:DQuote:
Originally Posted by FrankenWashie
Don’t worry, FW. You will see photos of it in all its glory..with the fancy schamncy engraved metal bits!
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:DQuote:
Originally Posted by FrankenWashie
Don’t worry, FW. You will see photos of it in all its glory..with the fancy schamncy engraved metal bits!
This morning, I sanded the body again, after the grain filler had around 18 hours drying. I went 240 grit with random orbital sander, then 400 grit by hand. Nice and smooth.
Masked off the cavities and pocket and used some old lip balm to put into string through holes and screw holes. To keep I
Unwanted sanding sealer out. I wiped the surface a couple of times with wax and grease remover, to get excess off and to get finger marks off too.
Attachment 39535
I then set up the spray booth.
Attachment 39536
First coat done. Will rub down with 240 grit and reapply sanding sealer. Give that a couple of hours to dry and will sand again to 400 grit.
This evening should be first base coat/primer spray.
After this, I might keep my spray booth as a cubby house, so I can hide from housework.
Patience and preparation prevents piss poor performance.
Wait....that’s 6!
Well, 2 coats of sanding sealer this morning and rubbed it all back to 400 grit....not a solid sanding, just a scuff sand to give the primer something to grab onto. I waited 2 hours for the final coat to dry, although the instructions said, it can be sanded after 30 minutes.
I have been shaking the can on and off several times today, so it should be fairly well shaken and mixed.
I stood the can in a bath of warm water to keep it less viscous to spray.
This is the first coat.
Attachment 39542
Attachment 39543
On the second coat, there was a bit of a run, so I tried to wipe it off and both coats came off. The instructions said it was ok to re coat after 15 minutes, but it is not hot today and kind of humid, so I might give the third coat 30 minutes. The second coat managed to fix the run issue but I need to be more careful with the spray job.
You got it fixed, so that's all that matters, but for future reference, trying to wipe off a run whilst it's wet will result in exactly what you experienced.
The best way to fix it, is to let it dry, then scrape it level with a razor blade, followed by strip-sanding (strip-sanding is a technique, not sanding back until stripped). Happy to explain in further detail if you ever need it.
Can't wait to see the chameleon paint!
Hi McCreed
On the third coat, there was some spatter. Lesson learned there is to take the cap off and soak it in meth between sprays, I think. Nothing serious but I will just sand those spatters, lightly until they are level. Since they were third coat, shouldn’t leave a hole in the base coat.
As I look at the body drying, it looks kind of cool with the matte black colour!
Will leave it until Sunday to spray the color change paint. That will give it ample time to dry. The base coat had three coats in the can with some left over, so I’m thinking one can of the color change will give me at least 3 coats, which, from what I have seen on YouTube, should be plenty to get a good color shift happening.
Thinking about that other body....when I fill the holes, I might try a broadcast yellow lacquer straight over the grain filler and sealing sander.
This one...looks pretty old school!
http://www.sydneyguitarsetups.com/ni...stralia-guitar
Ah..razor blade on the splatters...gotchaQuote:
Originally Posted by McCreed
Actually, no.Quote:
Ah..razor blade on the splatters...gotcha
I was referring to drips or runs that are more linear in formation with a defined high spot at the end (clear as mud, right??? I never tried to describe a run before!). For spatter, you have the right idea. Level with a sanding block on the flat areas.
This morning, I sanded back spatter marks and got it nice and smooth. It took some of the paint off the edges, back to bare wood. I guess, the primer isn’t supposed to be that durable, just the right colour and porous enough for the paint to stick to.
I notice that there is still some very faint grain marks in the paint work. Maybe 3 coats of grain filler and 2 coats of sanding sealer wasn’t quite enough....maybe 4 grain filler and 3 sanding sealer...although, to be fair the sanding sealer did go on lightly.
Still, I have now used all of the primer can. Got 4 coats out of it, so probably the one can of colour change paint will be enough.
I’m torn between trying to get the paint on today...giving about 5 hours for the primer to dry or maybe put it off until next weekend and let all of the solvent in the primer properly evaporate. There isn’t any rush, so probably next week will be good.
I have noticed that somewhere along the line, either I didn’t put enough grain filler in or sanding sealer over the grain filler.
There are faint but discernible grain lines in the primer.
Attachment 39605
Not sure if it comes out in the photo.
I think my options are:
1. Leave it and hope the paint fills in evenly;
2. Spray over the primer with more sanding sealer to make sure it is covered (with some scuffing with 400 grit or so to ensure the topcoat bonds; or
3. Sanding back to bare wood again and doing more grain filler and sanding sealer, then reapplying primer.
I’m tempted to try 2, since the sanding sealer is clear, it shouldn’t interfere with the primer and topcoat but maybe 3 is the better option.
Perhaps 1 would work and if it doesn’t, I could think about doing option 3 if I really don’t like it.
Probably I think, I will do option 1 and make a decision then.
Anybody has advice or experience, I would love to hear.
