Cheers Waz, I'm going to build my wiring loom for this one this afternoon, though I have to extend the Neck PUP wiring for it.
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Cheers Waz, I'm going to build my wiring loom for this one this afternoon, though I have to extend the Neck PUP wiring for it.
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Love that skunk stripe! The DT neck coat is sweet nice simple and easy.
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There is some unevenness in the final on the body, but I think this is potentially due to some air exposure in my bottle of final, I'll need to get more final coat anyhow as I'm out.
Bar the rough bits, the finish is coming up well, lots of grain detail being highlighted in it so I'm really happy.
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Geez Frankie, 2 non black axes which look stunning.
The Ash Tele showing grain contours is how my J Bass ended up and sometimes adds character to a build.
Oh it's getting real now.....https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...3b06eb024f.jpg
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Some more work to do on the body, it may take another couple of coats of DT final, neck is all nice and smooth, but a final coat across it won't hurt. Then we will leave it alone for three or so weeks to cure before we see what's what.
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Wonderful! I still find that grain pattern very intriguing ;)
Grain on the front looks best, thankfully.
Real lucky dip with the multiple planks used on a lot of these kits as to how things turn out.
Where did the neck come from Frankie? Skunk stripe tends to suggest non PBG?
@Waz, it was a failed custom order that Adam chucked on special late last year. The kit itself is 100% PBG, skunkstripe included. Body was only routed for the neck pocket.
Nice score. Gotta wonder what the original thoughts were for PUP's and controls? Really like what you have done, very neat and uncluttered on top.
I think it was supposed to be a thin line so I can only assume it was gong to be routed to suit some specialist pickups. I'm repurposing 2 of the PUPs that were originally in the FrankenWashie (SD Alnico IIs) but i may change these out for something blank covered to push the uncluttered theme further.
The Artist Bullbuckers are supposed to be SD clones and come with chrome covers for $40. Checkout the demo here... https://www.artistguitars.com.au/buy...bridge-c/12935
I can fill that in as I believe this was my order which got messed up. It was supposed to be a left handed thinline and my intent was to build a left handed cabronita and routing for TV jones pickups wasn't available so was going to have a crack myself.
It was a brilliant blank canvas to try out a couple of ideas with. I can imagine the lack of left handedness was a bit of a deal breaker.Quote:
Originally Posted by jboco1
Thanks for filling us in jboco1.
Yeah it's tough to get something that is not standard for a lefty. I like what you have come up with. I have a lefthanded version of the kit now (couldn't get the thinline right) and am eager to get started on building mine but other priorities at the moment hopefully in a month or two I will be able to get started as it's all there ready to go.
Good to hear you have something to work on jboco1.
Still curing, I'm thinking one last coat of final shall see me right on this.
And we've bolloxed the final coat on the headstock....burned through with wet sanding and nailed the Decal.
Back to the drawing board we go.
bummer Franky, how many clear coats did you apply ?
Bugger!
How bad is the decal? If it's only a small bit that's been hacked then I can probably find some black decals that you can cut a patch out of and apply. Then you can just clear coat that bit again?
5 was the final count, but all done in the very thin DT method. Probably should have built up a few more.Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
Thanks for the offer Bill, I’ve got spares it’s more the annoyance of having burned through it than anything else. We shall redecal and go again.Quote:
Originally Posted by billb
If I keep this pace up I may have everything finished by 2021!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...43f60a12f9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c944c19267.jpg
All electrically good, will need to remake the covers as I’m not happy with them, the adjuster holes for the pups are out about 1/8”/3mm and I need some black screws for the main cover and for the neck attachment. The ones that cam with the Cosmo black plate are 4mm, the kit actually uses 5mm.
I’ll get the machine heads into it and then see how it takes to some strings.
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You'll probably finish it way before I get any of my builds finished!
Keep going, Frankie!
I have a bullbucker in my Frankenstein. I like it a lot.Quote:
Originally Posted by wazkelly
you have my solder station :D
No I’m pretty sure that one is mine..
* eyes Igor suspiciously
Igor doesn’t filch tools....just parts...Quote:
Originally Posted by Dedman
Mainly into body parts or necks too?
