A smear of soapy water on the surface before applying the decal has a similar effect, allowing you to move it around until the water dries.Quote:
Originally Posted by corsair
Dishwashing liquid works well.
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A smear of soapy water on the surface before applying the decal has a similar effect, allowing you to move it around until the water dries.Quote:
Originally Posted by corsair
Dishwashing liquid works well.
good tips Corsair and Hoby. The clear paper can tear or stretch pretty easy when you are getting the right placement for them. I've applied that many that I don't even have to think what I'm doing.
The good thing with the laserjet decal paper is you don't need to do the sealing coat - but you certainly need to with the inkjet one!Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
Thanks for the explanation and tips guys. Shouldn't be that hard to do so I'm going for it.
Good advice Chuck.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuck
On my latest Tele I cut the decal slightly bigger than the headstock and trimmed it back after drying so that is was covering the whole headstock face therefore edge line of the transfer was not visible, as is the case on the other 4 builds where I trimmed to the edge of the logo.
Right. Forecast no rain and good weather.
I'm sprayin it !
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Yes, it does but the Microsol also softens the carrier film and allows the decal to sit lower on the piece.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hobastard
Good to know..... I defer to your wisdom.....
Well. I've been offline for a bit.
Here are a few shots of the decal I've put on the deluxe
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Put a coat of clear over them and it dried quite fast on this beautiful sunny day.
Now I'm going to get the tuners back on.
I'm so looking forward to playing it!!!!!!
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Well........ I mean setting it up. Which I suspect is going to be another big adventure.Quote:
Originally Posted by OliSam
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Love it. Great head stock logo on that. Look forward to hearing it!
Thanks dude. I've been dwelling on logos and names for months.Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankenWashie
My son picked the Phoenix logo and the name 865 (which is the engine capacity of my motorcycle)
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Great feeling when you reach this stage of a build, looks good too.
I like the decals, does it say Eight Sixty Five?
YepQuote:
Originally Posted by Andy40
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Ok.
(Put on voice of Donald Trump)
Some more photos
It is set up
It is a really great set up
A beautiful set up
It is a beautiful guitar
It sounds great - it is really great
You'll like it too
You'll want one too
It is the best guitar
Others have said it is great
It is great
Making guitars great again
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It really is tremendous. So many people have come to me and said, "This guitar, it's just tremendous". And who am I to say they are wrong? You know, the ones saying that Russia helped; fake news.
Straight to GotM!
nice looking build Oli, is the hardware stock other than the control knobs ?
Really???Quote:
Originally Posted by Fretworn
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Yes. Why not, even if you don't win you will get feedback and you never know how the judges will vote.Quote:
Originally Posted by OliSam
Hell yeah man! That thing is tight.
I have consulted with my head advisor then fired him. Then I consulted with the head of the FBI then fired him. Then consulted with my press advisor who gave me some "alternative facts" which I whole heartedly agree with. Then I fired her.
I believe it is my absolute right to share sensitive information and choose this secure forum to do so.
And after the expert guidance of pablopepper and fretworn I will submit to the GOTM.
(Don't Think I'm much competition though)
Here we go!!
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hi Wokka
machine heads are Adam upgrades - grover mini locking
pots are 500K audio taper from Jaycar
knobs from Jaycar (the holes in the scratchplate for the dials were too close together and the stock speedknobs [which i really like BTW) were too hard to manage)
trebble bleeds put together by me and got from Jaycar
orange drops from Adam
bridge is stock(which is the next to get upgraded i hope soon)
humbuckers from Artist
nut is bone from DingoT
i think that is it.
started 29 December and just finished.......
cheers Oli, wow there are quite a few upgrades. Don't worry how much time it took to build. Most often the slower builds are better as more care has been taken during the build (or lack of free time !)
It's best to let the paint and clear coats cure for longer
Ha[emoji23]Thanks mate. I think they're only really called upgrades if you don't use the original things! I managed to wreck a few sets of pots and things on the way through. That's why so much stuff is different from stock[emoji23][emoji23][emoji1]Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
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Very nice looking guitar. Hopefully it plays and sounds as good as it looks.
Hi Simon:Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
Sounds:
tone closed: really really muddy and muffled
tone around 3/4 open: beautiful warm and clear tones
tone wide open: kinda bright
the strings resonate for ages when i play a note and that is really exciting.
as i am used to playing single coils i am enjoying the different sounds from each pickup (i am really not an expert at tone and sounds so a "review" from me isnt worth much :)
Plays:
still tweaking the setup.
action: i think ive got it right. id say slightly lower than medium height, buzzing a little when i hit the strings a little hard. I have not got a fancy accurate measuring ruler so i cant really measure it and show you
bridge kinda vibrates a little and is a little irritating. I am sure I can play around with it to get it right. is there any kind of lube i can put on it all so it sits smooth and happy?
have you any thoughts on getting those little screws down neatly and the saddle straight??
phew!
Chris Cornell died and i am not having a good day today. i dont want to work. just sit at home by myself.
Without replacing the bridge (or at least the saddles), the only advice I can give on setting it up is to make sure that the top of each saddle is level and that both of each saddle's screws are touching the base plate. It only takes a small difference in saddle angle and screw height before one of those screws is up in the air and the saddle is only resting on one screw. If the other screw is only slightly above the bass plate, then it may well vibrate against it and buzz.
If you've got a lot of saddle screw poking up above the saddle, so that they dig into your hand, then you can either a) get a small hacksaw and cut a few mm of the bottom of the screws (I'd leave the hex hole end untouched), then use a file to smooth off the edges and add a bit of a point to them or b) look for shorter replacement screws from an eBay seller (though you'd have to guess at the screw size, though most Asian made saddles will have the same size and thread).
I tend to replace cheap alloy saddles on my (or friends) guitars with Graphtec ones as they do cut down on string friction a lot, and I find that their screws aren't overlong to begin with, so you don't get anything poking in your hand. The all-black ones are the cheapest, though you can get steel versions with just an insert of the slippery black material at twice the price. There are also good steel saddle replacements out there. But you need to measure the string spacing of the saddle to make sure you order the right size. Normally this will be the narrowest if two options are given, as most Asian and Mexican built guitars have a slightly narrower string spacing to US made guitars.
This is where getting a cheap digital vernier calliper pays dividends. I bought one for around A$20 from eBay and it is surprisingly accurate and I find myself using it a lot to check measurements.
True Simon. I use my digital calipers all the time now
Cool. Thanks Simon. I see one by Craftright for A$19.98.
It may be the go.
Checking out saddles also.
Still not ready for gotm as yet.
My house is a construction zone and everything is covered in dust.
I may be a while now
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Go into your local Total Tools store and pick up some vernier calipers. Less than $50- and probably 2-3 to choose from.
Chris
Hi SimonQuote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
spent the weekend tweaking the setup.
your right about the tops of saddles being absolutely level and screws touching. frustrating and fiddly but i got there as best as i could.
I also found that having the saddles not touching eachother helped a bit.
I also loosened the truss a little and got some more bow in the neck which assisted in lowering the saddles a little more.
There's a good action now (but it seems to show up my crappy job at levelling the frets :))
when i get a chance i'll take some nice shots outside and post on gotm.
Hooray for great builds!
Good news!
One month old and chipped already....... oh well. [emoji450]☠️
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Oh well.......
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A shame, but it happens.
So, time for the full relic treatment then!
haha Oli don't worry everyone chips a guitar at some stage, you were a bit earlier than usual