Astracaster First Build FS-1

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Originally Posted by neverwas

Welcome Drashkum, the neck fit has been asked about before and have these pics of my finished FS.
Attachment 44151Attachment 44152
Yours looks as it should. The 'bump' on the high e side of the neck heel can be flattened with a medium to smooth file if needed.
As you are planning on staining, remember to not put stain or top coat finish on the neck heel or pocket where they are glued together.
There is a build diary somewhere.
https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...ead.php?t=7401

Grant

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Thank you for the link. I just read through your entire build diary. That was one cool build. And Thank you for those pics. It gives me a lot of confidence to go about the build.

I am not sure if I should sand the high E bump in the neck or to file it. I am a orthopaedic surgeon. I have bone working skills. This is my first time with wood although the skill sets are similar 🤣

I have a few specific questions.
If sanding - what grit am I supposed to use?
If filing - what sort of a file I should buy? Can someone put up a reference picture or a pic of the file that you guys have?

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Originally Posted by fender3x

I have built a couple of basses that are similar (ESB-4 types), and yours looks pretty close. The real test is when you string it, so you may want to make that part of your dry-fit. You want to make sure that everything lines up. The strings should go over the screws on the pickups. The strings should be the proper height over the pickups. the string length should be right to the bridge. If all that checks out then life is good ;-)

I had sort of promised myself no more guitars with binding or veneer...but yours looks very cool and has had the unfortunate consequence of activating my GAS ;-) Glad it came through customs OK. I am sure that Adam will get back to you about the file. Fortunately, you don't use it until you are most of the way through the build so it has a little time to get there.

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Thank you. I have noted down all that you have said in the post. I have just got a 100cm Straight edge / ruler, Caliper and 0000 steelwool today. Before trying a mock fit with string I want to sand the neck in such a way it snug fits into the neck pocket. Will try a mock fit with strings as soon as it is possible and will keep you posted sir.
Yes it is indeed a nice kit. Happy that I came through the customs. I am glad you like it. I see so many builders like you doing a fantastic job. As a newbie to this sometimes it becomes so overwhelming. I hope I persevere and do a decent job with this with all your help

Mr. Adam has not got back to me yet. May be he is held up in clearing the shipment. Will try to Mail him today again.

Updates on the build

Have ordered a Piezo Tunomatic bridge and Artec MB1 and it has already shipped.

I also got my shipment of Long 100cm Ruler /straightedge, Caliper for measurement today
https://i.ibb.co/whFxXkx/IMG-20230404-174741.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/h7Kzrp0/IMG20230404104823.jpg

The Piezo bridge is a really interesting idea. Will be very interested in seeing what you do with that and how it sounds.

The one thing that I would consider, is NOT using 0000 steel wool, but rather using something like a Scotchbrite pad like these:

https://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/...f-document.pdf

Steel wool can leave steel splinters, dust etc. It's especially bad if you use water based finishes because the splinters can rust. The sanding pads are cleaner and won't leave a residue that can react with the finish. They are also cleanable, so last considerably longer than sandpaper, and come in different grits.

I was not aware that working with bone (other than nuts) was similar to working with wood. Fortunately the prognosis when working with guitars is generally good, and the patient never bleeds or complains.

Before I start sanding or filing the neck, I wanted to show you this video of neck Dryfit into the pocket. I don't know what is the normal force that you use to fit neck into the pocket for this type of set neck. I feel that it doesn't go so easily as I see it in some of the video in youtube. Its tight, so I wiggle it into it's place.

It may be normal too and I am just a newbie making a wrong assessment based on what i see in videos. So i wanted to show you guys this video and know if I really have to sand that bump on the neck before the mock fit

Link
https://youtu.be/1AC56qnbGhs

Please do share your opinion.


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I certainly would not sand much off. You definitely don't want it to be loose. Others will chime in, but tight is generally good. The only time it's not, with a glue on neck, is when it is so tight that all the glue gets squeezed out so that it's just bare wood on bare wood. I don't think that has ever happened to me, though. If the force on the sides is not greater than what you could apply with a clamp, then it's probably OK. I can say that the amount of force you are using to put on yours looks about he same as mine, which has stayed glued now for years. I actually used a one handed clamp to squeeze mine into place. Hope this helps! Also hope others will chime in.

I have a few questions about mock/ dry fit
I know I have to see if the neck is centered and the string spacing and spacing from edge is also ok
I also know that I have to check the scale Length. I saw a post here a while ago on how to set the scale Length. Ill try to check it

I want to know if I should thread the tunomatic post and studs fully inside the holes. If it is fully inside how can I remove it back from the hole?. Do I require a special gear or some thing?

Should i also check the action and bridge height while Mock fit?

Any pointers on threads for mock fit would be of great value


As I checked today t one if the holes for the tail piece of TOM doesn't have wood all around

https://i.ibb.co/Dfw8yzd/IMG20230407104608.jpg

Should this be reinforced before I insert the studs of the tailpiece?

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Originally Posted by fender3x

I certainly would not sand much off. You definitely don't want it to be loose. Others will chime in, but tight is generally good. The only time it's not, with a glue on neck, is when it is so tight that all the glue gets squeezed out so that it's just bare wood on bare wood. I don't think that has ever happened to me, though. If the force on the sides is not greater than what you could apply with a clamp, then it's probably OK. I can say that the amount of force you are using to put on yours looks about he same as mine, which has stayed glued now for years. I actually used a one handed clamp to squeeze mine into place. Hope this helps! Also hope others will chime in.

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Thank you. I shall refrain from sanding then. Will try to dry fit this, weekend and send a pic here. I really hope the neck is centered

I am also planning to stain it with waterbased leather dye from cratly.

