From one Bad Monkey to the next :)
Attachment 3883
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From one Bad Monkey to the next :)
Attachment 3883
are those Bad Monkeys really $55? Got to get one!
this is true. as stan says, would be better for the factory to not bother drilling the headstocks if theyre not gonna do it properly-people are pulling some crazy mods out of the bag on these kits, so drilling some holes should not be beyond them (especially if theyre having to plug and re-drill them).Quote:
Originally Posted by bargeloobs
although i know it would suck for inventory stocking, but maybe itd be possible to get some of the more common kits available without any drilling in the headstockc,and the body where the neck screws on (for the F type kits) cos the holes on my tele were pretty wonky too.
Yup picked one up last night from JB HiFi.Quote:
Originally Posted by stan
Now I need to get the guitar finished to use it :)
wow thats got to be one of the cheapest FX pedals might have to buy one myself
here's the link to JB Hifi
https://www.jbhifi.com.au/musical-in...e-pedal/99719/
Bad Monkey has never left my board since I put it on there. Best $50 I ever spent. Absolute ts9 killer
Best tube screamer clone for the price. Great little overdrive.
cheers for the review Nicko and Pabs,
I'll definitely go and buy one for that price
Might have to rename this the Bad Monkey thread hahah
I'm off for a walk via JB now...
Where from?.....I've only been able to find 9.5mm and 12mm locally.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rabbitz
Fretty I thought 10mm dowels would be a standard size, you checked the Big Green Shed ?
Yep, 9.5mm & 12mm... unless they've hidden them somewhere. You can tell that place is owned by Coles, the shelves are stacked in the nonsense way that supermarkets use.Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
try a different green shed Fretty, a search on the website shows 2 types of 10mm wooden dowels
http://www.bunnings.com.au/search/pr...q=wood%20dowel
Ummm well these came from Mitre 10 (apparently). The brand is Prestige and they are nominally 10mm in diameter.
I just mic'ed a couple and they range from 9.85 to 10.05 mm.
I was assuming that it would be better to use non-fluted dowel. It that stuff is ok then I will be able to get them.
In my case it won't be visible so the ridges wont make a difference - they actually help bite in and also carry the glue in.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fretworn
So almost back to where I was last weekend.
Dowel is in place, a couple more coats of oil and the neck assembly can recommence. (phew). I just hope I drilled the new hole right :)
6°C in the shed right now, so I guess I'll wait a bit to start on the first top coat on the body. Might be a good day to drag the bench out into the sun, to try and speed it all up a bit.
This slowly slowy stuff just doesn't fit my instant gratification needs. :)
I've used fluted dowels on an LP headstock. No problem, but it is a painted one
Well the first final coat has gone onto the top.
It looks like it will take a few coats. The first coat was drawn straight into the timber of the veneer, like a sponge. I am not too disappointed to see that as it means the oils and waxes are being held by the cells.
I've just got to maintain the patience to wait until next weekend to put the next coat on :)
Dingo Tone First Top Coat:
Attachment 3949
First Oil Coat on back and sides:
Attachment 3950
looking superb Rabbitz, have you paintshopped the guitar pics ?
Just to cut out the embarrassing mess the workshop is in :)
Just put the second coat of oil in the body.
Such a nice satin finish is beckoning. Can't get a decent image without breaking out the photolights.
Looking good!
Well the back of the body has 5 or 6 coats of oil now and it is just about where I want it.
The top is more problematic.
Due to the weather I've waited a week to put a second final coat on. It just simply disappeared again.
A lot of colour ended up on the application cloth, I am surprised at this as this is the second coat. I reckon there is one and a bit more coats left in the bottle and I don't see it getting the satin/semi-gloss I was looking for.
Oh well, next weekend I'll do another coat and see. After I run out of finish I'll then try and work out what to do next. Has anyone ever put Tru-Oil over the top of Dingotone?
The neck is assembled, the frets levelled and polished.
I am pretty much stuck waiting to get the body finished - bloody weather is slowing things down.
Great recovery Rabbitz
Time for an update and a dangerous question.
