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I am still waiting patiently for the Dingotone intensifying coats to dry on the body. I think I am going to skip the Dingotone finishing coats and finish it with Tru-oil.
It was a nice day today so I hung it outside for a few hours to help things along. Had to take it back inside when the kids jumped in the pool though! Selfish brats!! ;)
https://i.imgur.com/Muo1jT6.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/XmxMfqK.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/RoL17IC.jpg
Looking great.
A few more TO coats on front of headstock will help to flatten and hide decal edges. As for applying over binding just beware that initially it will have an off white appearance that will go creamy yellow quite quickly, in say 12 to 24 months if not sooner.
If unsure of using DT clear top coats I would recommend using TO even though it will add a bit more depth to the red and maybe go a bit darker as it naturally ages.
Cheers Waz
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Thanks Waz.
I'm going to go with the tru-oil - maybe the yellowing will give it a vintage look?
Yesterday I peeled off the tape that was covering the binding. In some places it did its job really well, less so in other spots.
https://i.imgur.com/AXb5jgB.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/T1Hsd5R.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ORMvajb.jpg
Gave it another few hours in the warm sun:
https://i.imgur.com/RIMneXD.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/hxkjED0.jpg
I then went on to scrape the binding which wasn't as easy as it looked in the YouTube videos - but I suppose the guy at the PRS factory does have 12 years of experience!
This has been the most nerve-racking part of the build so far. It came out okay but there are some bits I wasn't 100% happy with. There was 1 area (on the horn) where the stain had soaked deeply into the binding, I had to stop scraping or I worried that there would be no binding left. So it will remain with the stain attached.
I do plan to build other guitars (if this one works out okay) but I'll definitely avoid binding if I can.
Anyway, here's how it turned out:
https://i.imgur.com/LGT4G4q.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/k4CI4De.jpg
I do need to go over it again to touch up some little bits. I stopped yesterday as I was starting to lose patience.
Then, give the body a few more days to dry before starting the tru-oil process.
Tru Oil is definitely the way to go. I did the same with my first build. Actually I skipped the intensifying cost as well.
Hi Graham, the surface looks like it could do with a light sand and I would urge you not to as that could risk damaging the coats already laid down.
The best part of using TO is that it eventually will flatten out the surface the more coats you apply, almost like those epoxy resin videos you see on You Tube but not as fast as it takes many, many more thin coats to get there whereas epoxy is just one thick very fast curing nasty toxic mix.
I share your pain with the binding and avoid it wherever possible. So much prep required to try and minimise stain bleed which seems to happen most of the time.
Thank you, That was actually going to be my next question. I was wondering whether to give a gentle run over with a high grit or (dare I say it) 0000 steel wool. Now I will leave it and let the TO do the work.
Never, ever, ever use 0000 steel wool for anything other than the back of a neck, if you must, but make sure you have a strong magnet on standby to sweep over and pick up all the miniscule fragments.
It was through using said product that caused me so much grief on my 2 DT builds. Evil stuff and they should re-write the DT finish instructions to remove any reference to 0000 steel wool as it seems to stick into the underlying coats only to be discovered after applying the next coat or 2. Pretty daunting for a Newbie who had just used up most of the expensive DT with not much left on hand to repair damage caused by dreaded steel wool.
The slightly rough surface takes me down another rabbit hole where I strongly discourage sanding much past 180 grit as that still allows the timber to absorb stain, where 240 has nearly gone too close to polishing and thus repelling stain. This is where the TO layers flatten things out through multiple coats and wet sanding sessions, and once you get to that glassy stage it can almost take on a 3D appearance too.
Hi Graham,
Maybe this is what your guitar might look like in a few years.
You can see the TO ageing effect more on the maple fretboard but overall this one didn't darken up too much over past 4 years or so.
Cheers Waz https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...4e0b9c1d4e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...f8a87a8958.jpg
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Should mention both shots taken same day......just shows how much difference direct sunlight can affect a shot.
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Thank Waz,
The Bass looks really nice. I wouldn't be unhappy with that finish.
