Sam that's an ideal spray booth. You got cover from falling debris and ventillation, what more do you want !
It's a step up from the tree spray booths we have seen on the forum hahah
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Sam that's an ideal spray booth. You got cover from falling debris and ventillation, what more do you want !
It's a step up from the tree spray booths we have seen on the forum hahah
Checking this morning to make sure there are no runs in the latest primer coat and I notice this on the front edge of the upper horn.
Attachment 5024
At some point a ding has crept in. Presumably after I did the grainfiller.
It really is quite small. Less than 1mm across. Probably need to be looking for it to find it (and I sort of was, I was looking for runs though).
Wondering what my options are. Sand it back and fill it then respray? Hope that the layers of top coat will fill it in?
Personally I would drop fill it with some clearcoat and sand it back flat.
cheers,
Gav.
Any particular reason why clear coat?Quote:
Originally Posted by gavinturner
Currently just has primer on it.
And while I'm at it, what's "drop fill"?
It depends on how much the dent will annoy you and how far you're willing to go to fix it. You could sand back, fill, sand and re-spray. Or, sand back and steam the dent out, then sand, fill and sand again if needed, then re-spray. If you think you can fill it enough with paint and clear to hide it, then that will be the least involved option.
There's going to be several coats of white, then at least a few of clear yet. Maybe that will fill it.
I could try putting a blob of primer in (is that what Gav meant by drop filling?).
Short bit of research later and some howtos on drop filling and I've used a toothpick to put some primer into the dent. It's really quite shallow. Give it a few days to cure and pay more attention to that section when I come to wet sand the primer.
So I gave the primer coat a light wet sand today and some edges showed through as wood so I figure its back to spraying a couple more coats primer.
so Sam has it only got 1 coat of primer on now ? thats pretty standard to sand through edges of the 1st coat of primer
It has 4 spray sessions of primer on it. Just seems very thin.
But what are you saying? Don't worry about the edges? Or spray another coat?
yeah Sam keep spraying primer so there is no visible bare wood after wet sanding. Thin coats are the way to go.
Cool, that's what I thought. Had to order another rattle can though as I don't think there's a whole session left in the current can.
what sort of primer you using Sam ? should only cost $10-15 for another can unless its flash stuff
"Rothko + Frost Nitro Sanding Sealer Primer Aerosol - White"
It's not a problem. Already ordered it.
So I put a few more coats of the primer on. I think that makes about 10 spray sessions/coats. Apparently I spray fairly thin so I just did more coats.
Attachment 5355
But I'm a little saddened to see this (the streaks where it looks like grain showing through):
Attachment 5356
My first thought is that the original grainfiller stage has failed me.
Should I be concerned? There's still a half dozen solid colour top coats to go over this.
Is this a case of sand it back and use the grain filler again, spray more primer/sealer on that section, leave it and keep going, or something else?
Anyone got some advice for me?
So a few light coats of primer over the area where the grain was still showing and it appears to have filled it. Guess I'll find out when it comes time to sand it before the top coats.
How annoying for you Tin...
It might need a bit more of a sand to flatten it out completely.
Hang in there mate, I am sure you will nail it and this Axe will turn out beautifully
yeah Sam you may find you need a bit more filler before the next coat
It looks more like this now.
Attachment 5410
So it's still a little dimpled, but at least it doesn't look like wood showing through.
Another coat has gone on since. Will leave it a couple of days and sand it smoothish. See if it needs moar coats.
I think at this point though the top coats won't show the same dimples. So feeling a bit gladder.
Nice save Sam :)
It would be best to cut it back smooth with 320 grit before you go in with the next phase, otherwise those pesky dimples will only get worse.
Sam you still may need some filler. See how it looks after it cures and you have sanded it
Looks like I'm getting another can of primer.
The edges of the headstock sanded through much too easily.
The dimpled area needs some more to fill it properly. The last gasp of the previous can helped a lot, but it still needs a bit more.
No rush.
So I did get another can of primer. Did a few coats, and some extra attention at the edges where it sanded through too quickly.
Gave it another sanding today, was happy with the result so I've just sprayed the first top (not top) coat, an Arctic White nitro.
Nice stuff Sam, today is perfect spraying weather! The paint should cure up faster over the next few days!
Arctic white nitro coats are going on nicely.
Attachment 5753Attachment 5754
Had a coat that ran a little, sanded it back. Now I'm spraying sides and front/back with a 15 minute break between them so the overlap doesn't build up too much.
looks excellent Sam, keep up the good work
Here's the next shot in the series. I actually took this a month ago in a hurry. Didn't realise it was blurry until I looked at it now.
Attachment 6448
The nut arrived in the post this week. A TUSQ nut shaped to fit by DB. Goes in the box of hardware waiting for the final installation.
Attachment 6449
nice one Sam glad this project is back from the backburner
Backburner? No... was never that.Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
well you been working on the IB-6 haven't seen an update on this build for ages so assumed it was on the backburner
nice to see this one Sam, looks good
I'll post another update that will fill in the month since that previous photo. It's not done yet.
good stuff Sam sounds like the build has progressed a fair bit since the last photo
So, it's been a year of gathering decoration for the guitar. Then a couple of months putting a clear coat over the top.
Finally getting around to installing the hardware.
The bridge, nut, machine heads, strap pins are installed. Putting the pickups in I got to thinking about copper shielding.
I was told to be careful of the braid on the pickup leads - that if it touched the copper it would short the pickup.
This confused me, as I thought the braid would be the ground wire of the pickup, with the centre being the "hot".
In that case wouldn't it be desirable (or at least inconsequential) for the braid to touch the copper? As the copper and the braid would both be "ground"?
Attachment 16730
(You can see the braided leads, haven't put the copper in yet. The neoprene blocks are instead of springs to hold the P90s level with the screws holding their height.)
Hi Sam, I'm new here since you last posted on this. The shielding won't short the pickups unless you've decided to reverse the polarity of one of the pickups, swapping the signal and ground connections for an out-of-phase both pup selected sound - when touching the shielding will ground one of them. If one of them is RPRW with respect to the other for a hum-cancelling mid position,
then the shield will still be ground on both pups.
Otherwise, you are correct, the braid is a ground, as should be any copper shielding. Even the pickup screws should be at a ground potential. In an ideal world, the pickup shield and the copper shielding wouldn't touch, as it's always best for there only to be a single path back to the main ground point. But with multiple ground paths in a very small distance of the common ground point, it normally doesn't make that much difference, though you might get a bit more noise than if the pickup lead had a plastic sheath and the ground paths were independent. If in any doubt, simply wrap some electrical insulating tape around the pickup cables where they may come into contact with the copper shielding.
P90s with their large flat coils are prone to picking up all the electrical noise going, so it's certainly wise to shield as much of the body cavities as possible.
I lined the pickup routes and control cavity with copper tape. Got confused about the high resistance between the different sections until I realised the copper wire I'd used is enamel. Fixed that and got much more reasonable results.
Working on how a 2 x V, 2 x T, 3-way switch wiring diagram applies to the concentric pots I've got. Probably be over a week before I get time to do soldering though.
Draw it all out and check it twice or more, before committing to the soldering. If you use paper and pen, you can still take a picture of it and post it here to be checked if you feel unsure.
It's the same circuit I've used before. Just the first time I've had to go 3D on it with stacked pots.
As long as you remember which is the outer control (the top pot) and which is the inner knob (the bottom pot), you should be fine. Presumably if one pot is audio taper and one is linear, then that decides which you are using for volume and which for tone?