Build #2 - PSH-1 (Redux)

It's not how low it sits, but the angle it's at. Run a straight edge (a 600mm is best if the nut is fitted) along the neck to where the bridge goes. Can you fit the bridge in the gap, allowing for the height of the inserts etc?

Hi Simon,

Here’s a photo with a straight edge running from nut to bridge. It is sitting atop the nut on the low E string slot and atop the bridge on the low E string saddle.

Attachment 42561

The bridge will need to go up by a couple of mm from that to get the strings off the fretboard. So as long as you have allowed for the post insert rim height and the bridge post height adjustment ring the bridge sits on, you should be fine.

Just looking at the neck angle when you ran the straight edge, is your neck foot sitting flush with body as it looks like it is tilting back. Suggest clamping and checking again.


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Thanks @Simon Barden and @mrpearson.

I think the break angle is fine and I will have a good action. But!

@mrpearson, after reading your comment I decide to have a look at how flat the neck tenon is. Take a look at the picture. When I hold it down flat the toe of tenon seems to be raised about 0.5mm. This would explain how the neck angle appeared to be an issue the first time I checked it when I clamped only over the tenon and not the end of the fretboard.

I checked both the neck tenon and the pocket using my fret rocker. The base of the pocket is totally flat. The tenon definintely is angled towards the toe starting about 1.5cm from the end.

Is this a problem? If I don't have a tight join at that end of the tenon, will this result in a issue glueing in the neck or, at the very least be sub-optimal from a sustain perspective.

Attachment 42566 Attachment 42567

It's not great, as the tenon is there to provide more glue area to hold the neck firmly, and only half of thee extension is in contact. I'd be tempted to stick a bit of maple veneer on the end of the tenon and sand it down to the angle of the rest of the heel.

Also, with that gap, you don't want to clamp down hard on the end of the tenon, so that the neck end lifts away from the base of the neck pocket.

I was thinking the same thing, thanks Simon.
I'll work on that. I'm thinking that if I can fashion something appropriate, I'd glue it to the neck and make it is flush before glueing the neck into the pocket? Or should I do it the other way around?

I'd glue the veneer to the neck, otherwise it's a lot harder to make sure it's in the right place and at the right angle.

I've sorted out the neck heel. I used a 0.5 degree shim I had from Stewmac. I ended up needing to glue two pieces atop each other to fill the gap and level it all out. I little bit of sanding left to do to even it all out without changing the the angle and I am good with this - much better.

In other interesting news, I thought I would try something different on the fretboard.

I ordered a set of inlay stickers from Jockomo (https://www.inlaystickers.com/produc...of-life-custom). After quite a bit of cutting and careful fiddling, I have applied these to my fretboard. It looks very nice.

It remains to be seen how playable the guitar is with these on, and how long they will last, but no harm done if I need to fully remove the fake inlays.

Attachment 42570

Hi. Just officially finished my psh. If you have not set your neck I would double down on measuring your neck angle and make sure the strings touch the fret board on the lowest settings. I ditched my musiclily bridge as it was rattling and had lousy sustain. Installed a gotoh wrap around bridge which is excellent but I had far less adjustment in intonation and also after getting it as low as it could go I have a 2mm action which is perfect but I had no where else to go Phew. Mike


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