I've spent the last few weeks applying Tru-oil, 1 coat a day, 2 coats on Saturdays and Sundays when I'm home.
It has really deepened the colour of the body. This is how it's looking after 13 coats and some light wet-sanding in between (every 3-4 coats). I plan to go to at least 20 coats, depending on how things look and feel.
https://i.imgur.com/jkuhcT6.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/nnWwvuQ.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/n4fTFlq.jpg
The neck is a bit further ahead. After using the Dingotone colourless finish, I have applied 25 coats of Tru-oil. Again, with wet-sanding up through the grades up to 2000grit. Then a rub with the micro-mesh pads (https://www.thesandpaperman.com.au/m...arist-kit.html) and a few coats of 50/50 turps/TO mix. It is feeling and looking great. Maybe another sand with the micro mesh, one more coat and a final polish to finish off.
https://i.imgur.com/e8sPcG0.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/3JGLaTD.jpg
That's coming together very nicely.
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Neck looks to be almost done.
Body could do with applying TO (just a couple of drops of turps) with probably 1500 or 2000 grit Wet & Dry.
Hi Waz,Quote:
Originally Posted by wazkelly
Do you mean applying the TO/turp mix with the sandpaper
or
Wet sanding between coats?
I have read many different methods of applying TO.
Cheers,
Graham
Apply with sandpaper for 2 coats and then check where things are at.
It will help to wet sand as you apply the TO and thus speed up the process.
Awesome, Thank you.
Remember, only a couple of drop of turps. Doesn't need to be 50:50
That’s looking slick Graham, great job!
I can see some benefit in Waz's suggestion as I have done a similar thing myself.
However I have only done this on bare timber (mostly mahogany) with coarser paper as way of grain filling. It's known as the slurry method where the finish material (Tru Oil, shellac) gets mixed together with the wood dust, creating a slurry which is deposited into the grain pores. Then level sanded and repeated as necessary. What Waz has said is using the same principle, except the slurry is going to be Tru Oil dust mixed with liquid Tru Oil which I guess can work too. Though IMO it's a bit like grain filling by spraying more paint or clear coat.
As for wet sanding (w/ water) between coats, with Tru Oil or any finish, I don't see any advantage to it.
While wet sanding does level the surface, it also has more of a polishing effect. Finishes like Tru Oil, poly, shellac do have some level of chemical bonding due to small amounts of solvent, but there is more of a mechanical bond between coats.
Light dry sanding between coats to remove dust nibs or debris is better because it also abrades the surface which aids the mechanical bonding (adhesion) of subsequent coats. I don't sand between every coat with hand-applied finishes like TO and poly, but I will do it every 3-4 or 6-8 depending on how it's building or feeling.
Any wet sanding is done after the final coat has fully dried.
As with all things YMMV.
EDIT:
And I forgot to say that it is looking good Graham!
40 or more coats on this one that came up like glass using method mentioned before.
Don't mean to be picky but surface of the Iceman still showed grain pores and they will not easily go away through dry sanding which mostly clogs the sandpaper.
Wouldn't offer suggestions that i haven't already done and that have been proven to work, something that has been refined over 7 builds and more than 200 coats applied.
Everyone is entitled to an opinion, mine is coming from many hours of experience.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...8fc6b28f45.jpg
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FWIW, I never said your method wouldn't or doesn't work. And this ain't my first rodeo either.
You might want to re-read my previous post. I wasn't trying to be critical about what you said. My points were more about wet sanding with water between coats, which I do disagree with.
Considering what stage the project is now, your method is sound advice. As a matter of fact I paralleled our methods of sanding with Tru Oil with the exception when. I do mine earlier as a method of grain filling, you do it later. Different paths to the same destination.
Lastly, to quote Graham from an exchange I had with him earlier in this thread regarding grain filling: (page 3, post #24)
Quote:
Thank you for the info and advice. I'm not too worried about a super glossy result. For the 1st build I'm keeping things as simple as possible.
Cheers,
Graham
Like most things in life, an open mind will take you many places and can offer up so many more options to explore or take advantage of.
