I really like that neck profile, and the transition to the head stock you have there. I guess from the asymmetrical neck heel that you are going to have a smooth shaped transition into the back of the body?
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I really like that neck profile, and the transition to the head stock you have there. I guess from the asymmetrical neck heel that you are going to have a smooth shaped transition into the back of the body?
Thanks FrankenWashie!Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankenWashie
I was inspired by the new Fender American Elite series:
http://www.fmicassets.com/demandware...e-5-mobile.jpg
But I am consider using neck screws and recessed ferrules because I may use black hardware and I can't find an asymmetrical neck plate that is black.
Ah! I see, I had thought you might reduce the profile of the body edge to taper off toward the neck heel.
excellent work Simon, really well documented build diary and you are an inspiration to other forumites to have a crack at a scratchy when they are confident enough.
Neck shaping and fretting looks really good. Keep saying this but you are a natural at this first scratchy, you have done your homework and some.
I couldn't find an asymmetrical black neck plate either and went for black neck bushes for one of my later scratchys
Yes that would be ideal so if I end up doing the ferrules I will certain have some form of taper.Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankenWashie
Thanks for the kind words wokka! I may end up spraying the neck plate black but I'm not sure how it will turn out.Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
no worries Simon, I thought about that option spraying the chrome plate black but thought eventually the paint will peel off, good for a relic look I spose haha
I found a video where Brad shows how he sprays such parts black. I may try this out: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vTDaLG-Fz1UQuote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
I couldn't resist...
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...pspmpwr5mu.jpg
Will post more photos on the process later on.
HOLY CARP Simon that veneer is off the chain, looks like you nailed the gluing process looks flat as a pancake - well done
There are some areas where there are tiny gaps. I think I didn't use enough glue because I didn't get squeeze out all over. Oh well, another thing learned!Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
That Zebrano is off the hook, can you imagine that polished up with a high gloss? it's going to look wicked.
Yes it is! I'm still deciding if I should do a mirror gloss or oil finish.Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankenWashie
Very very nice, makes me want to try a hard body veneer myselfQuote:
Originally Posted by SIMpleONe89
Bad-ass top!!
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Pabs! Please!:confused:
I'm just about to have dinner!
Lol thanks for the comments and let's see more pics of wood... (actual wood)
After the neck was done, I gave all my attention to the body. I had previously cut out the body with a jigsaw (painful work) and tried to remove as much wood as I could before routing.
I first attached the template to the rawly cut body.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...psmdipzu4o.png
Then routed it out in many passes, starting with a short inverted flush trim bit.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...psb5cba0i6.png
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...pshu1fhmav.png
As you can see I stuck some scrap wood to the base of the router to prevent any rocking, which will be absolutely devastating if that happens.
Then I switched to the longer bit.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...psrhv9flmg.png
If you try to take off too much wood, you may experience tear out, so do it in multiple passes and remove as much wood as the bit will allow you to.
Don't make the mistake I made - going too slow can burn the wood and this can be hard to get rid of. Trust me! Also make sure your bits are sharp. Lousy bits mean lousy results!
When my long bit could go no further, I flipped the body and used a flush trim bit with the bearing on the bottom.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...psfdrjgziz.png
Now I'll show you how I glued the top together without any fancy jigs.
First, you want to have a flat surface. This is very important. Also make sure the top isn't warped and is perfectly jointed.
Then you will need two blocks on either sides. Clamp one side first and leave the other free for now.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...pslpw9vtm3.png
Put a long piece of wood underneath in the middle so that both pieces are raised in the middle. Then clamp the free block tight against the pieces.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...psbdtvoqeg.png
Put a nice amount of glue on one side.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...psgijcsxhq.png
Then remove the block of wood underneath and press the pieces down. The blocks on both sides will cause the top pieces to press against each other, providing a nice glue joint. Wipe off any excess glue that squeezes out.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...ps3i7wcrzh.png
Then you will need to clamp the wood flat against the flat surface at both ends, and you can add some weights in the centre just to distribute the pressure evenly.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...psmymqbvjm.png
Leave everything clamped for a good amount of time (I always clamp for 24 hours).
Once the top was glued, I traced the outline and proceeded to cut it out with my jigsaw.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...psyx3bj1qr.png
The top cut like butter because it was only 7mm.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...psuminkj1f.png
Almost there...
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...ps4ikaazvm.png
I always stay clear of the line, at least 5mm away, because you don't know if the blade will wander underneath. You can always remove wood but not add wood back.
Then I made sure the surfaces were flat before gluing. I stuck 4 pieces of 60 grit sandpaper to large piece of mdf as a huge sanding block. Got to make do without expensive tools!
