Attention Weirdy and other electronic gurus!!

Just check that the MM probes are plugged into the right sockets. There's normally two sockets for the red/positive probe, one for voltage and resistance, and another for current measurements. Normally only one for the black/common probe. It's easy enough to plug in to the wrong socket by mistake and get no readings.

If that's fine, you could always test the multimeter resistance across the two outer legs of a potentiometer. You know that's going to be close to the nominal pot value - 250k or 500k - and this value is not affected by being an audio or linear pot.

Is the HB a split coil if so what is the resistance of each coil, if not one of the coils may be OC.

I've had this before

Can you give us a photo of the multimeter or tell us what type it is? I'm just hoping that its not an Avo (or Aussie equivalent) resistance tester type designed for mains cables. If it is, some use a high voltage test signal, which can ruin more delicate circuits. Hopefully not, but it would explain the experience of getting initial resistance readings and then nothing.

Sounds like the calibration parameters were set too small as hinted at in Wokkas post cause if they are making noise there is definitely a current running through them.

Hey Zandit, did I throw in a 2nd 3 way switch when all the bits were posted down to you? If so maybe check it to see if it is working OK and not fried out by too much soldering iron heat.

I'm pretty sure the MM is auto ranging, It's a Milwaukee industrial unit, that only has two ports to put the leads into, so you can't stuff it up like Simon suggested.
I'm using the MM in two positions to double check everything I can.
Testing kOhms
http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/u...psod0yx8eb.jpg

And normal ohms...I think
http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/u...psbs3rsi4d.jpg
On this second setting, I was able to get my readings of 4800 or thereabouts on the Hot Stack. I also got 5700 on the single coil in the neck, but on either setting I was unable to get a reading on any of the humbuckers.

BTW Simon, I tested one of my 500k pots, and was only able to get a reading of around 500k when I was using the middle and right hand posts. I got nothing when touching the two outer points like you suggested.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by wazkelly

Hey Zandit, did I throw in a 2nd 3 way switch when all the bits were posted down to you? If so maybe check it to see if it is working OK and not fried out by too much soldering iron heat.

---

You only supplied one switch Waz, which was all we discussed. I picked up a new switch tonight from Jaycar for only $5, however I think I picked up the one and only On/Off/On switch that was in the wrong container!!
I'll be taking it back tomorrow for an exchange!

Hi mate, try this.....have your electrodes attached to the right bits and gradually rotate the big middle dial between the ohms symbol and the ones below to see what results, if any, that gives? Next would be to stick it back on ohms and start tapping the min/max button to see what that does followed by Hz and zero. Somewhere amongst these it should produce something unless of course it is auto ranging and has a mind of it's own.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Zandit75

You only supplied one switch Waz, which was all we discussed. I picked up a new switch tonight from Jaycar for only $5, however I think I picked up the one and only On/Off/On switch that was in the wrong container!!
I'll be taking it back tomorrow for an exchange!

---

Sorry about that, couldn't remember what was packed.

If it's the model of clamp meter I think it is, looking at the manual for it, http://documents.milwaukeetool.com/58-14-2221d4.pdf, then I can understand your issues.

The second picture shows the buzzer setting for continuity. That only measures up to 600 ohms. The resistance setting (the omega setting) only reads up to 6k ohms.

It simply isn't capable of reading some of the higher resistances on the coils, so can't differentiate between an open circuit and a >6k ohm resistance coil.

You need to get hold of a multimeter more suited for the task. You really need to buy a cheap one as you can't do much testing without one. You could have bought one from Jaycar whilst you were there!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by wazkelly

Hi mate, try this.....have your electrodes attached to the right bits and gradually rotate the big middle dial between the ohms symbol and the ones below to see what results, if any, that gives? Next would be to stick it back on ohms and start tapping the min/max button to see what that does followed by Hz and zero. Somewhere amongst these it should produce something unless of course it is auto ranging and has a mind of it's own.

---

I'm starting to think it has a mind of it's own. I tried every combination you suggested, and nothing.
Once I get the correct switch tomorrow, I'm just going to wire it up and see how it goes. Since I can get sound out of it, hopefully it will work as advertised!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Simon Barden

If it's the model of clamp meter I think it is, looking at the manual for it, http://documents.milwaukeetool.com/58-14-2221d4.pdf, then I can understand your issues.

The second picture shows the buzzer setting for continuity. That only measures up to 600 ohms. The resistance setting (the omega setting) only reads up to 6k ohms.

It simply isn't capable of reading some of the higher resistances on the coils, so can't differentiate between an open circuit and a >6k ohm resistance coil.

You need to get hold of a multimeter more suited for the task. You really need to buy a cheap one as you can't do much testing without one. You could have bought one from Jaycar whilst you were there!

---

Alright, I'll look at this on Thursday when I get paid. So can you tell me what range I need to cover?
Thanks again everyone for the assist!

Most humbuckers can read up to 15k so a range up to 20k is required to get a result.

I think I bought a cheapish MM from Jaycar a while back and it works OK. They have a few to pick from and most likely better quality than you would find in a Green shed and probably cheaper too.

Here is a link for their $10 one... https://www.jaycar.com.au/low-cost-d...r-dmm/p/QM1500

Looks like it is good enough for what you need.

EDIT: IF YOU SCROLL DOWN THE PAGE YOU WILL FIND A CLEARNCE ONE FOR $6.95 - ABSOLUTE BARGAIN!!!

Something like this should be fine; https://www.jaycar.com.au/economy-au...ensor/p/QM1529

It's auto-ranging, so you don't need to worry about selecting the correct range For what you need it for when working on guitars, it's fine.

