That's looking a bit better.
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That's looking a bit better.
looking awseome Barge, are you going to drill a fourth neck screw hole ?
This will be a very cool build and would get the Max seal of approval for sure !
Yep, will be drilling another hole, obviously I'll have to make up a custom neckplate now so I'll worry about the 4th hole once I've jimmied that up.Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
Hopefully Max would approve, he's a pretty inspiring dude when it comes to thinking outside the box.
Looks nice man. Great lines.
Did you think any more about the upper carve and the veneer?
Cheers man.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nickosaurus
Because I haven't got a router table and am unable to rout downhill on the elbow cut, I'm gonna have to try and cut that particular section by hand using a blade.
There's every chance of catastrophic failure but I have no other option.
And that was a fruitful day of sanding. She's all taken back to 400 and looking nice
Now waiting on maple veneers now so I can make the top all pretty.
Looks amazing Bargey! Great lines...
cheers,
Gav.
pointy goodness, looks cool!
I thought you must have had/been getting a left handed version of thisQuote:
Originally Posted by bargeloobs
http://www.allparts.com/AP-0602-010-...te_p_4393.html
Thanks guys:-) @Gav,StanQuote:
Originally Posted by Fretworn
Yeah that's what I need Fretty, something along those lines. Unfortunately I didn't have any sort of contingency before I hacked that bit off the body so not sure what's happening yet, I'll probably just chop down the stock one. There's a fair bit of ad lib going on with this build:-)
body is looking schmick Barge, lets hope that flame maple arrives soon. are you going to resort to pitching the tent near the mailbox again ? You must be getting close to page 10 bro !
Page 10, yep here we are Wokks. I don't think I'll worry about the tent for those veneers, now that the kit's here I've got enough out of my system that I can relax a bit now.
Anyway my 6 new clamps arrived today and I've got a sneaky suspicion the veneers might turn up tomorrow, here's hoping.
Shot a couple of coats of clear on the headstock today, went with an enamel rather than nitro as I'd first planned, it looks good.
headstock looking good Barge. Not using nitro may get you 1 week less in the naughty room !
Lets hope the veneer rolls up Tuesday
Thanks Wokks.Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
Having never been a fan of Strats I love seeing someone hack the body up! Sweet looking too Barge
Haha cheers Rob. I love the sound you get out of a Strat, there's really nothing else quite like it, but the shape....meh, its a bit (dare I say it)....boring.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob L
super cool twist on the strat base. after seeing how good your last tele was, i cant wait to see how this turns out
Hey cheers Ben, she should be "unique" if nothing else.Quote:
Originally Posted by BenWA
Veneers turned up today as predicted, they weren't lying when they said they were thin. There's gonna be zero room for error with these things. Anyone out there got any tips for getting a nice clean butt down the center join?
nice one Barge, veneer looks great. How much width you got to play with ?
I'd probably clamp the veneer down to a nice flat surface with a straight edge and cut a straight edge with a sharp blade. You got to be super careful when you clamp the veneer down it doesn't crack it. Good luck ! Hopefully you got a few mm excess. Mark up the cut lines before and make sure you can bookmatch them.
EDIT: Before you do all this I'd cut the lengths you require. Less chance of the veneer cracking/snapping while you do all this. Press firmly down with a sharp blade. I do this on my mdf bench top so not worried about the cut marks
Haven't checked the width against the body yet Wokks, I'll go and have a measure up after lunch, hopefully there's a bit to play with.Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
What's that about the book matching mate, I'm not quite with ya?
yeah ok cool Barge just hope you have about 4-5mm play each piece and you should get a nice straight line on the join.
Bookmatching is just lining up the flames the best you can. The veneer should be cut from the same piece of maple so you should be able to get a mirror image down the centre line and try and line up the flames
Ahh yep, roger that man!
