Looking really good Robin.
Printable View
Looking really good Robin.
Very nice work, Robin.
I'd tape the top on before gluing it and see if you can get the piezo lead (and any other leads you need to wire-up) connected with the access you've given yourself. If you can, then all well and good. If you can't, then it's time for a plan B before it's a lot harder to implement.
@Waz
Too old to get into any mischief mate. lol.
@Kick
Thanks mate, but nothing much to admire. Just learning as I go.
@Fretty
Thanks mate.
@Simon
Yep. I clamped it all together and I think I've got enough access. Just not too sure how to feed the piezo pickup through the central core and up into the bridge. But when the bridge is glued into position it will cover a multitude of sins so I think I will be OK.
Too late now anyway, its all glued up. lol.
Thanks guys
this is a great build Robin, heaps of work here, this thread will teach you and others here a lot
Thanks Stan. Don't know about anyone else, but I'm certainly learning some new stuff.
So the body has now been glued together.
But it was then that I realised that as the body is much thicker than a standard electric guitar the neck screws I had bought were way to short. I would have to leave the ferrules deeply recessed. Then thought that I would bevel the area behind the neck pocket to give me better access to the higher frets. Then I thought, what the heck, why don’t I just try and shape it a bit. So I did.
This is where it started. You can see the bevelled area near the ferrule holes.
Attachment 19719
This is after I started to get stuck into it with a chisel
Attachment 19720
And here it is finished. One of the ferrule holes is still deeply recessed but I wanted to keep the same flowing line from the lower horn but I was restricted by the size of the central core of the guitar. So the ferrule stays recessed and once again a design flaw has been turned into “character”. Lol.
Attachment 19721
Attachment 19722
Binding next.
awe inspiring build Robin. I'm lost for words.
Simply amazing! Love your work Robin
Thanks DM and Andrew.
But its no big deal. Just a few hours with a chisel and some sand paper. I think the secret is to not have a plan, and make it up as you go. lol.
Love the progress Robin, the way the grain pairs up on the lower horn is very fetching. And also how it seems to complement the curve of your cutaway across the neck heel. Very nice stuff.
Thanks Frankie.
I would love to take credit for the grain pattern, but to be honest until you mentioned it I hadn't even noticed it. Ahem, I meant to say yeah, right-on, I spent months choosing just the right grain pattern and glued it just so.
Yeah I would have planned it exactly the same way;)Quote:
Originally Posted by robin
coming along nicely Westie07, keep up the good work mate !
Have to agree that there is very interesting grain patterns on show.
@Warren
Thanks mate. You are ever the encourager.
@Waz
You have no idea how long it took me to decide on that grain pattern. Hahahaha
Thanks guys
First step in binding is to cut a rebate.
Anyone who is familiar with my previous build will remember my “poor man’s” Beading Tool. So out it came and once again. Its simplicity, accuracy and effectiveness made scribing the cut line a piece of cake. By lightly filing down the head of the screw it ends up with a nice sharp edge and it cuts fairly deeply into pine and leaves a great line for the chisel to follow.
Attachment 19779
Attachment 19778
Attachment 19780
After a few hours with the chisel the job is basically done. I still need to go over it with some sandpaper just to make sure the levels are spot on, but that can wait for another day.
Attachment 19781
My next job will be a bit trickier. The binding itself.
nice job Westie07 love how you get around using no power tools
Loving it. LOOOOVING it!I know its only Pine, I know you don't like us talking you up Robin, but this stuff is awesome, truly wonderful to see it progress. Keep doing what you do because it's superb. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by robin
^^^^What he said!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankenWashie
@Warren
Thanks mate. I just getting in early with the hand tools. In a few years we will either not have regular power or if we do we won't be able to afford it. Everybody will be on the hand tools then. lol
@Frankie and Zandie
Thanks so much guys. I don't really know what else to say, except thank you.
hey Westie07, get solar panels installed for power, I got a system installed last month. The rise of power costs has been absurd in WA, sure it's the same everywhere in Australia
Yeah Warren it's crazy expensive over here in Qld as well. I'm holding off the solar until I get some renos done, but I keep starting new guitars. Lol.
The binding is now finished.
The white plastic did not react to acetone so I had to use super glue to glue the first layer of white binding to the guitar. I found that a thicker super glue works best for this application as it doesn't soak into the wood as much as the runny stuff. So I used a “gel” super glue to give me a longer working time to get the binding in place. Luckily the black binding did react to acetone so once the first white strip of binding was glued to the guitar I was able to use acetone on the black and bind all three layers together.
