Build #2 Non PitBull Rebuild - Vintage Brand Strat Copy

Time to start painting. Nervous. One v light coat of primer to start with, at least got a nice day for it.

Attachment 21907

Waiting for the primer to dry, got the electrics done and tested. All working as designed with the 7 way switch mod in place. The jack isn't soldered, just twisted the wires on to test.

Attachment 21914

OHhhhhhh Tonerider classic blues for strat Cheeky!!!

So, refinishing the neck, its going to be straight TO probably. Question with maple being pretty dense, would doing an ebony timbermate help bring out the bit of grain there is, or would I just be putting it on and sanding it off for no real gain?

Cheers
Attachment 22039
Attachment 22040

First coats of HiFill primer, I thought it was flat till I put it on, geez it shows everything up.

Hadn't thought about it before, but looking at it like this, I'm warming to the idea of relic'ing it. We'll see how we go.

Attachment 22042

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Rossc0

Question with maple being pretty dense, would doing an ebony timbermate help bring out the bit of grain there is

---

Probably not. There just isn't the grain holes to push it into.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Rossc0

First coats of HiFill primer, I thought it was flat till I put it on, geez it shows everything up.

Hadn't thought about it before, but looking at it like this, I'm warming to the idea of relic'ing it. We'll see how we go.

Attachment 22042

---

Give it a chance. I think I've done 6 passes of hi fill and primer on mine and its only now starting to looks like its properly finished. I would also highly recommend giving the initial 3 coats or so a week to harden and out gas properly before continuing. Particularly with rattle can hi-fill there can be a lot of sink back. So it will look great initially and then a few months down the track once its properly cured you can see the wood grain emerging again. For someone like me who struggles with patience on things like this it can be hard, but I promise it is worth it.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Sonic Mountain

Give it a chance. I think I've done 6 passes of hi fill and primer on mine and its only now starting to looks like its properly finished. I would also highly recommend giving the initial 3 coats or so a week to harden and out gas properly before continuing. Particularly with rattle can hi-fill there can be a lot of sink back. So it will look great initially and then a few months down the track once its properly cured you can see the wood grain emerging again. For someone like me who struggles with patience on things like this it can be hard, but I promise it is worth it.

---

mmm, patience. Suppose I can try. I do have the Tele sitting waiting can start sanding that while I wait I suppose.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Rossc0

mmm, patience. Suppose I can try. I do have the Tele sitting waiting can start sanding that while I wait I suppose.

---

you shouldn't need any more than 3 coats of hi fill if its taking that many coats your not sanding it enough or flat enough with the initial sand you should ALWAYS use a sanding block and if your going for a paint finish do not sand with the grain, use circular pattern your trying to paint a smooth flat surface staining is a different sand process its a pretty common mistake when doing a killer glass finish and you cant figure out why its wavy

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by phrozin

you shouldn't need any more than 3 coats of hi fill if its taking that many coats your not sanding it enough or flat enough with the initial sand you should ALWAYS use a sanding block and if your going for a paint finish do not sand with the grain, use circular pattern your trying to paint a smooth flat surface staining is a different sand process its a pretty common mistake when doing a killer glass finish and you cant figure out why its wavy

---

Top tip phrozin I've discovered this through trial & error