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So... today I finished the neck. I gave it a final few thin coats of TO last week with a light rub with the micro mesh pads in between. Left it to cure and fully harden for at least a week.
Today I gave it a polish with Meguiars ultimate compound then Scratch X. It came up lovely. Got the TO marks off the fretboard using Shellite and finished that off by rubbing in some of the Gibson fretboard conditioner (the 20 year old stuff, see earlier posts).
I'm happy with it and will put the tuning pegs on later this weekend.
The body still needs a few more coats of TO. I've been really busy and didn't get to it this week. Hopefully be ready in the next few weeks. It's looking good though.
Here's the neck:
https://i.imgur.com/oc8OjR1.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/oiqht8V.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/1ky6kzV.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/sYH3j16.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/eF5I6TE.jpg
Looking good. Nice and shiny!
Like it a lot.
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That’s a lovely job Graham!
and the tuner heads are on...
https://i.imgur.com/Son1jCr.jpg
That looks great, Graham!
If it feels as good as it looks you're totally winning!
Satin poly is my new fave for feel on a neck, but I do like the feel of Tru Oil a lot. For some reason it seems to feel different (better) than gloss poly. Can't explain why really...
Today I gave the body a polish. Started with Meguiars Ultimate compound and followed up with Scratch X (There were around 30 coats of Tru-Oil to end up with on the body and after the final coat I left it for a few days before polishing).
After polishing I applied the copper shielding tape. There wasn't enough to do the cavity covers as well so I'll have to order some more.
Anyway, here's how it's looking:
https://i.imgur.com/uOaIhR4.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/5CYG9ig.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/0TL6PcE.jpg
This week I plan to get on with the soldering while I wait for more copper tape.
Looking good.
Nice colour dude! That’s rocking along mate!
It's getting there. Hopefully...not too long now!!Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankenWashie
Thank you!Quote:
Originally Posted by Trevor Davies
Getting a nice gloss there Graham. The extra time for more coats is always worth it IMO.
FWIW, there won't be a significant advantage to shielding the pickup mounting rings. There is very little area on the underside and with open coil pickups, it's like having a big hole in your roof.
The guitar is coming along nicely, but I still can't get passed that very phallic-looking lower horn though :o.
You gotta be happy with how that looks. Well worth the effort.
Cheers Waz
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Yip. I'm really glad I was patient with the project. Pitbull are sending out more shielding tape, I only need it for the plastic cavity covers on the back of the guitar. Would you shield the drilled hole for the input socket too?Quote:
Originally Posted by McCreed
Yes I had a lot of fun polishing that horn!! :D
Yes, I'm really happy with how it turned out. Started the wiring last night. I had already soldered the pots so just need to join it all together.Quote:
Originally Posted by wazkelly
Mounting the pickups is the next daunting task. I'm worried about drilling into my lovely finished body and getting it wrong. Any tips? They just don't seem to be lining up with where the neck will be.
That's looking really good.
The Tru Oil on the neck seems to have given the binding a slightly aged look, which I think works well with this guitar.
Jus tone thing - have you drilled a ground wire hole from the bridge pup cavity to a bridge post hole? I can't see one in your shield tape, though you may have just covered it up.
My bad!!! I misunderstood and for some reason thought you meant pickup "covers"! Pay no attention to me... :pQuote:
I only need it for the plastic cavity covers on the back of the guitar. Would you shield the drilled hole for the input socket too?
You can shield the output hole, but you have to be careful that none of the signal points of the jack makes contact with the tape and creates a short. There typically isn't a whole heck of a lot of room in the holes so it can be hard to do a neat thorough job in there as well.
I usually skip shielding in there and will use a bit of shielded coaxial wire, or if 2 single core wires, I will twist them into a helix pattern and heat shrink it. Either will provide adequate shielding properties.
Thank you.Quote:
Originally Posted by jonwhitear
Yes, there is a hole drilled in to the bridge post hole. Luckily this was already done for me. The other end comes out in the Pot cavity, not the bridge pup cavity - that's maybe why you can't see it.