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...psqjvtudtl.png
Spam as much glues as you can! The glue gets soaked in real fast and if you don't work quickly it can solidify and you'll be in trouble. Looking back, I wish I had put more glue!
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...ps8pzksjhq.png
Because I don't have a huge number of clamps (only have 4 F clamps, 2 G clamps, 2 quick clamps and 1 spring clamp), and because clamp collection occurs throughout the years, I decided to use my bench vise as a huge clamp. I figured out that the middle section of the body will get the least amount of pressure so the bench vise will be useful too.
Looking back, I should've put some screws in the pickup/trem/neck pocket cavities to align the top and the body, because the glue acted as a lubricant and it was hard to position the top in the centre line. My centre line was just 1mm off, but it wasn't that bad because I had a perfect glue joint for the top so it was hard to spot the centre line.
And I didn't put enough glue so I wasn't able to get uniform squeeze out. This may also be due to lack of clamps.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...pscfqjtcfn.png
The body in this weird contraption.
I left it clamped and to dry for another 24hours and then proceeded to route the top flush with the body.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...psoehzidyx.png
Fortunately, I left enough excess wood because the bottom end of the top moved during the gluing process. I drilled holes around the excess wood later on to help with routing.
And the final result
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...pspmpwr5mu.jpg
Nice tutorial Simon and good work around.
excellent tutorial Simon, great results from the limited tools/machinery you have, glad you got the 3 plugger safety boots in one of the photos hahah
Looks fantastic! You'll need to wear some socks with the 3 plugger safety boots now the weathers cooling down a bit
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Haha yes socks with sandals! Now that's fashion!
Before I started routing the cavities, I drilled the neck screw holes. I drew a centre line on the neck plate and aligned it, positioned it and marked the holes out.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...psvwnn1c3p.png
Then drilled 4 clean holes.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...pshybxz78v.png
Next, I used my template to mark out the neck pocket, pickup and tremolo cavities.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...psvthbyuzg.png
And drilled out a bunch of relief holes.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...psluajldtt.png
For the neck pocket, I had to route to 14mm deep. I applied 3 layers of masking tape so that the neck will have a tight fit.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...pswzmrkanu.png
I later on put some shims underneath the template and routed with the longer bit because I couldn't get low enough with the shorter bit, and the longer bit was too long for it.
And I managed to get a perfect, tight fit.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...psph3f6wba.png
Fortunately the neck is also aligned with the centre line of the body.
Ideally, the neck pocket should be so tight that you can pick the guitar up by its neck without any screws. Success!
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...psw6adaisk.png
With a tight neck pocket, you supposedly get as much contact and hence more sustain and tone.
Then it was time for the pickups. I routed to 18mm deep but got 19mm in the end. Close enough!
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...pssuinjz8o.png
I'll be going for direct mount pickups so it doesn't hurt to get a little deeper. I can always shim it up with foam and springs.
As for the tremolo cavity, I routed as far as I could with the long 1/2" bit.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...psnhxhk9pj.png
Then flipped the body over to finish up with the flush trim bit.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...psc6cydvmd.png
Once the tremolo cavity is done, I follow a printed blueprint and measured out the spring cavity. I then used scrap MDFs with straight edges to form rectangles.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...psf9prf53o.png
This is a quick and easy way to create templates without having to make it.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...pskvddeixq.png
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...psnvokwx45.png
And this is what you will end up with.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...pskrvp8poa.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...pskm1hyrha.jpg
I couldn't help but do a quick mock build. I already ordered black hardware, which will look stunning once the guitar is finished.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...psx9qzhmku.jpg
brilliant!
Very nice!!
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Good work!
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well done Simon this is shaping up to be an excellent scratchy. So you just got to route the control cavity on the back and is the output jack going on the bottom side ?
Didn't see any pics of your 3 plugger safety boots ! Just in case Worksafe are watching hahah
So you planning a 5 way switch, 1 volume and 1 tone ?
Yup cavity will be behind. 5 way switch with a push pull for coil split and another for 7 way mod.
sounds interesting Simon the wiring plans you have. Have you got resident wiring guru Weirdy to help with a diagram ?
oh and you can still burn your feet with solder wearing 3 pluggers mate hahah
Yup I have wiring diagrams and I did it on my tele. With this mod you can get the neck and bridge in parallel, the desired tele tone.Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
Haha many things can go wrong in the garage but fortunately no accidents yet!
How did you hold down the mdf as routing guides? Double sided tape?
Yes, but I frequently use the masking tape with super glue trick. Put masking tape on both sides and run a bit of super glue on one side and press both together. The tape gets glued together, giving a strong bond.Quote:
Originally Posted by Muzza