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Looks like you still need to connect the left-hand (in image) unused lugs of the two volume pots to ground on their respective casings (the volume pots each need a path to ground). Just gently push the lug back until it touches the casing and solder it in place, or if you prefer not to bend the lug you can solder a short length of wire from the lug to the back of the pot.
Also, it may pay to check both of your caps to make sure the leg that connects to the pot's middle lug doesn't touch, press against, or have some solder on, the pot casing (looks kinda close on the one nearest the output jack). If those lug side legs make contact with the casing you will essentially be bypassing the cap and sending the unfiltered signal to ground (which would be bad). In situations where a lead may short against something else you can either use heatshrink tubing, or slide some stripped plastic insulation onto the lead before you solder it, just to be safe.
If you have a multimeter it is a good idea to check continuity with your grounds and switch etc. And, if you have some alligator leads just clip a pickup onto a volume pot, connect a headphone amp to the output and gently tap the polepieces on the pickup with something metal like a screwdriver... that at least allows you to check for sound, volume etc, but won't tell you if it will sound good. Use a headphone amp if you can, as even at low volumes the tapping can be harsh on speakers.
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Cool. Thanks Scott, totally missed that left hand lug!
Looking back at the diagram I was following...the capacitor on the tone pots isn't supposed to be touching the right hand lug is it, but it looks like it might in the diagram? Cause I didn't do that...
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The tone pot typically has the wire connect to the middle lug and one leg of the cap connect to the left lug and the other leg to ground on the back of the pot (or the wire goes to the left lug and cap leg on the middle lug, like yours). As long as one leg of the cap is connected to the pot lug and the other end is grounded, then it will act as a filter like it's supposed to. The 'right' lug (in image) should not have a connection on a tone pot (in most cases).
Just wondering... do the Pit Bull 'L' kits (for the non-standard segment of society) have standard pots, or reverse log pots etc? Because the type of pot and the way you wire them willl impact how they function ie., clockwise on/off etc.
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That's a good question...I'm assuming it does, but it never occurred to me that the wiring diagram was specific for a righty.
Crap.
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Look for markings on your pots, there should be something like 500KA or A500K (where the A could be either A, B, or C). If they are marked with an A then they are 'right hander' log/audio taper. If they are B then they are linear taper (non-handed), and if they are C they should be reverse audio/anti-log taper 'left hander' pots. I'm hoping they are marked, but if not then you can use a multimeter to find out what they are. The tapers associated with A, B and C markings aren't necessarily standard, but the above are the most common for us. And, when I say 'right hander'/'left hander' I'm referring to the player, not the technical description of the taper slope.
The next issues are: how do you want your controls to function, and what are you used to? Do you want your max volume to be at clockwise or anti-clockwise rotation etc? How are your other lefty guitars wired, do you have a preference?