I'd have a practice cut with a straight edge/ruler when you cut the veneer to the body length. If the blade is sharp you should get a clean cut 1st pass. Just make another pass with the blade if it didn't cut all the way through. Treat this veneer as super easy to crack and it will look after you. I've ruined quite a few headstock veneers the thin ones crack so easy.
You got enough for 2 bodies by the looks
here's another method of jointing the veneers Barge, the piece of wood with sandpaper will need to be straight, could be safer and more accurate way than a blade
Only goes for 5.5 mins
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3rrMtYHTAIs
If you're going to use a blade I'd use the thinnest one you can for the centre join edge, ideally something like a razor blade or a scalpel that's flat on one side. If the blade is thicker and has a typical tapered edge it could create a slight 'v' around your cut making it harder to get a clean smooth join. Cutting from the 'back' of your veneer may help too.
(my experience is limited to cutting headstock veneers, so take that into account)
Hey cheers for tips @Wokka,Weirdy, I followed your suggestions and managed to get a really clean join between the two halves and they book match up nicely.
I've decided to do one half at a time, reason being I want to be able to eyeball the joint on the second half to make sure it's butted up perfectly, and eliminate (or at least reduce ) any movement when putting the clamps on.
No looking back now...
How exciting!
Exciting indeed! Can't wait to see how it comes out.
One flame maple cap...done.
Had one chip out when cleaning out the cavities up the tremolo end, (of course it had to be one of the only spots not hidden by the pickguard), other than that it went fairly well, I'm happy.
My biggest concern now is getting tear outs on the cap when routing the binding channel, if I can get past that stage with no dramas we should be home and hose (famous last words).
That is looking very tasty, really nice job Barge.
Cheers man, not bad for a first attempt anyway:PQuote:
Originally Posted by WeirdBits
Well done Barge. Looks awesome. It's a tough job so you did well to only have a minor tear out. Can't wait to see it with a stain coat. Binding first
Thanks Wokks. Unfortunately I'd class that tear out as somewhat more than just minor. I had planned on filling with super glue and sanding back but if anyone has any better solutions I'm all ears. I doesn't look too bad now but I'm afraid once the stain goes down it's gonna highlight it like a sore thumb unless I can get something in there to fill the cracks.Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
That part will be mostly covered by the bridge and the pickguard, maybe a daub of timber mate. Superglue will inhibit stain more than glue.
Yeah that thought had crossed my mind about the super glue not taking the stain, I just thought the crack would be fine enough that it wouldn't be too noticeable. Unfortunately haven't got any Timbermate (nor the beans to buy any).Quote:
Originally Posted by pablopepper
I was just out in the shed staring at the concept pic hanging on the wall and as you've rightly pointed out, it's going to be pretty much completely obscured by bridge and pickguard anyway.
I think I'll just leave it as is.
Barge, firstly apologies for not getting on this thread earlier! You are doing great things here, have redefined the Strat shape for the better and going well on the cap. For the tear I tend to agree with pablo on the super glue not taking up the stain. Can the super glue be stained? Maybe have an experiment on some scrap. On my recent broken screw fix I stained some sawdust and titebond to make filler but super glue is a different beast altogether...
This maybe possible with superglue...
http://www.stewmac.com/How-To/Online...king_soda.html
I appreciate the comments man.Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewdosborne
To answer you question "Can the super glue be stained?", in short yes, but the results are negligible.
If it was a bigger chip out I'd entertain the sawdust/Titebond idea, but being that it's really only a hairline crack I don't think this method would be ideal.
I probably flag the super glue idea and just stain over and see what happens.
Here's the results of my little experiment using 2 coats of Dingotone (Nullabor Ochre), Super Glue is Stew Mac brand, medium(20).
Baking soda!! Who would of thunk. I might have to bear this one in mind post binding channel, depending on how badly I screw it up.Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewdosborne
Massive shout out to Pablopepper, the postie just showed up with these. Bloody legend mate!!
Anyone wanna have a guess what they're for?