It turned out a bit messy but luckily I left the binding about .5mm higher than the top of the guitar just in case of a stuff up and to allow me a margin of error that I could sand back. The sides I didn’t worry about too much as it will be given a Walnut stain so that should hide a multitude of sins.
The Binding applied and taped to the guitar.
Attachment 19872
Before sanding. The messy result of using acetone on the black binding.
Attachment 19873
Attachment 19874
After sanding. With aggressive sanding I was able to get a much better result.
Attachment 19875
Attachment 19876
This week I hope to sand through the grades to either 400 or 600 grit and tidy up any “dings” before starting to apply the finish.
Really nice work indeed, Robin.
That is superb Robin. I hope that one day I have the kahunas to put this type of binding on:)
@Simon
Thanks mate.
@Andy
'Tis easy Andy. If I can do it anyone can.
It would've be a lot harder to add purfling, as it is not usually as deep as binding and that would require a second rebate of a different depth. So I took the easy way out, and just made it 3 layers of binding. Darn, I'm letting my secrets out of the bag. lol.
Cheers guys
rob
If I ever grow up I wanna be Robin
Spoiler alert!Quote:
Originally Posted by Dedman
Robin doesn't make it!!https://www.technobuffalo.com/wp-con...an-600x400.jpg
@Dedman
Believe me, you don't.
@Zandie
Darn, I wish you would have given me more notice. I could have made some better decisions.. lol..
Great job, you must be learning heaps
This is such a great thread! Fantastic build Robin.
Robin - haven't commented yet - more from awe inspired silence than anything - overall I am loving this - shape - f holes, overall look, all of it. You're doing a great job and I'm looking forward to seeing it complete.
@Stan
Thanks mate, I know I've learn a whole lot of ways how NOT to do some things. lol.
@John
Thanks John.
@Brendan
Thanks Brendan. Don't forget its only pine. So I'm hoping I at least get a chance to play it before its all twisted out of shape. I have a bad feeling that this one is going to end up on the wall, so the least I can do is make it look good.
Cheers guys
rob
Just catching up with your thread Robin. It's looking amazing! Great work on the binding, and I really love that f-hole.
cheers,
Gsv.
So were the early Fenders - anyone here that would say no to an early Fender? I think you're underselling yourself and it's looking amazing.Quote:
Originally Posted by robin
@Gav
Thanks mate.
@Brendan
Thanks Brendan, but its not just the body that is pine, the neck is a laminate of pine and marine ply. Its the stability of the neck that I have doubts about.
Cheers guys
rob
It’s been a while but I finally got some motivation back so I thought I’d better post a status report.
I’d finished the staining and applied 20 coats of MinWax wipe on poly when I dropped the neck on the floor of the garage and chipped and dented the headstock. So sand back the 20 coats of finish and take the headstock back to bare wood and start again. It was all good experience of repairing a damaged finish and although still noticeable it didn’t turn out too bad.
I used MIxWax on this guitar because I had finally run out of Tru-Oil but luckily I found I had some MinWax left over from a previous build so I decided to use it up before it goes off like the TO did. To apply MinWax it is pretty similar to applying TO, so no drama there.
After 20 coats of MW I let the guitar cure for a week or two and then started the procedure of sanding, cutting and polishing in much the same way as I do with TO.
It was soon fairly obvious that I either didn’t sand down the body as thoroughly as I should or the MinWax is not a self-levelling finish, as while not being too bad it does not have the wet-glass finish I was hoping for. No big deal, as being made of pine it will relic up pretty quickly anyway.
I sanded though a few grades of paper up to 2,000 grit and then went to my go-to cutter, Brasso.
The back of the guitar after sanding back with 2,000 grit paper
Attachment 21155
The back after polishing with Brasso
Attachment 21156
The top, after 2,000 grit
Attachment 21157
And after Brasso
Attachment 21158
…………….
……….. The neck
Attachment 21159
And lastly the headstock
Attachment 21160
I now have to glue on the bridge, cut the nut, I still have to sort out how I’m going to install the piezo pickup and then the final setup. I hope to have it finished next week. I guess I will then find out if it is actually a guitar or just a wall hanging. lol.
Cheers guys
rob
Ooooh! Lots of shiny goodness.
Love your work Robin!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk