Attention Weirdy and other electronic gurus!!

[Simon Barden]

Just check that the MM probes are plugged into the right sockets. There's normally two sockets for the red/positive probe, one for voltage and resistance, and another for current measurements. Normally only one for the black/common probe. It's easy enough to plug in to the wrong socket by mistake and get no readings.

If that's fine, you could always test the multimeter resistance across the two outer legs of a potentiometer. You know that's going to be close to the nominal pot value - 250k or 500k - and this value is not affected by being an audio or linear pot.

[dave.king1]

Is the HB a split coil if so what is the resistance of each coil, if not one of the coils may be OC.

I've had this before

[Simon Barden]

Can you give us a photo of the multimeter or tell us what type it is? I'm just hoping that its not an Avo (or Aussie equivalent) resistance tester type designed for mains cables. If it is, some use a high voltage test signal, which can ruin more delicate circuits. Hopefully not, but it would explain the experience of getting initial resistance readings and then nothing.

[wazkelly]

Sounds like the calibration parameters were set too small as hinted at in Wokkas post cause if they are making noise there is definitely a current running through them.

Hey Zandit, did I throw in a 2nd 3 way switch when all the bits were posted down to you? If so maybe check it to see if it is working OK and not fried out by too much soldering iron heat.

[Zandit75]

I'm pretty sure the MM is auto ranging, It's a Milwaukee industrial unit, that only has two ports to put the leads into, so you can't stuff it up like Simon suggested.
I'm using the MM in two positions to double check everything I can.
Testing kOhms


And normal ohms...I think

On this second setting, I was able to get my readings of 4800 or thereabouts on the Hot Stack. I also got 5700 on the single coil in the neck, but on either setting I was unable to get a reading on any of the humbuckers.

BTW Simon, I tested one of my 500k pots, and was only able to get a reading of around 500k when I was using the middle and right hand posts. I got nothing when touching the two outer points like you suggested.

[Zandit75]

Hey Zandit, did I throw in a 2nd 3 way switch when all the bits were posted down to you? If so maybe check it to see if it is working OK and not fried out by too much soldering iron heat.

You only supplied one switch Waz, which was all we discussed. I picked up a new switch tonight from Jaycar for only $5, however I think I picked up the one and only On/Off/On switch that was in the wrong container!!
I'll be taking it back tomorrow for an exchange!

[wazkelly]

Hi mate, try this.....have your electrodes attached to the right bits and gradually rotate the big middle dial between the ohms symbol and the ones below to see what results, if any, that gives? Next would be to stick it back on ohms and start tapping the min/max button to see what that does followed by Hz and zero. Somewhere amongst these it should produce something unless of course it is auto ranging and has a mind of it's own.

[wazkelly]

You only supplied one switch Waz, which was all we discussed. I picked up a new switch tonight from Jaycar for only $5, however I think I picked up the one and only On/Off/On switch that was in the wrong container!!
I'll be taking it back tomorrow for an exchange!

Sorry about that, couldn't remember what was packed.

[Simon Barden]

If it's the model of clamp meter I think it is, looking at the manual for it, http://documents.milwaukeetool.com/58-14-2221d4.pdf, then I can understand your issues.

The second picture shows the buzzer setting for continuity. That only measures up to 600 ohms. The resistance setting (the omega setting) only reads up to 6k ohms.

It simply isn't capable of reading some of the higher resistances on the coils, so can't differentiate between an open circuit and a >6k ohm resistance coil.

You need to get hold of a multimeter more suited for the task. You really need to buy a cheap one as you can't do much testing without one. You could have bought one from Jaycar whilst you were there!

[Zandit75]

Hi mate, try this.....have your electrodes attached to the right bits and gradually rotate the big middle dial between the ohms symbol and the ones below to see what results, if any, that gives? Next would be to stick it back on ohms and start tapping the min/max button to see what that does followed by Hz and zero. Somewhere amongst these it should produce something unless of course it is auto ranging and has a mind of it's own.

I'm starting to think it has a mind of it's own. I tried every combination you suggested, and nothing.
Once I get the correct switch tomorrow, I'm just going to wire it up and see how it goes. Since I can get sound out of it, hopefully it will work as advertised!