Oh...and these guys turned up today...
Attachment 39610
Attachment 39611
I think there is also an option 4, which is what I will try. That is, sand the undercoat back lightly, then wet the surface with wax and grease remover to see if the grain shows up so much when it is wet.
Then make a decision
Oh nice... I'm trying to choose tele pickups too. Which set did you go for?Quote:
Originally Posted by Eponymous
I got the Lindy Fralin blues specials. They are hand wound and the design (turns, magnets and materials) are based on the original tele pickups, but they are overwound 5% to give a richer, lusher tone.
https://www.fralinpickups.com/produc...al-telecaster/
I also have the 4 way switching option, so I can have single pickups, plus the normal parallel combined pickup but also a 4th position which shunts the output of the neck pickup into the input of the bridge pickup doubling the resistance and producing (apparently) a really lush, rich tone.
https://youtu.be/1uHPWFyYreE
I have also seen a set based on a copy of a 1952 tele pickup set, also done (in part) by Lindy Fralin in conjunction with analogman (of king of tone fame)
https://www.buyanalogman.com/category_s/628.htm
These also look pretty awesome.
Nice! Yeah I'm thinking of going for the 4 way option too - Baja wiring is it called - this is for my next build that I already have the body and neck for. The Fralin's sound like they're going to sound great :D
I was also reading about 5 way super switch wiring. P1 is neck+bridge in series (same as your P4 I think?). 2, 3 and 4 are the standard tele options. P5 is the bridge plus a little of neck blended in which is supposed to thicken up the bridge twang...
I just saw that! I will have 5 way switch envy forever, now.Quote:
Originally Posted by Groovyman32
On the other hand, I do have a top loader tele to build.....
:rolleyes:
If you are only just seeing it now, My guess would have to be that it's a result of the grain filler shrinking. Is it all over, or just in the area of the photo?Quote:
I have noticed that somewhere along the line, either I didn’t put enough grain filler in or sanding sealer over the grain filler.
There are faint but discernible grain lines in the primer.
I'd be dubious of Option 2. My concern is there is a risk of incompatibility.*
Edit to add:
*Behlen (Mohawk) have a broad range of aerosol sanding sealers, and looking at the MSDS, they all seem to have significant amounts acetone, MEK etc. I don't know which sealer you used or what your primer was either.
As much as I hate to say it, Option 3 (sand back completely and re-do) may the the safest route.
I'll be interested to see what direction you go and what results follow. I have no experience with Aquacoat, but its use seems to be increasing here, so am hoping get educated by proxy!
I did use a Mohawk sanding sealer...aerosol. I spoke to a friend of mine who is a professional painter and he said to sand it back a little, then wet the surface and see if the marks show up. The sanding may get rid of the marks. If that doesn’t work, then he suggested going back to bare wood and starting again.Quote:
Originally Posted by McCreed
That is this weekend’s project. See if I can resurrect it (or, to be honest....live with the faint grain marks and hope the topcoat and sanding does the job)
Oh...yes, it is all over the guitar body. It is quite faint and I may just live with it...maybe.
It's good to have professional friends! (one in each 'profession' is really good!)Quote:
I spoke to a friend of mine who is a professional painter and he said to sand it back a little, then wet the surface and see if the marks show up.
By "wet the surface" did he mean with a coat of primer or just metho or something similar?
I bought a set of these for Experiment #8. I'm looking forward to getting to the pointy, soldery plug it in and hear her ROAR end of things. Possibly a bit far afield for your needs GMan, but I've had nothing but good reports on Mr Glynn's.Quote:
Originally Posted by Groovyman32
I’m going to use a grease and wax remover, which I would have used to clean the guitar down before I sprayed the topcoat. It won’t affect the paint and evaporates quickly and doesn’t leave a residue behindQuote:
Originally Posted by McCreed
Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankenWashie
Do you mean the Lindy Fralin’s or the analogman, FW?
Sorry mate, the 'These' in my post was a link to the Mr Glynn's pickups page for his hot tele set, called 'Cruel Mistress'. full link belowQuote:
Originally Posted by Eponymous
“Cruel Mistress” -hot Tele set - Mr Glyn's Pickups
Whoops...didn’t notice it was a link, FW. They do look very, very nice and sound awesome. I would be really interested in your views. What are experiments 1-7 fitted with and, of those, which ones do you rate?Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankenWashie
They sound great!Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankenWashie
Experiment #1: The Actual FrankenWashie, Washburn MG42 neck, lab built Ibanez soloist style body - Entwistle X3 HBsQuote:
Originally Posted by Eponymous
- good crisp response, break up very nicely and get dirty if pushed. Good tone in both modes. Great value for money.
Experiment #2: FrankenWashie’s monster, 28.5” baritone neck through - Lace Dissonant Aggressors
- DEVASTATION in a pickup. They are monstrous in output and push great tone.
Experiment #3: scarf neck experiment, never saw a guitar.