They sent me a few shades
https://i.ibb.co/7QYwp4t/IMG-20230406-WA0039.jpg

I am inching towards doing it in orange which is my son's favourite colour. But what colour do u guys thing would go well with this kit

Drashkum




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I've just done a switch replacement on my mate's son's Dean Colt for the piezo switch which he had broken.

The sound was interesting in an odd way, I certainly couldn't get anything approximating an acoustic sound, just sounded a bit like a single coil in the bridge position and that's pretty much how it sounded when blended.

I watch with interest because it is always interesting to see folks try something different

"I want to know if I should thread the tunomatic post and studs fully inside the holes. If it is fully inside how can I remove it back from the hole?. Do I require a special gear or some thing?"

No, do not put the posts in. I have read that some members wrap masking tape around the posts so that they will fit quite well in the holes, but easily removed.

The studs are normally hammered in, or some people use a clamp system to insert them. The studs can be removed (with special stud puller gear, or adapted paint lid openers!) but this can damage the top. I have not needed to remove any yet!

"Should i also check the action and bridge height while Mock fit?"

Yes, you need to ensure that a good action can be achieved before the neck is glued in. There are lots of threads about some builds needing shims or sanding to get a good neck position.

"the tail piece of TOM doesn't have wood all around, should this be reinforced before I insert the studs of the tailpiece?"

I think it should! I do not like the look of that. I know that this problem has been discussed before - but I cannot find the thread. I'm not sure how it was solved!

Maybe a small block of wood (that can fit in the f-hole), pulled into place using string (through the post hole), can be glued onto that edge of the main body block!!!????

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Originally Posted by Trevor Davies

I think it should! I do not like the look of that. I know that this problem has been discussed before - but I cannot find the thread. I'm not sure how it was solved!

Maybe a small block of wood (that can fit in the f-hole), pulled into place using string (through the post hole), can be glued onto that edge of the main body block!!!????

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Should i mail pitbull guitars with the picture and ship it back and get a replacement?. I am not sure how that can be done through the F hole.

I have already mailed them twice on the missing fret crowning file but haven't got a reply for past week. I am not sure if I would get a reply. Is there anyother way to contact them


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I have had two semi-hollow body builds (both basses) and both had the problem of one of the holes being not fully in the center block. Unfortunately. It's one reason (not the only one, alas) that both of mine have solid color tops.

The stop-tailpiece will not work if the posts are not solidly in the center block. So, your choices are to send it back or try to fix it. If the shipping is not too expensive that may be a decent option, but you will want them to make absolutely sure that the one they send you back does not have the same problem. Since the neck and bodies are somewhat matched, you might want to have them replace the whole kit. Since I am in the US back and forth from Australia would have been about the same as buying a new kit...so I have some experience, for better or worse, at trying to fix this problem.

The problem may be related to the neck is not being precisely 90 degrees to the body center-line. It may be one or two degrees south of that, resulting in the bridge hole being just north of the center block. Not a big deal as long as the holes are in the center block...but a big deal if they are not. I wondered about this when I saw your video but was not sure...but now that I have seen that a post-hole is off the center block...

Attachment 44173

I wasn't sure when I first saw the video, but now I wonder...the side of the upper bout should blend smoothly into the neck with no "step". It looks like there may be a step, which would could mean the center-line was skewed slightly clockwise when they were routing. That might not be a big deal (I had a similar issue on my ESB-4)...

https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...ead.php?t=5339

...but the post being slightly off the centerblock definitely is a big deal. The post will not stay in place without something to hold its outer edge.

If you decide to keep the body you can glue a small piece of wood in on the side of the center block. I have one in my ESB-4, and it has held well since 2016, so I guess it works ;-)

You need a piece of wood that is about 10 x 2 x1 cm. Slather the side that will be in contact with the center block and the top with tightbond. Slip it through the f-hole and hold it in place for 10-15minutes. That's long enough for tightbond to set as long as there is no tension on the wood. Then leave it for 24-48 hours to dry completely. Because of the curvature of the top, the piece of wood won't be flush with the top everywhere, but it will bond well to the center block. That should provide enough wood so that your ferrule has something to hold it laterally, even if there is a little gap between the top and the piece of wood.

This is doable, and I think it would work well for the bridge, which really just has downward pressure from the strings, so you are really just making sure the post does not shift laterally and the ferrule is tight enough so that you can adjust the post up and down. I am not sure how well I like this solution for the stop-tailpiece, however. The stop-tailpiece has string tension pulling it toward the nut so i would want it to be really firm.

Alternatively, you could plug the holes for the stop-tailpiece, and use a trapeze, like what I did with my ESB-4. If you are really careful, the plugs would be mostly under the trapeze and you might still get away with staining.

I did something more radical with my Jazz/ES hybrid... Doable, and I ended up liking the outcome, but it insures that the top will need to be finished in a solid color.

Jazz/ES hybrid big round dowel solution is documented here...

https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...ck+gibson+body

Just one other quick thought FWIW. The Starcaster and Coronado modern players came out at the same time. The original Starcaster had a one-piece bridge/tailpiece, like a fancier version of a hardtail strat bridge. The modern player version had a Gibson-esque bridge and tailpiece like your kit. However, the original Coronados were hollow bodies (not semi-hollow) and had a trapeze (I have one) and a floating bridge. The modern player Coronados kept the trapeze, but added a center block and a bridge like yours. My experience with my bass and with my Coronado is that the trapeze works very well, especially with a post-bridge like yours. Better than the stop tailpiece in some ways, because it puts downward pressure on the bridge. Since it is anchored at end of the center-block it holds the string tension really well as well. I know there are people who think the stop tailpiece provides better sustain. I don't find much difference.