cheers,
Gav.
Thanks Gavin. I'm still preparing for finishing. I hate sanding so much haha.
After days of sanding (did I mention how much I hate sanding?), I grain filled the neck and body with walnut Timbermate, left it to dry and sanded more.
I finally managed to get some finish on. My choice was Minwax wipe on poly. I had used it before and had great results, and also I have a huge can of it sitting on my shelf so might as well use it.
This is the neck after one coat of wipe on poly.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...ps80l5c5ff.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...psrqgfu4xh.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...pshsu0s4ls.jpg
The walnut timbermate really brought out the grain in the QLD maple, which should be QLD mahogany btw. It's just like mahogany, not maple!
The neck after the 5th coat and the body after the first coat.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...psym3ugws4.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...psq4tpjjg6.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...psoflqcyq1.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...pszvnokyx4.jpg
Really hard to get good pictures for now but I'll use a better camera and better lighting once it's done.
Some pics of the QLD maple on the back.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...psdbnccv62.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...psbi08f91m.jpg
very nice Simon, this build is getting closer to assembly, exciting times
EDIT that veneer is popping like mad, never seen a veneer with so much sick grain
only disappointment was the no show of the safety boots mate !
Grain filled QLD maple looks awesome man.
Cheers,
Gav.
This is absolutely a stunning piece of work, total awe over here!
Hey Franken isn't it your birthday in a couple of day ? Simon said he is giving it away to the next forumites birthday as a present hahah
On a side note, look at what arrived this morning...
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...ps5iayc7iy.jpg
Noice one Simon.
nice stash Simon, don't tell me you are starting another scratch build ?
I was only joking about you giving the guitar to Franken, I will PM you my postal address Simon LOL
hey Simon, me cheeky, you have the wrong bloke LOL
storing timber, best store in a room that has a steady-ish temperature and humidity if possible.
I usually store in a room that is away from afternoon sun if possible.
think of the timber as cellaring a fine red wine
I think your garage is probably ideal, assuming there are apartments/rooms above ? Should be a nice steady temperature there
Where is the subscribe button!!?!? IS that an Ebony FB blank and Quilted Maple? Are we looking at another Super Strat Build?
Haha ok I got the wrong bloke.
I live in a typical Sydney apartment in a block of 8 units, and we have a garage, where I do my work, and a separate storage room. I also have an enclosed balcony which gets plenty of air flow but probably has the greatest fluctuations in temperature and humidity.
So do you reckon the storage room, which has no sunlight but only some air vents (makes a great area to hold a prisoner btw :O ), would be the best choice? I think I might purchase a hygrometer to check the humidity.
Not sure where that button is Franken! But yes that's an ebony FB and flamed maple drop top, plus a flamed maple neck. I just got them from StewMac. I figured out since I spent so much time making the templates and all might as well do another strat build!
I'll have to wait at least 2 weeks to get started on that. Have to wait for the wood to acclimatise first.
hey Simon I think storage room should be perfect for storing the timber. If you are starting in 2 -3 weeks then it's not that important
ask DB as a reference Simon he will say I am definitely not cheeky bwhahah