Experiment #4: scratch built PRS chambered body, blackbutt cap. Laminated NZ beech scarf joint neck 25.5”Not yet complete.
Experiment #5: Strat style neck, with ironwood fretboard, currently awaiting completion with the Torched start body. This one is going to get some custom wound S/C in a 1/4 pounder style.
Experiment #6: Ibanez JS 140 eBay buy, fitted Seymour Duncan Black Winter pickups.
Absolutely Ball Tearing metal pickups, crisp clean tones, Overdrive it or push signal through a distortion pedal, and the demons come out. Not for the faint of heart. You may find yourself spontaneously acquiring dark velvet overcoat, studded choker, and emigrating to the wilds of Norway or Sweden to film yourself shredding in a Snow blown forest.
Experiment #7: Fishman style piezo setup, destined for ES-V bargain basement arch top. Not yet fitted because I have a couple of small things to get finished first.....like building the bridge, making the scratch plate, drilling the headstock. Should also probably put the back plate back on it....after I’ve carved it.
That is quite the portfolio, FW.Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankenWashie
Respect
Cheers mate, there's a couple of builds taken place in between or along side the experiments. Like maybe 8 or 9 or so?Quote:
Originally Posted by Eponymous
I decided to live with the grain and do the topcoat today. Those of you who have been playing along at home will remember I am doing a colourchange paint, a’ la silver sky nebula.
He we are before the start
Attachment 39662
Just a black primer.
After the first coat.
Attachment 39663
Not much colour, to be honest.
Due to the limit on photos per post...I will cut to the chase
Attachment 39664
Attachment 39665
And a few more
Attachment 39666
Attachment 39667
Well. The colour change works. Not sure whether to get another can and do a few more coats.
Not exactly how I envisaged it but still a pretty good result.
Wowsers - that is an awesome result! Great work. Love it [emoji3590]
John Mayer is on the phone - he wants his guitar back.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Very cool! Nice effect.
If you're happy with the coverage you have now, and there's no runs, spatter or anything that needs fixing, I'd just start your clear coat.Quote:
Not sure whether to get another can and do a few more coats.
That's very on the rad side, Eponymous.
When I zoomed in and saw a couple of the areas that you're probably thinking need more work, I was thinking "woah, that looks like some sort of retro synthwave relic". Do with that what you will...
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Thanks for the feedback, everyone. It was looking pretty good, when it dried but I had decided to do another can’s worth of paint over the top to try and get a deeper, richer colour. Delay in updates is because the paint takes a while to get here. It duly arrived during the week and this morning was putting much heavier (medium to wet coats, as the instructions say) on.
The end result looks like this.
Attachment 39853
Attachment 39854
Attachment 39855
Attachment 39856
Quote:
Originally Posted by McCreed
I did respray and had a minor hiccup near the input jack hole. I think it will be easily fixable. As my son reminded me last weekend...don’t let the perfect be the enemy of the good.
Clear coat in a week or so when this has had a chance to completely outgas and cure/dry.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Groovyman32
It’ll cost him!!!!
Thanks, groovyman!
And because every guitar deserves some bling.....
Attachment 39861
While I haven’t put anything up for a while, I have been doing things. I had been waiting for some things to come in..namely, my topcoat and some retarder and the spray gun kit I ordered. The spray kit is apparently in Australia but tracking doesn’t seem to be working properly, so I’m hoping it will turn up next week.
In the meantime, I have worked on the neck, fitting my bling, which is epoxied at the front and screwed in from the back. It won’t be going anywhere. I’ve also installed the tuners. I haven’t set the heights properly yet (they are variable height) to get my break angle over the neck properly done.
The neck is looking like this.
Attachment 40060
And the tuners specifically like this
Attachment 40061
In the meantime, I had another can of the colourshift paint, so I decided to give it another coat to do a richer finish.
It now looks like this.
Attachment 40062
Except for the tiny detail that, it dropped onto the floor (and some pedals stored on the floor, conveniently directly under the drying guitar).
The result was this.
Attachment 40063
Soo.....damn.
I have more of the base coat and will order another can of the colourshift. That will take 10 days or so to get here, so...when the body is properly dry, I will sand back the affected areas and reapply the black base coat....then spray and spray again to go back to what it should look like.
I’m pretty happy with the colour now though, so I have something to aim for.
Still upside down photos. I keep rotating and rotating them in edit mode and they still come out upside down! Wtf is going wrong.
Anyway, I guess that is the least of my problems today.
I guess it is another chance to get things right.....
Bummer about the dropped guitar! Ouch!
Oh man, just when things were going well .... that's usualy the way. Until you have that clear on and cured you have to be so so careful, because base coat is fragile. Once the clear is on the colour shift effect and pearl/metallic will realy pop. Pics of bare base never do the finished effect justice. It's gunna look killer when it's done!:cool:
Look on the bright side, when House of Kolor first introduced colour shift paint (they called it kamelion kolor), it was a grand a litre!