The Update
Well the back of the body is done - it is hard to get a good image of the satin finish on the mahogany.
Attachment 4202
So onto the top. One coat of Dingotone colour, two intensifier and three coats of finishing coat. The result is "patchy".
Attachment 4203
Now I have lit this image to highlight the issue, so it isn't really as bad as it looks, BUT, it isn't the finish I want. (This is definitely not a complaint about Dingotone, the finish just isn't what I want.)
The Dangerous Question
So onto the question.
I want a satin finish, a bit like the back.
The obvious thing to do is to use the same finish as the back.
At the risk of permanent banishment to the Dog Box in the Men's Room of the Naughty Room can I lay a couple of coats of Naughty Oil over the Dingotone finish coat?
There, I said it, and now I stand to await my punishment.
sure can Rabbitz.
Looking good mate
Rab,
Have you thought about wipe-on poly. Minwax make both a satin and gloss wipe on poly...you can get them at that Green Shed alternative that sounds like Misters. :) I have used the oil based ones (in metal containers) with no hassle over both naughty oil and DT. They also do a water based version in plastic bottles....don't know how that would go over natural oils and waxes of DT.
I have a bass that I have got a 2nd set of DT to try a different finish style after the first didn't set to my needs. The body now has one stain coat, and one intensifying coat, 3 x naughty oil (2 heavy soak coats wiped off, and 1 thin rubbed coat.) Now it will hang for 7 days to 3 weeks....depending on weather and then get at least 3 coats of gloss wipe on poly.
DT brings out the grain in the wood really well. The naughty oil seals that in.....I was worried what the poly would do to the DT if applied direct. Between each coat a hugely fine scratch with 0000 steel wool. I await the end result. :)
Hi Ozz,
I hadn't considered Wipe On Poly.
Hmmm I might make a trip to my local paint and finish joint and have a peruse of the shelves.
Thanks
Rabz
Small update.
Copper tape in the control cavities - not doing the pick up cavities as:
a) running out of tape
b) They're humbuckers so don't need to
c) This will never be used on stage or in the studio
:)
Started applying TO over the DT finish. Lots of DT being picked up on the rubbing cloth - even on the third TO coat.
Another couple of coats today and then a reassess.
Sounds good Rabz! If your running out of tape, I suggest going down to Bunnings and grabbing a role of the slug and snail barrier repellant, it's a copper tape, same stuff, always good to do your pickup cavities just incase, hums and buzzes and can be annoying even if it's not on stage or studio! Can't really help you much with about the DT coming off, I've never used the stuff myself.
I had a look at the hardware store that shouldn't be mentioned this morning (had to pick up some light fittings on a Sunday) and they didn't have any copper tape.
Don't see it being a huge deal as the humbuckers are enclosed and earthed.
One really has to be sensible about these things. The copper shield may help but it also is not a perfect Faraday shield as it is not a perfecr enclose and the overlaid sections have adhesive between the sheets which is effectively a dielectric - this means the shields can be slightly capacitive. Which can, in turn, affect the shielding effect as it could cause a potential difference in different areas of the shield and the ground potential. This is especially true if it is RF that is the cause of the hum.
I am not real worried and will address any hum that occurs as and when I need to.
The hum may well help cover my woeful playing :)
Hey Rabbitz, some people don't worry about shielding pup cavities. As long as the control and switch cavities are shielded should be fine
FINALLY!!!!!!
The body coats are where I want them.
Attachment 4502
and
Attachment 4503
I've fluffed around with the neck and body finishes for so long I have forgotten everything I have read about putting a guitar kit together!
So what's next?
Bridge earth wire and bridge mounts I guess.
A question though - is it easier to mount the body hardware and get the wiring done before fitting the neck? I guess it doesn't make a difference other than it all being a little less unwieldy without the neck.
(Obviously the bridge hardware needs to be in place to square the neck)
Mmmmmmmmmmmm looks sweet there Rabz, very AFD!
'cept no burgundy back...
:)
Looking good man! Digging it big time!
That top is looking amazing! She's going to be sweet all assembled!
cheers,
Gav.
that is nice, I am now sold on the golden yellow look