Cheers for the "tip" :)
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Cheers for the "tip" :)
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You should be able to get replacement/alternative tips for it. The tip should be held on by the knurled ring just below it. A larger tip would make it easier to do pots. So it might be worth contacting Jaycar to see if they offer any. Otherwise you could try removing the tip, measuring the size of the tip that fits into the iron and seeing if you can find suitable alternatives on eBay or Amazon (often a package of mixed tip sizes).
Obviously you need to wait until the iron cools down before changing tips, so sometime it pays to have another cheap large tip iron on the go as well as your current one, for doing the heavier duty soldering applications like pot backs and trem claw ground wires etc.
I concur with Trev that that unit has plenty of juice, and whilst you can sufficiently heat up a pot casing with the conical tip (needle) a chisel tip will do it nearly instantly.Quote:
Hi Dozy,
that iron should be fine. The needle tip can work well for soldering to the back of the pots, just make sure you place the edge of the tip (a large area) flat to the back of the pot.
I have the next model up (also Jaycar) and they do make a replacement chisel for it, but it's only 2.5mm wide. Whilst it does work better than the conical, wider is better but unfortunately they don't stock anything wider.
Soooooo... I make my own 4mm chisel tip by filing a conical one. Takes less than 3 minutes with a file. The tips are made of a really soft alloy (of which I think copper is one element).
I haven't tried any other manufacturer's tips to see if they can be retrofitted, but that may be an option. I've had this soldering station for about 12 years and it's still going strong. I have had to replace the pencil part once.
OH!!! File the tip when it's COLD!
My Duratech Soldering Station
It's like I don't even want to finish this project...
Carving out a signature style with the wrong tools, looking to experiment with "Easy Inlay" crystal calcite.
https://i.imgur.com/w3D4J95.jpg
This is either going to end up awesome, or a catastrophe. I don't think there is middle ground.
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A catawseometrophe?
I can only hope.
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" looking to experiment with "Easy Inlay" crystal calcite."
Lol, I also checked out the "easy inlay" crystals at Timbecon and came away with some gold foil for a future guitar project. Also interested to add flair to my wood turning.
I will also try putting my logo onto a circular mat of white calcite crystals.
I hope it goes well Dozy!
I was pretty keen on the other versions, but $35 for 2g was a hard sell, so I went for the crystal instead for now.
Edit: Not a recreational drug deal ^
Watching this with interest. I didn’t realise there were inlay products available to do this. I’ve got an upcoming trip to timbercon so I’ll check that out. Good signature design and placement.
Thanks Mark
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So far so good. This is where it's at after two wipes of poly brew:
https://i.imgur.com/D3ulaFA.jpg
Lessons learnt so far:
- Apply before finishing (duh), because you need to sand back the CA. I had to sand back the poly and stain and do it again.
- Calcite crystal is actually crystal, not white, so the inside of the groove is the colour that will push through. Consider painting the groove first, and/or apparently you can stain the crystals.
- Scraping the stain off the inlay is fairly tedious.
Other progress shots:
https://i.imgur.com/g2OGBLr.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Px6a0m8.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/KefSjjH.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Z1mVGrl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/3s7t2vp.jpg
What a cool idea! looks great
Thanks dozy. Looks good.
Did you put some crystal in the poly? I see some sparkle in the black...
Also, that encourages me have a go some time.
I'm not sure I have what it takes to do traditional inlay work, but this might be within my skillset (and temperament).
Looks good Dozy.
I tried a circular inlay of gold foil which looks quite good.
Also tried some white soapstone (engineers chalk purchased from Total tools (for $1.50) (Supacheap Auto also has some!))) - easily crushed it up with a hammer, laid it into the hollow, set with CA glue, sanded etc. It is opaque so may be another option for you. Possibly would still need to paint the inlay track as the shallow edges may come through the CA glue.
Putting some poly over them now.
Looks good to me. You can stain first if you lay on enough coats of poly that you don’t sand through to wood. Then you can start laying the coats on all over again. I tested this with my glitter inlay experiments.
Possibly. I'd need a lot more control over the CA flow to keep the build-up down, or at least some way wick off the excess before it hardens. The thin stuff wants to spread very quickly, which is great in some ways.
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Go to a hobby shop and get some nozzles made just for this purpose. There are a couple different types.Quote:
Possibly. I'd need a lot more control over the CA flow to keep the build-up down, or at least some way wick off the excess before it hardens. The thin stuff wants to spread very quickly, which is great in some ways.
