yeah ok cool Barge just hope you have about 4-5mm play each piece and you should get a nice straight line on the join.
Bookmatching is just lining up the flames the best you can. The veneer should be cut from the same piece of maple so you should be able to get a mirror image down the centre line and try and line up the flames
Current Builds and status
scratch end grain pine tele - first clear coat on !
JBA-4 - assembled - final tweaks
Telemonster double scale tele - finish tobacco burst on body and sand neck
Completed builds
scratch oak.rose gum Jazzmaster - assembled needs setup
MK-2 Mosrite - assembled - play in
Ash tele with Baritone neck - neck pup wiring tweaks and play in
Ahh yep, roger that man!
I'd have a practice cut with a straight edge/ruler when you cut the veneer to the body length. If the blade is sharp you should get a clean cut 1st pass. Just make another pass with the blade if it didn't cut all the way through. Treat this veneer as super easy to crack and it will look after you. I've ruined quite a few headstock veneers the thin ones crack so easy.
You got enough for 2 bodies by the looks
Current Builds and status
scratch end grain pine tele - first clear coat on !
JBA-4 - assembled - final tweaks
Telemonster double scale tele - finish tobacco burst on body and sand neck
Completed builds
scratch oak.rose gum Jazzmaster - assembled needs setup
MK-2 Mosrite - assembled - play in
Ash tele with Baritone neck - neck pup wiring tweaks and play in
here's another method of jointing the veneers Barge, the piece of wood with sandpaper will need to be straight, could be safer and more accurate way than a blade
Only goes for 5.5 mins
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3rrMtYHTAIs
Current Builds and status
scratch end grain pine tele - first clear coat on !
JBA-4 - assembled - final tweaks
Telemonster double scale tele - finish tobacco burst on body and sand neck
Completed builds
scratch oak.rose gum Jazzmaster - assembled needs setup
MK-2 Mosrite - assembled - play in
Ash tele with Baritone neck - neck pup wiring tweaks and play in
If you're going to use a blade I'd use the thinnest one you can for the centre join edge, ideally something like a razor blade or a scalpel that's flat on one side. If the blade is thicker and has a typical tapered edge it could create a slight 'v' around your cut making it harder to get a clean smooth join. Cutting from the 'back' of your veneer may help too.
(my experience is limited to cutting headstock veneers, so take that into account)
Scott.
Hey cheers for tips @Wokka,Weirdy, I followed your suggestions and managed to get a really clean join between the two halves and they book match up nicely.
I've decided to do one half at a time, reason being I want to be able to eyeball the joint on the second half to make sure it's butted up perfectly, and eliminate (or at least reduce ) any movement when putting the clamps on.
No looking back now...
How exciting!
Exciting indeed! Can't wait to see how it comes out.
'As long as there's, you know, sex and drugs, I can do without the rock and roll.'
One flame maple cap...done.
Had one chip out when cleaning out the cavities up the tremolo end, (of course it had to be one of the only spots not hidden by the pickguard), other than that it went fairly well, I'm happy.
My biggest concern now is getting tear outs on the cap when routing the binding channel, if I can get past that stage with no dramas we should be home and hose (famous last words).
That is looking very tasty, really nice job Barge.
Scott.
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