If you do fancy spending a bit more money, then this https://www.jaycar.com.au/economy-tr...meter/p/QM1321 is an auto-ranging unit that has a few more features, like a capacitance tester, that you might find useful. But the first one will do you for now if you want to minimise your outlay.

Yep, the Low Cost DMM will be fine if you just want it for basic guitar work. If you're testing lots of components regularly then it's nice to have one that can also test capacitance etc.

If your tests showed that the coil pairs are actually green/white, red/black then when you re-wire the mini-toggle you'll need to swap the red and white wires on the switch from the diagram. That is, your white wire will bridge the two diagonal lugs and the red wire will go the single lug instead. That explains why you were only getting sound in the 'series' position and nothing in the other two at the start of all this.

EDIT: Before you wire up your new switch test it and compare to that type 1/2 diagram. If it is type 2 then wire it as I described above. If it's type 1 then we'll need to change the switch connections slightly.

Thanks again guys! Love this place!!

Build is officially on hold until I can get hold of a 3-way on/on/on switch. Jaycar don't seem to stock one locally, and unless I'm looking for the wrong thing, I can't find one on their website. I'll try the local music shop, but I'm not holding my breath on that one.
I can find plenty on Ebay, but they will be several weeks before they arrive.
Alternatively, I can look at a different wiring option to utilise the on/off/on switch I now have.
What's the general consensus?

On/off/on isn't great at all. Definitely get the right switch. There must be other suppliers of switches in Australia. Trouble is you're also running into the Christmas break, so it's probably going to be a bit slower.

Have you simply tried googling "mini DPDT on/on/on switch"?

Try RS Components Australia. RS is always a good source for decent electrical/electronic parts. Here's one, but you may find others on the site. http://au.rs-online.com/web/p/toggle-switches/7109876/

Thanks Simon. Considering I deal with that company through work fairly regularly you would have thought they'd be top of mind.
Thanks again.

Other alternatives: RealTone, ALS, GuitarAust

The boss let me order one on our account, and I'll fix him up for it once it arrives.
Ideally it will arrive tomorrow, but I doubt that will happen. I haven't received a shipping update of the item yet.

One of my mates had a problem with the switch in his LP Supreme and ordered a genuine replacement from Gibson which was intermittently faulty on installation.

Local music shop installed a no name one and it's been good ever since

Looks like my switch has been shipped. Hopefully it will arrive today at work before we knock off.

Looks like my switch has been shipped, and according to tracking is on board for delivery today. Hopefully it will arrive today at work before we knock off at lunch time, otherwise I have to stick around for it!

Switch has arrived, and we have just tested it.
I can confirm we have a type two switch!

Nice! As per my previous post, just swap the red and white pickup wires from how they're drawn on the switch in my diagram and you should be good to go. Shout if you need any help.

Thanks bud, appreciate all the help you and everyone else has provided!

Sorry to throw another spanner in the works Weirdy, but I had to get another 5-way switch. Oddly enough, these switches do not handle being driven over by the wifes car when left in the middle of the shed floor accidentally.
This morning I rang both music shops within 20mins of my place, and while both shops had them in stock, one wanted $10.95, the other wanted $30!!
So I grabbed the cheaper switch, and a new set of strings for a grand total of $23!
The issue I have now though is the design of the switch is different, and I'll need guidance on how to wire it up.
http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/u...psfd33i0xn.jpg

http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/u...psm9kcoey4.jpg

Thanks in advance.

If you can't look after your toys you'll just have to learn to do without...

Attachment 15975

So, from the above, when the lever is at the right side of the image it's bridge active, and when it's at the left it's neck active.

I get the idiot award for a couple of days!!
Thanks again mate, but where do the ground wires go? On the original diagram the two grounds from the neck and bridge pups went to a spot on the left of the switch, and another ground wire went from the volume pot to the right side of the switch.

This type of switch doesn't have specific ground lugs like your pancaked 'import' style PBG switch. Typically, the metal switch frame will be grounded by the cavity shielding.

As such, you will need to connect the bridge and neck pup grounds to either the back of a pot or just run a short wire from a pot ground point and link it to the pup grounds at the switch (then insulate the join so it can't short) etc. The latter means that you don't have to strip the pup wires back a ton so the grounds will reach, if you get what I mean.

Yep, understood. The latter option sounds good.
Thanks for all this bud.

DONE!! And I actually have sound on all switch positions!
My only issue at the moment is static/scratchyness when I rotate either the volume or tone knobs.
Is this an earthing issue?

No, the scratchiness is mostly down to the pots themselves.

Did you use the old ones or the newer Chinese generics that I sent with all the other stuff as from memory they had never been used and should have been OK?

They were the 500k's you sent me, and I thought they would be fine. The originals were also 500k's, but from memory they were corroded.

Hmmm, best to wait for an expert to drop by and offer some comments. Myself, I would probably use some Freon spray as that used to work for me in the past (but that was last century???).

Did you leave them out in the rain or give them to the dog to play with? I mean, after the driveway incident we need to check these things... ;)

Do you only get the static burst when turning them or does it continue once it's in a static making position? Both tone and volume or just one of the pots?

Could be heat damage from soldering. They may just need cleaning. A contact cleaner/lubricator something like this https://www.jaycar.com.au/contact-cl...y-can/p/NA1012. I use Servisol a lot (though it comes in different packaging in the UK).

Don't ever use WD40 for pots or contacts! It is designed as a water dispersant, not a cleaner, and leaves an oily residue which whilst initially making things better, attracts dust and quite quickly makes things a lot worse.

Good advice Simon.

Thanks for the quick ideas guys.
I deserve that weirdy! :p
The static/scratchyness is only present when I rotate either of the knobs. It stops as soon as I stop moving the knob.