One is a length of wee tiny tubing that is inserted into a separate nozzle that is then fitted onto the CA bottle. Another is a one-piece tubing that is tapered and fits of the tip of the CA bottle.
I prefer the first kind as I've had trouble with the second kind not fitting the tip properly and splitting.
These are the ones I like: ZAP
I happen to use the Zap brand CA, so they fit perfectly.
Oh, and I flush the tips with acetone after using them and can get many many uses out of one. (just reaffirming my tight-arsed-ness)
Good tip.
Edit: pun not intended, but I'll take it.
Another "tip", is if you're using "thin" CA, try using a higher viscosity one. Maybe a medium.
It should still seep into the spaces between the crystals but have less spill and easier to control the flow.
At least that's what I have found with applying glue to fret slots.
While I wait for that, I'm looking at wiring this thing up.
The kit came with a 3-way switch, and humbuckers with hot and ground wires only. However, I bought Entwistle Dark Stars for this, which are wired for coil splitting.
So, options I'm thinking of:
- I don't use the coil-splitting option, or
- I don't use the Dark Stars for this, or
- I replace the tone pot with a push-pull pot, or
- I acquire a 5-way switch.
I'm not too fussed about having a broad range of pick-up options, but I'm also not sure if it's really a waste of a good pickup options by not coil-splitting. And I also don't want to dick around too much with this (I'm not at that level of wiring competence yet).
Advice welcome.
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There's also barely room for the 3-way switch as it is, but probably plenty of room for a push-pull pot.
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But then, a simple toggle-switch and volume pot approach is exactly what I'm intending for at least one of my scratch projects (ala Joe Duplantier), so maybe I should just rip the band-aid off and not worry about coil-switching at all.
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Thank you for watching my Ted talk.
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DPDT on/on/on Miniswitch perhaps? I have used these to good effect where space is tight. And also where I can't be @rsed fiddling a slot for a standard 3 or 5 way switch. Which is most of the time.
Edit: Just ignore me, I typed up before I'd read the dilemma post on the previous page. That said, if you fit the P/P pot, the Miniswitch option will still work.
Have a bash at the ENtwistles I have some of their X3's in the Original FrankenWashie guitar and they are quite nice. Not sure if the are wildly different from the Dark Stars but they are great sounding nonetheless.
Thanks Frankie. Yep, I think the only decision now is whether to add the P/P pot or not.
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I'd look at getting and fitting a VLX53 5-way switch. It's the switch Ibanez use on their HH guitars which makes getting various pickup combinations with splits very easy.
https://www.realparts.com.au/vlx53-h...er-switch.html
34mm deep though, so check you have the depth.
This is the standard Ibanez HH configuration selection. A bit different from some, one could say rock biased with no individual neck or bridge single coil selection.
Attachment 41087
If you also managed to find an Ibanez 5-way switch cover from an S-series, you could open the slot up and have the switch mounted on the top of the body which will give you plenty of depth. Try eBay. Here's an example of what you'd be looking for: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203462347002
Looks better when installed.
I really like the S-series look.
Attachment 41088
That's true. I just noticed it was on my main reference model. https://www.ibanez.com/usa/products/...21q_00_02.html
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Looking at the control rout, it might be a very tight fit. The two normal mounting holes are already quite near the edges of the cavity, and the fixing holes for the cover would sit outside of those holes. Cavity enlarging may be required. Anyway, it’s a possible option for consideration.
Yep, I do like that idea, but I don't feel confident I can make it work, even if I could acquire the switch cover. I'm sure I could also fashion one on my own, but it would still be tricky behind the scenes.
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I think I'm giving up on this headstock. Somewhere along the way too much damage has been done, and there is no hiding it.
https://i.imgur.com/CKaVuMc.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/f6e27az.jpg
I'm happy enough with the inlay exercise, so all is not lost. I'll try to salvage the neck for parts in some way. Or I suppose I could even have a crack at a scarfenstein project sometime.
I'll probably replace it with an ST-style neck, and adjust it for a narrower speed neck feel.
Mind you, I suppose I should entertain the idea of spraying the headstock with some SCA black...
Hmm...
I'd certainly get the spray out. It's far from beyond redemption.
But I'm so tired of it, Simon. So tired...
https://media.giphy.com/media/B4ORVnBvJCVvq/giphy.gif
There's nothing can't be fixed. I understand wanting to just bin something sometimes though =)
A brief power nap and you'll have a glossy black headstock in no time.
Had a nap. Feeling better now.
https://i.imgur.com/zzWW3uR.jpg
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