A little from column A, a little from column B.😉Quote:
Originally Posted by wazkelly
Well, it’s been strung and played a bit.
A faulty barrel jack caused some swear words, along with a bad HB Connection to the mini on/on/on. These have been replaced/resoldered and it is all sweet.
One of the things I had not scoped properly with the Schaller hannes bridge is the height adjustment, it is a screw under the front edge of each saddlehttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5081a67115.jpg
This is a little fiddle when strung up. It does provide a good range raising the saddle but is limited in lowering if you need to.
At the moment the bridge end action is a little higher than I’d like, but this is also in part to the Graphtec nut I made which is sitting far higher than needed
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It definitely needs to come down at least a mm on the low side and probably a smidge on the high side. Once I’ve done that then I’ll probably drop the saddle heights some as well.
It sounds good. It has been 2 years or more since these pups were fired up (both have been recycled from the SC/HB/SC arrangement on the original FrankenWashie) and they still sound smooth and cool as I’d remembered them.
The neck feels good under hand, it’s certainly not a shredder feel but it’s comfortable for thumb on back playing or thumb grabbing play.
We’ll see how it shapes up and settles in over the next little while. I didn’t have a set of kit strings to throw on it, so it has a set of MMF 11-52’s on it, which should give it some pull and show me how the neck is going to react and move.
Still going to remake the covers, really not happy with how they turned out. This initial testing also makes me wonder if I should have done an arm and belly cut. Perhaps this might be best left to a future revisit. For now, I am calling this one done.
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Lost count of how many others you have on the go at the moment.
Good to see you have finally arrived at the finish line on this one. Aftermarket bridges can tend to throw up unexpected challenges, as I found out with one I was going to fit on my EX-5 where lowest saddle heights are way higher than the kit supplied unit. Not much use when needing to lower the action.
You and me both Bro, and thankfully the bride as well!!Quote:
Originally Posted by wazkelly
So long as she has her sewing to keep her occupied. I hope I got that right as my memory seems to recall you mentioning having to build something for your wife for one of her crafty past times.
Well as mentioned in another thread, this fella is in the process of being reimagined.
The DT clear body had turned sticky in patches, Electrics had got a bit hinky and the decision to leave the fretboard uncoated had resulted in it looking tatty.
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After what seemed like a brief eternity, using at first sand paper then Chem stripper then sand paper then a wire brush then rougher sand paper, then finally resorting to card scrapers, we managed to rid the body of the horrid tacky mess that the DT had become.
Mod list
- As shown above, a belly cut and arm cut.
- drilled out and doweled neck screw holes
- doweled neck screw holes in the body
- bored out and filled the jack socket hole ( jack was off Center)
- doweled mount recesses for the Hannes bridge
- neck heel reshaped to match the new body socket profile below.
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The plan was to use stainless threaded inserts in the neck heel and Flat headed furniture screws to mount the neck.
All was going swimmingly…..until it wasn’t.
I’d followed a three step drilling process to mount the inserts
- step 1, 12mm drill in marked mounting points 4 mm deep for flared end of insert.
- step 2, 3mm drill into Center 12 mm deep to provide on Center guide hole
- step 3, work up in mm increments to 9.5mm to open hole out to the required diameter for the stainless inserts.
On the last hole, after drilling everything, and mounting the insert, I’d realised that I hadn’t gone quite deep enough in the 12mm drill to start with. I backed out the insert and proceeded to try and deepen the recess of the hole some more, and the neck decided it didn’t want to play this game.
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This is a great shame as the neck reshaping had gone so well to this point. I’d thinned the neck somewhat, and spent a great deal of time and patience modifying the heel and blending the transition.
I’ve yanked frets 15 through 21, spread glue through the breaks and clamped the hell out of it to see if it can be salvaged. If that works, then with some other fettling it may prove okay.
If not, then I’ll salvage the truss rod and make a new neck from scratch.
Bit of a bummer but it’s all a learning experience.
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Oh dear, that is a shame.
Remember kids, don't do Dingotone or threaded inserts!
Oof
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What I said started with oo, F.Quote:
Originally Posted by dozymuppet
I expect Igor is jumping with joy though, as he now has something to repair.